Hey guys!
I have just about replaced everything except the booster, the master cylinder and the abs module. The pedal is still spongy. The lines have been manually bled (except for the abs bleeder) and im not sure what to do from here. There is no squishy sound when depressing the brakes. So, i don't think the booster is bad. There is no obvious signs of the seals under the the master cylinder having gone bad. Atleast there aren't any signs of anything new thats developed.
Also, i have another issue that's recently developed. After prolonged driving in this Arizona heat, a rough idle spurraticly develops that leads to popping, spitting, sputtering and finally stalling. Usually while in traffic. The truck won't run uless it sits for upwards of 45 minutes. I've replaced the ignition control module and even went so far as to replace the rotor and cap. Suggestions? Solutions?

 

Your missing, popping, stalling is more than likely the PIP in the distributor. I have a 1996 F350 w/ a 7.5 and had that happen. Bought a new distributor from NAPA I think, went on a road trip and after a couple hundred miles it did it again! I bought a spare old distributor from eBay and took it apart and bought 2 Ford PIPs and replaced both of them, installed the one back in truck, and put the other one behind my back seat. that was 3 years ago!!

 

You need to bleed the RABS hydraulic control module as a start. It may not be the root cause, but it needs to be bled to eliminate that from the equation.

 

I bled the ABS yesterday and followed up by rebleeding all 4 wheels. Very little change, if any at all.

 

"In traffic" gives me reasonable cause to think your cooling system is partly at issue. Phoenix traffic is different from Kingman traffic is different from Flagstaff traffic is different from Winslow traffic --- so amount of stopping/starting, rush hour creeping through exhaust fumes and altitude all play a part with wildly different variables added to the mix. Water temp sensor could be bad and not sending the right signal. Cool down before restart could be weak starter with added drag caused by heat in the engine bay. A 302 I owned had a bad heat shield on the manifold...could have been my 460...been a few years. Heat in the engine compartment could be preheating fuel in your lines creating vapor lock (maybe...long shot on that I think).

Not saying what others suggest is wrong. Just other possibilities.

 

any codes with this rough idle/stall?

 

I'm betting your brake issue is vacuum related, get it running right then see what it does.

 

Is the brake pedal firm with the engine off? Does the pedal drop any in this condition?

If it's soft/dropping with the engine off the problem is hydraulic.