Should not one of the break away wires be hot at all times as long as the trailer battery is connected?

 

Yes, one leg is always hot. It has to be or you would have no protection from it. Fix that first. Don't confuse yourself by trying to deal with too many variables as a time. The break-away has to stop your camper, period. That is its only function if the camper would break free.

Check the function of the meter after you fix that so you know you have a current draw. Checking the break-away is just a voltage check. The voltage on the hot leg should match the voltage of your battery. Make sure there that the power loss to the leg is not something simple like the battery being disconnected or the battery fuse being blown.

I want to add a thought about inexpensive clamp meters. I have had very bad luck with them and do not trust their readings as I have found them to very inaccurate. The Fluke I use cost me right at $300 so it is pricey, but works very well. You do not have to spend that much, but even the meter I tried in the $150 range had a very short life. There is nothing the matter with reading amperage by breaking a lead with more economically priced meters, but I would purchase one with a 20 amp rather than 10 amp range when possible.

Steve

 

You are correct, I need to approach this in baby steps, one step at a time rather than throwing parts at the problem and hoping for a fix.

Yesterday with the meter the SIL had we did not get any reading of power on the wires going from the bread away switch. This morning I went out and did a simple old school probe with a test light. Low and behold, I do have power going to the break away switch. I haven't metered it yet, but I do now know that power is being fed to the switch.

I have ordered a new break away switch which should be here Thursday. I guess I could after taking a reading with the amp gauge wire both leads going to the break away switch and see if it does set the brakes in lock mode? Wouldn't this tell me if the B/A switch is bad?

Again, I do appreciate all of the assistance.

 

just probe for voltage on each side of the switch with the pin pulled. Power both sides switch is good!

 

If you jump the switch wires and the brakes lock up, then the switch is bad. Likely corroded on the inside terminals and is not going to allow enough current to operate the brakes properly.

The test light tells you that there is power available, but the amp meter tells you how MUCH power is available. Big difference in determining what is wrong in your situation.

 

agree, but the probe is faster and 0 volts tells you instantly switch is bad. If there is voltage next concern is amps.

 

Pulled the pin and probed both wires with the light tester....I have power on both wires. Now the question is how much power. My multi gauge is a 10 amp, I will pick up a 20 amp and see what the reading shows.

A little added history on the trailer. Last year I pulled the trailer 3,500 miles plus. The trailer was picked up here in Dallas and taken to Elkhart, IN for some repairs which included replacing both exterior sides as well as other items...non brake related. It was then delivered back to our house by another RV transporter.

A couple of months ago I replaced the suspension bushing upgrading to grease bolts and brass bushings. At this time I noticed that one of the brake wires on the rear passenger side of the trailer was not connected having come loose of the crimp connection. I did replace this connection and reattach/connect the loose wire.

Before this round trip to Elkhart the brakes were working.

 

Just a thought. anytime I have worked on something and then something related doesn't work later I always check first on the last thing I worked on.

Steve

 

My 40ft Haulmark had decent brakes for years(new 1997), but over time they got vague. I ran all new wire from the front to the axles, soldering where all the original scotch lok connections were at under the trailer. The brakes work much better now. Corrosion is a horrible thing.

 

Been there, Done that.

The trailer didn't have brakes before I reattached the loose wire. As for doing the bushing/shackle job we made sure to not allow any brake wires to hang or become stretched while placing the trailer up on jack stands. I also did a close inspection of the wiring connectors and insulation that was visible.

I did notice that Forest River has a current recall on one of their trailer lines due to wire chaffing inside the axles. However this does not include my Wildcat or the model year.

Weather has me in a holding pattern for the next day or so.

 

My 5th wheel is a 2013, but if in the end it takes a complete rewire project as well as new brake/back plate assemblies that's what it will get.

I am sure missing our old 1997 Travel Supreme 40RLTSO, it was built like a rock and weighed as much. But never once gave us a problem.

 

Yes, they are only getting cheaper and cheaper built.

When I picked mine up from the factory in 1997, I hooked to my truck and did a walk around. One tail light was out(already). They pulled it apart and seems one of their butt connectors was not holding. They quickly fixed it and I was on my way. In all the years it has been a good trailer.

One thing that did scare me in the first few years, I found out they did NOT fuse the battery power. I had a short one night, found it while backing in the driveway and saw smoke under the nose. I jerked the wires loose and no real damage. I then installed a fuse inline to the battery and never had another problem.

My comment to anyone about trailers..........."they aren't built by Norm Abrams"

 

RVIA code requires all house batteries be fused within 18" of the battery. Normally there is a fuse right at the batteries. Weird!

Steve

Steve

 

Couple of readings:

Battery Voltage taken at post: 12.91-12.92
Break away switch meter wired inline: 12.81-12.82

Break away switch: 10.03-10.08Amp

Should the Amp reading be higher or is this with in spec?

I assume the next reading should be taken at the point where the brake wire leads exit from under the enclosed belly? Or should I move on to testing at each brake connection?

 

In testing from here forward should I do so by pulling out the break away switch or by having someone activate the manual slide on the trucks trailer brake controller?

Or does it make any difference?