90 f150 lariat losing break pressure
#16
05-26-2017, 05:35 AM
If you have the right kit, those fittings are tight. I've always made my own set with brake tubing and the right fittings, making them long enough to be fully submerged in the reservoir. I would never use anything to perfect the seal of the plugs past some silicone brake assembly lube. Any other grease may not be compatible with a brake system, causing who-knows-what kind of havoc.
The brake MC needs to be bled carefully, not going all gangbusters on it. Also, I've seen this solid plug method but I have to say, it's just like bleeding the system with the bleeder fittings closed. Nothing is happening because there is no place for the fluid & air to move to as it is trapped by the plugs.
I will point out that in today's world, probably about four in ten new MC's off the shelf will be bad. Poor rebuilding practices which includes a splash of paint and a new reservoir before boxing an otherwise defective MC for sale. Even new MC's on the shelf are subject to a higher failure rate than I would like to see.
One thing that most people overlook is the clearance from the MC piston to the actuating rod. If the MC piston cannot return fully to the unactuated position, you will never get the system to bleed properly. Piston depth between new and old MC's should be checked and the rod tip adjusted accordingly.
Alright, I'll put away my shop instructor's smock and clipboard now. Back to your regularly scheduled thread in progress.
The brake MC needs to be bled carefully, not going all gangbusters on it. Also, I've seen this solid plug method but I have to say, it's just like bleeding the system with the bleeder fittings closed. Nothing is happening because there is no place for the fluid & air to move to as it is trapped by the plugs.
I will point out that in today's world, probably about four in ten new MC's off the shelf will be bad. Poor rebuilding practices which includes a splash of paint and a new reservoir before boxing an otherwise defective MC for sale. Even new MC's on the shelf are subject to a higher failure rate than I would like to see.
One thing that most people overlook is the clearance from the MC piston to the actuating rod. If the MC piston cannot return fully to the unactuated position, you will never get the system to bleed properly. Piston depth between new and old MC's should be checked and the rod tip adjusted accordingly.
Alright, I'll put away my shop instructor's smock and clipboard now. Back to your regularly scheduled thread in progress.
#17
05-26-2017, 09:40 AM
I found an 18" section of brake tubing that already had the right fittings to fit the MC. I cut it in half and used my tubing bender to give the tubes an arc. There was no leakage, even only finger tight. left them in place until after the MC was mounted.
I had a 1973 IHC 1010 pickall at the time. The MC went out so I ended up going through five MC's before I found one that wasn't bad right out of the box. First three from NAPA, fourth one from Autozone, last one (the good one) from a local concern, Allied Auto Parts. None of my MC's came with a bleeder kit and the kits on the wall had about 3" of tubing per port. They also had only one fitting per size. That might be common on new cars but an old pickall is not that way - both ports the same thread.
I had a 1973 IHC 1010 pickall at the time. The MC went out so I ended up going through five MC's before I found one that wasn't bad right out of the box. First three from NAPA, fourth one from Autozone, last one (the good one) from a local concern, Allied Auto Parts. None of my MC's came with a bleeder kit and the kits on the wall had about 3" of tubing per port. They also had only one fitting per size. That might be common on new cars but an old pickall is not that way - both ports the same thread.
#18
05-26-2017, 09:42 AM
Lead Driver
#19
05-26-2017, 09:49 AM
I found an 18" section of brake tubing that already had the right fittings to fit the MC. I cut it in half and used my tubing bender to give the tubes an arc. There was no leakage, even only finger tight. left them in place until after the MC was mounted.
I had a 1973 IHC 1010 pickall at the time. The MC went out so I ended up going through five MC's before I found one that wasn't bad right out of the box. First three from NAPA, fourth one from Autozone, last one (the good one) from a local concern, Allied Auto Parts. None of my MC's came with a bleeder kit and the kits on the wall had about 3" of tubing per port. They also had only one fitting per size. That might be common on new cars but an old pickall is not that way - both ports the same thread.
I had a 1973 IHC 1010 pickall at the time. The MC went out so I ended up going through five MC's before I found one that wasn't bad right out of the box. First three from NAPA, fourth one from Autozone, last one (the good one) from a local concern, Allied Auto Parts. None of my MC's came with a bleeder kit and the kits on the wall had about 3" of tubing per port. They also had only one fitting per size. That might be common on new cars but an old pickall is not that way - both ports the same thread.
#21
05-29-2017, 12:10 AM
I use clear tubing meant for fish tanks. It comes in several sizes so I get the size that works for the bleeder fittings. I cut the hose long enough to touch the bottom of a clear jar sitting on the ground that I purposely put a 1/4 pint or so fo brake fluid in. Sure makes it easy to see what I'm getting through the lines.
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