I'm working on the hood of my '54 but not that experienced with body work/ paint. I used an Omni 2K high build primer and blocked it out. There are were a few (high) spots that went through the primer. I reprimered again tonight with the 2k and overall not looking too bad. There are just a couple spots where front/ side emblems have been shaved and holes welded that are still pretty visible. Now I don't think that primer will fill it completely.

Can I use a filler over the 2K primer?
Instead of bondo, I do have some finishing putty. (USC Icing Lite Gold Finishing Glaze) Would this work?

Other issue - I used up the entire quart of primer. Can I use a rattle can filler primer (like duplicolor or rustoleum) over just the couple spots that I need? Or would it be better to re-coat the entire hood? The autobody supply place is not open until Monday and I was looking to paint this weekend.

Thanks!

 

Sorry I cant answer the question of filler or the "icing" (also don't know what that is) over the 2k primer.
I come from the old school filler over bare metal and primer over that. If you see sanding marks after priming I would use "nitro stain" spot putty that I guess is like the "icing" you posted of.


Once done wet sanding the nitro stain you would re-prim the area sand & paint.


Now as for using a different brand of primer or any other products you might start with and run out they say it is best NOT TO MIX.


They also say if you start with brand "A" primer you should stay with all the same brand "A" products thru to the finish.
Now I have used brand "A" primer and brand "B" paint and not had any issues but just wanted you to know what they say.


As for that spry can primers I would not use it best to wait and get the good stuff.
I know you want to get it painted but when you rust is when it goes bad.
Just my .02
Dave ----

 

I was able to get another quart of the same 2k primer.

This is the finishing putty that I had from another project:


I used the finishing putty and sanded. Everything looked good so I put a final coat of primer. As it was drying, I noticed a small bubble develop. (Not in the area of the putty.) I let it dry for 4 or so hours and the bubble was still there. I started block sanding and DISASTER.

The new primer, original paint and original primer started peeling off. The only spots that were really stuck was where I used the finishing putty. Now over $100 of material of the garage floor and have a big mess to fix. What went wrong? I only stripped half the hood but now worried the other half will peel off as easily. Should I just strip the whole hood? This is already turning into an expensive and lengthy hood repair.

 

I saw this in the other post and came over here to see if it was yours.
Sorry to see this happen. Not seeing it in person will be hard to say but I will give my guess.


It look like the 2k was put over that red stuff do you know what it is and who makes it?
Again hard to tell but is it red oxide primer and if so is it lacquer?
Hope not red oxide primer from Rustoleum and if so that could be why the 2k peeled off as they are not compatible with each other.


Was it sanded before the 2k was sprayed on and if so what grit paper was used?
Was it wiped down with a degreaser/dewaxer and given enough time to dry before the 2k was put on?


Seeing how it peeled off I would remove all of it and start over again. Don't want this happening after painting.
Dave ----

 

The nitro stain I was talking about goes over lacquer primer, no sanding before, to fill pits & scratches.

You then send, I wet send it & primer then re prim and sand before painting.
Dave ----

 

The 2k was applied over 1 stage Urethane (hot rod flatz) by the prior owner. I'm not sure what kind of red primer he used under the paint but it appears to have been sprayed (not rattle can). I was just going to repair and repaint it with the same paint. The problem didn't arise until the final primer.

I sanded the painted hood with 220 grit. Then did a few coats of the Omni 2k high build primer. Let dry overnight and then block sanded. Another couple coats of primer, let dry overnight and then block sanded. Used the finishing putty and sanded it. Sprayed a couple final coats of primer. I let it dry for 4 hours and then started sanding.

The 2k that I applied did not separate from the paint. The areas where I used the putty are still stuck.

 

The truck was painted 3 or 4 years ago. Here is a picture I found of it being built. I'm not sure how long it sat in red oxide primer before it was painted.

 

The only thing I can say to do is try and load the hood in something and take it to were you bought the 2k primer to see what they have to say.

Not seeing it in person it is hard to say why it happened and what to do to fix it.
keep us posted on the why & fix.
Dave - - - -

 

Looks like a non-compatibility issue. Check the instructions on the primer. Some have to be topcoated within a certain time or the topcoat won't adhere. A friend found this out the hard way.

 

Guys at the autobody supply store said they think the red is lacquer primer.
Because there wasn't a lot of paint, the solvent in the 2k I was spraying must have went through the paint and softened the previous primer.

 

I stripped the hood to bare metal and sprayed a quart of epoxy primer. Should I sand the epoxy primer before the 2k filler primer? The epoxy did not come out really smooth (ie. orange peel).

 

I don't think it would hurt it to sand and would because it is not smooth.
Also some products like GLR said need to be top coated in a time frame and if not then sanding is needed.


Stripping to bare metal and starting over is the best thing to do.


Now I know why I still use old school products when doing my body work.
You could use lacquer products as a base and use any type paint over it.
I still use lacquer primer and enamel (single stage) with hardner over it.


BTW back in the day before high build primer we made our own.
We would take the Nitro Stain glaze and add it to primer, mix it really good and spray it on the whole car/truck.
Let it set up 2 days or so and using a block we wet sand the whole car/truck, re-prime sand & paint.
Dave ----

 

This stuff said to sand if not topcoated within 72 hours. I just primered today. I'm still within the window, but didn't know if epoxy should be sanded or not. At this point I have too much time and money involved and don't want to screw things up.

 

I'm about to do the same thing:

Primer:

FINISH 1 2K HS Urethane Primer

Putty:


Do you think your putty had anything to do with the problem you encountered? Would you do it again?

 

No, I don't think the finish glaze/ putty contributed to the problem. In fact, where I applied it, the primer was stuck really well! The problem was the solvents in the 2k primer that got down to the lacquer primer that the prior owner used. (It did not help that the prior paint layer was pretty thin.) Hindsight, I would have done it differently. The putty over primer was fine as long as you remember to scuff up the primer a little so it has something to grab to.

This was the finished product before it got pinstriping -