Crank, no start...Bad FICM???
#16
Heck no, no offense taken! I appreciate the advice. My thoughts are if I have real HPO problems (leaks, etc.) and need injectors replaced I'm going to have to concentrate on work and saving money to get the repairs done professionally. In all likelihood, if it goes that route the truck will probably sit all summer - meaning no camping, etc. If its just changing some exterior parts, I can handle that. I can probably handle the internal stuff if I put my mind to it, but it'll take forever and I have plenty of other stuff to worry about.
I have to pull the FICM to get to the IPR, so I'll get a feel for the connectors while I'm doing that.
I have to pull the FICM to get to the IPR, so I'll get a feel for the connectors while I'm doing that.
#17
It sounds like Bismic has you checking all the right things!
To easily rule out (or in - hah!) the FICM, see if you can find someone local with another 6.0. Regardless of model year, any Powerstroke-programmed FICM will start and run any other Powerstroke. Just be sure to install your FICM in their truck and not theirs in yours - FICM's don't kill trucks, but trucks sure do kill FICM's....
As far keeping the FICM healthy during all of this, just be sure to keep a battery charger on the truck during and after all of this cranking. Inadequate supply-side voltages kill these modules and can do so in relatively short order.
Of course, if you continue to not have any luck finding someone local with a 6.0 and want to ship it over to us, we'd be happy to perform a diag on it for you as well.
Hope this helps!
Ed
To easily rule out (or in - hah!) the FICM, see if you can find someone local with another 6.0. Regardless of model year, any Powerstroke-programmed FICM will start and run any other Powerstroke. Just be sure to install your FICM in their truck and not theirs in yours - FICM's don't kill trucks, but trucks sure do kill FICM's....
As far keeping the FICM healthy during all of this, just be sure to keep a battery charger on the truck during and after all of this cranking. Inadequate supply-side voltages kill these modules and can do so in relatively short order.
Of course, if you continue to not have any luck finding someone local with a 6.0 and want to ship it over to us, we'd be happy to perform a diag on it for you as well.
Hope this helps!
Ed
#18
#19
#20
Well, I got a few things done this weekend.
I was finally able to check fuel pressure at the filter. I have 58psi while the pump is running, which then drops to 10-15 as soon as the pump shuts off.
I pulled the FICM and am reasonably sure the connectors were plugged in right, no visible signs of damage, etc.
Lastly, I pulled the IPR. The screen had a light film of crud on it, but would not have been blocked. I pushed the valve open and sprayed it out good. I need to order a screen & o-ring kit. Then I will replace and re-assemble.
I'd like to send the FICM back to Ed to check out while I'm waiting for the IPR kit. I'll send him a PM to set that up. If the FICM checks out and it still won't start I'll probably have to send the truck off to get fixed as I'm not too interested in getting under the intake manifold to chase down a HPO leak.
I was finally able to check fuel pressure at the filter. I have 58psi while the pump is running, which then drops to 10-15 as soon as the pump shuts off.
I pulled the FICM and am reasonably sure the connectors were plugged in right, no visible signs of damage, etc.
Lastly, I pulled the IPR. The screen had a light film of crud on it, but would not have been blocked. I pushed the valve open and sprayed it out good. I need to order a screen & o-ring kit. Then I will replace and re-assemble.
I'd like to send the FICM back to Ed to check out while I'm waiting for the IPR kit. I'll send him a PM to set that up. If the FICM checks out and it still won't start I'll probably have to send the truck off to get fixed as I'm not too interested in getting under the intake manifold to chase down a HPO leak.
#22
If the injectors were stuck open, that would send fuel to fill the cylinders and hydro lock it.... that's not happening if you can crank it over. It is possible to have leaking injectors on the oil side... top seal and that is the leak, enough to cause a no start would mean more than one is leaking. Very possible for this to happen, pulling a valve cover should reveal this issue. Resealing injectors is common, the o-rings wear out over time.
