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  #16  
Old 05-25-2017, 04:01 PM
tjmike tjmike is offline
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Check the power steering hose. See if it's rubbing on the shock tower AND if its rubbing on one of the bolts above the power steering gear. I put wire loom over the hose with hopes that it will prevent the hose from wearing through at those points.
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  #17  
Old 05-25-2017, 05:27 PM
Walleye Hunter Walleye Hunter is offline
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Whatever it is that you have that can get you connected to the help line here, members broke down on the road get special attention.

Oh, and I recommend taking a bottle of Cap'n along for when all else fails.
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  #18  
Old 05-25-2017, 10:59 PM
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CousinCarl CousinCarl is offline
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Wow! Talk about bad luck being good luck. On my way home from work this evening to finish packing and loading the truck for tomorrow, I heard this clunking noise. Turned out to be my rear passenger caliper. Glad it let me know today before the long trip because one of the mounting bolts went missing. The other was loose. 2 oreillys didn't have them in stock. AZ had a GM caliper bolt that was the right size. Slapped that puppy on and tightened all mounting bolts all the way around. Read on here torque specs is a whopping 293ft lb. Only having a 150lb torque wrench I sunk my whole weight into it and then some. Hoping they're good for the trip. May stop by a shop before leaving to have them torque them down for me to have the peace of mind.

one other thing to add before a trip... check state gun laws before traveling with firearms happy trails

now onto packing...
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  #19  
Old 05-26-2017, 08:09 AM
Walleye Hunter Walleye Hunter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CousinCarl View Post
Wow! Talk about bad luck being good luck. On my way home from work this evening to finish packing and loading the truck for tomorrow, I heard this clunking noise. Turned out to be my rear passenger caliper. Glad it let me know today before the long trip because one of the mounting bolts went missing. The other was loose. 2 oreillys didn't have them in stock. AZ had a GM caliper bolt that was the right size. Slapped that puppy on and tightened all mounting bolts all the way around. Read on here torque specs is a whopping 293ft lb. Only having a 150lb torque wrench I sunk my whole weight into it and then some. Hoping they're good for the trip. May stop by a shop before leaving to have them torque them down for me to have the peace of mind.

one other thing to add before a trip... check state gun laws before traveling with firearms happy trails

now onto packing...
I never, ever torque bolts like that, I just clean their threads so the bolt goes in like it should, tighten it and give one like that about 1/2 turn after it hits bottom. That is not a high vibration area where it would have worked loose, someone didn't tighten them when they did that job last.
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  #20  
Old 05-26-2017, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter View Post
I never, ever torque bolts like that, I just clean their threads so the bolt goes in like it should, tighten it and give one like that about 1/2 turn after it hits bottom. That is not a high vibration area where it would have worked loose, someone didn't tighten them when they did that job last.
I never did either in the past and have had the calipers off countless times for brake pads without issue... I dunno, I'm dumbfounded. I do all my own work and the last time I was in there on this truck was when I did the rear axle seals last December, so this one's on me. Can't blame anyone else. I don't know, I guess I didn't clean them, got too gun shy torquing them down that tight, or maybe I didn't have the stamina after buttoning it all back up after the grueling seal job. But dang, that's embarrassing . Replaced both bolts last night with new that had pre-applied red loctite, so should be good to go now.
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  #21  
Old 05-26-2017, 10:22 AM
Walleye Hunter Walleye Hunter is offline
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I've been known to get distracted from a job or two...or ummm many. It's easy, put bolts in but not too tight until last round or I'll have to loosen them up to get the others started in their holes, oops, forget to go back...it happens. One time after working on the front end of my car the garage I took it to for inspection was mad at me for forgetting to tighten something up in there. Hey, I'm sure they've done that a time or two themselves.
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  #22  
Old 05-27-2017, 09:24 PM
bigreentruck bigreentruck is offline
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So you saying to Red Loctite the calipers?
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  #23  
Old 05-28-2017, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CousinCarl View Post
.... Read on here torque specs is a whopping 293ft lb.
What size bolt is it? 3/4" SAE Grade 8 bolts get close to that spec. I didn't think our bolts were that thick ...
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  #24  
Old 05-28-2017, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by SaintITC View Post
What size bolt is it? 3/4" SAE Grade 8 bolts get close to that spec. I didn't think our bolts were that thick ...
ya that 18mm one. Just went back and looked... It's 128ft-lb. 293 is for 450+ ... oops. Will retorque asap.

loctite I don't think is necessary. It just came on the new bolts already but I'm reading the bolts coming loose isn't uncommon so others have suggested it as good measure. Think I'll just pay better attn to specs on these here on out.
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  #25  
Old 05-28-2017, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by WoodHacker View Post
I'm planning a family (daughter, myself & dog) trip from Washington State to Ohio and debating which truck to drive. Either way, I plan to pull a small trailer loaded with small chainsaw carvings in hopes of selling a few to pay my trip expenses.

