One other thought-you applied pressurized air to the map and it made the truck run well. That was actually a smart troubleshooting trick. You told the truck that it was at an elevation way below sea level! So the PCM thinks that it has lots of air to work with an fuels the engine accordingly. I think if you look at the PCM you will find a chip plugged in. Remove that chip and you will fix your problem. That chip may be modifying the Map sensor reading. And if it is malfunctioning, it may be causing the engine problems.

 

Long shot, fixed a 6.0 like this.

Take a BARO reading with AE or Torque Pro. Make sure is it correct for your elevation.

The 6.0 has a separate plugin under the driver's dash. Replaced it and the truck was much improved.

Is BARO built into the board on the 7.3? I don't know, but you can still test the value to see if you need to mess around with it.

 

It was recently posted here that on some trucks it's a stand alone sensor but they switched it to a PCM function. My guess would be that the change came in '99.5 or '00 like many other changes.

 

On this particular 6.0 it was a separate module, maybe 1"x2" under the steering column area, just above the pedals. Regular harness connector. Unplugged one from a donor truck, swapped it in, and viola!

Since pretty much all psi measurements subtract BARO, it can be a good difference.

In any case, trying to offer suggestions not tried yet

 

Ok fellas, so I went ***** deep today in hopes of some sort of clue to help me. I swapped the turbo and spider from my truck to hers. No change, then I tuned both to stock, swapped the pcms , her truck was being a bitch about it and PATS was keeping me from getting it started. I tried doing some reset action with the key which did nothing. After hollering at it for a while I put hers back in. Her pcm had no chip that I could locate, I pulled the plastic cover off the access port and it looks like mine, didn't see any chip. While it was out I took it apart and did an inspection of the pcm plug, male and female as well as pcm internals. Nothing was corroded , dirty or damaged.
With all my test drives back and forth I did notice something but can't put my finger on it.
Coming from a complete stop, I let off the brake and blip the throttle and it is very responsive. When I roll into the throttle somewhat slow the flat spot seems less noticeable . All things being equal , if I stomp it to the floor it slowly builds up and has a flat spot from the start until around 2700rpm , then all of a sudden it seems normal again.
Thanks for all the replies guys!

 

Tps maybe? Unfortunately ours are different so I can't swap those

 

u can check the TPS with Tuque Pro

 

Steve, ok, you have been a member of this forum for years. I am pretty sure that you have seen the advice given to others that they should get some kind of scanner (Torque Pro, etc) so that meaningful info is available for analysis.

So here you go - get a scanner and quit moving parts around! It doesn't save you any time, frustration or money to unbolt stuff. We would love to help, but you gotta help us first! Yes it does take some time to understand how to use the scanner, but way less time than what you are doing.
Please don't take this personally, but do take the advice.

 

Sounds like we may have a similar problem as the thread I started here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...y-closing.html

Interested to see if we find a similar solution.

Good luck!

 

Following to see what you find.

 

Clean your EGR valve, AND(!), VACUUM its housing. Do NOT(!) Let those loose deposits to get sucked into the engine and stuck open a valve!

Before taking the EGR valve out of the engine, BUY an O-Ring kit for EGR valve, at a Ford dealership. It costs ~$10.00...

As you are cleaning the EGR valve, make sure you open it and clean the inner round edges - https://youtu.be/TCFziVFkOt4

 

Wrong forum...

 

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Where is the EGR valved on my truck? I can't find it.

 

Between the VGT and spark plugs