#23
Just wanted to follow up on my experience.
In the end it turned out I did have 2 different problems.
1. HPOP quit. This is probably what caused my initial problems. After determining I didn't have any pressure in the system, I pulled, checked, and cleaned the IPR Valve. I bought a pig tail for it and made a jumper wire. I pressurized the system through the ICP hole with 100 psi of shop air and with a stethoscope, I could tell at that point that I had a very small leak. I felt at that point that I had a leak, but should've been able to build at least some psi but could not build even 20 psi.
2. In the meantime I was concerned that I wasn't getting any injector buzz and so sent the FICM back to FICMrepair.com to get the logic side checked out. I had a volt meter on the batteries and also used my battery charger at the 10 amp setting for a little boost. Somehow the FICM either went on its own or got damaged in the process.
I went ahead and pulled the PS Valve cover and checked the dummy plugs, but couldn't find any leaking there. At that point I decided it had to be in the pump and it would be a bigger project than I wanted to tackle and so finally put it all back together with a replacement FICM and had it towed to a local shop. At the shop they felt like they were getting hit/miss results with the IPR valve, so they went ahead and replaced that with a new one. They then confirmed the HPOP was bad and replaced that too.
I just got it back yesterday and it's running better then ever before (at least since I've owned it). I've read that the HPOP can go without warning, but now that I have it back, I can see the warning signs have been there for a long time - I just didn't know. I had to really get after it to see ICP over 2500, that comes pretty easy now. I have a diesel tractor I bought brand new, I thought long hard starts was just a "diesel thing" - apparently not. I had also put an underdrive pully on the alternator during all of this. My truck now starts as fast as any gas engine. I also had a slightly noticeable "miss" at idle, which seems to be completely gone now. A couple of years ago, I took it to a shop specializing in diesel trucks for some of these symptoms. They wanted to change all of my fuel injectors and glow plugs for $3k. Luckily, I didn't have the money because I think the injectors were fine all along.
In the end it turned out I did have 2 different problems.
1. HPOP quit. This is probably what caused my initial problems. After determining I didn't have any pressure in the system, I pulled, checked, and cleaned the IPR Valve. I bought a pig tail for it and made a jumper wire. I pressurized the system through the ICP hole with 100 psi of shop air and with a stethoscope, I could tell at that point that I had a very small leak. I felt at that point that I had a leak, but should've been able to build at least some psi but could not build even 20 psi.
2. In the meantime I was concerned that I wasn't getting any injector buzz and so sent the FICM back to FICMrepair.com to get the logic side checked out. I had a volt meter on the batteries and also used my battery charger at the 10 amp setting for a little boost. Somehow the FICM either went on its own or got damaged in the process.
I went ahead and pulled the PS Valve cover and checked the dummy plugs, but couldn't find any leaking there. At that point I decided it had to be in the pump and it would be a bigger project than I wanted to tackle and so finally put it all back together with a replacement FICM and had it towed to a local shop. At the shop they felt like they were getting hit/miss results with the IPR valve, so they went ahead and replaced that with a new one. They then confirmed the HPOP was bad and replaced that too.
I just got it back yesterday and it's running better then ever before (at least since I've owned it). I've read that the HPOP can go without warning, but now that I have it back, I can see the warning signs have been there for a long time - I just didn't know. I had to really get after it to see ICP over 2500, that comes pretty easy now. I have a diesel tractor I bought brand new, I thought long hard starts was just a "diesel thing" - apparently not. I had also put an underdrive pully on the alternator during all of this. My truck now starts as fast as any gas engine. I also had a slightly noticeable "miss" at idle, which seems to be completely gone now. A couple of years ago, I took it to a shop specializing in diesel trucks for some of these symptoms. They wanted to change all of my fuel injectors and glow plugs for $3k. Luckily, I didn't have the money because I think the injectors were fine all along.
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Ktm350
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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01-23-2015 08:13 AM