For reasons of comfort and space, I'd prefer to take my F-250 rather than my Toyota Tacoma. The Tacoma has a newly rebuilt engine and has always been a great traveler but, in spite of it's 4 cylinder engine, it doesn't get better enough mileage to cancel out the benefits of a larger truck...

So, with 260k miles on my F-250, what should I check, replace, or carry along to ensure my trip isn't cut short with expensive repairs?

Naturally filters and belts are on my do/check list. Was also thinking of the cam potion sensor since I've never replaced that. Brakes need bleeding.

What else OR should I not depend on my 7.3 for a 5,000 trip?
BRAKE ISSUES FIRST - Sounds like you need to do a four wheel inspection for wear and leaks.

As for the rest, carry a spare serpentine belt, OEM CPS, coolant and oil. Of course, all the tools to replace these.

As good to go as I have ever been, though as a Ford owner I carry my full hand tool set everywhere!
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  #26  
Old 05-28-2017, 09:50 PM
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BTW - If you cannot depend on a Superduty to run 5000 miles with a moderate load, you haven't been doing proper maintenance.

I could hook my four horse up in the morning and run to hell and back with confidence that the horses would require attention before the truck or trailer!
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  #27  
Old 05-28-2017, 10:18 PM
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now your talking.. took the words right out my mouth. proper maintenance is a all the security you need. run um hard and take care of um..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Colorado Horseman View Post
BTW - If you cannot depend on a Superduty to run 5000 miles with a moderate load, you haven't been doing proper maintenance.

I could hook my four horse up in the morning and run to hell and back with confidence that the horses would require attention before the truck or trailer!
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  #28  
Old 05-29-2017, 09:06 AM
SaintITC SaintITC is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CousinCarl View Post
ya that 18mm one. Just went back and looked... It's 128ft-lb. 293 is for 450+ ...
Bolt torque doesn't change with application, it's solely dependent upon the bolt diameter and material, and the material to which it's attached. That 128 number is far too low for that size, unless it's an ungraded bolt, which I doubt for that particular application. SAE / Metric equivalents are Grade 5 / Class 8.8, Grade 8 / Class 10.9, Grade 9 / Class 12.9.

An 8.8 M18 is around 220 ft-lb, while a 10.9 M18 is 320 ft-lb., dry. If the bolt is lubed with oil or an antiseize or liquid Loctite, the torque value is a bit lower, 170 and 238 resp. If a higher clamping force is required for high HP mods, then you'd need to switch to a stronger bolt, such as 12.9, which is 370 dry and 280 wet.
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  #29  
Old 05-29-2017, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaintITC View Post
Bolt torque doesn't change with application, it's solely dependent upon the bolt diameter and material, and the material to which it's attached. That 128 number is far too low for that size, unless it's an ungraded bolt, which I doubt for that particular application. SAE / Metric equivalents are Grade 5 / Class 8.8, Grade 8 / Class 10.9, Grade 9 / Class 12.9.

An 8.8 M18 is around 220 ft-lb, while a 10.9 M18 is 320 ft-lb., dry. If the bolt is lubed with oil or an antiseize or liquid Loctite, the torque value is a bit lower, 170 and 238 resp. If a higher clamping force is required for high HP mods, then you'd need to switch to a stronger bolt, such as 12.9, which is 370 dry and 280 wet.
this was my reference https://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_149607034574514&key=d6a769d d7a35593518c5c56785914b9d&libId=j3a9mvru01000azm00 0MAbdgg3ofb&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ford-trucks.com%2Fforums%2F1078829-rear-caliper-bracket-bolts-need-part-help.html&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fww2.justanswer.com% 2Fuploads%2Fs420%2F2009-09-29_184117_00_F350_rear_anchor_plate.pdf&ref=https% 3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F&title=Rear%20caliper%20B RACKET%20bolts%2C%20need%20part%20%23%2C%20HELP!%2 0-%20Ford%20Truck%20Enthusiasts%20Forums&txt=http%3A %2F%2Fww2.justanswer.com%2Fuploads%2Fs4...chor_pla te.pdf

it's a 10.9 bolt. So you're saying 320 not 128 ft lb. ?
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  #30  
Old 05-29-2017, 12:26 PM
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Another thought, when you say M18, are you referring to the bolt thread diameter, and not the wrench size? An M18 has a 27mm wrench size - or thereabouts if it's a flangehead. An M12 hex has a 19mm wrench, and a flangehead is an 18mm wrench, both with a 130 ft-lb spec for Class 10.9. I looked up the torque spec for the anchor plate bolts, and found varying references for different models, but no listed bolt size.

If it's a real Class 10.9 M18 bolt, and it's being threaded into real steel, then yes, it should handle that torque spec when the threads are clean and dry, on both the bolt and the hole. Since you said you're using a GM bolt, it's possible that bolt is stronger (Class 10.9) than the original Ford bolt, so I'd go with the Ford spec, it's possible the part it's being bolted into isn't rated for that torque.
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