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O ring fried on injector: What was the cause of this?

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  #16  
Old 05-17-2017, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by schlepprock250
Being that bad I would do the oring and glow plugs and run a few tanks of fuel through it before I change the fuel filter. You have lots of oil in the tank, the new filter will just get oily too.
That's pretty sound advice. And exactly as I intended to do..... in November..... when I did my orings.... because of excessive consumption..... But.... Now it's May and I haven't done it yet.
 
  #17  
Old 05-17-2017, 03:34 PM
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I'm going to take a stab at it and guess that that O ring got rolled during installation. Being rolled in it's spot it got distorted out of shape and snipped when shoved in the rest of the way. It looks cooked but I'd suspect that it's just torn.
 
  #18  
Old 05-17-2017, 04:40 PM
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ended up being 3 injectors with the pink o ring toasted. unfreaking baleiveable!!!!!!! pay someone a lot of money and they do crap work. Can't wait to see the guys face when i walk in his shop with the o rings and watch him stumble over his words trying to make a excuse .

On the other hand glad i found the culprit!! Thanks to all
 
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Old 05-17-2017, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jstihl
ended up being 3 injectors with the pink o ring toasted. unfreaking baleiveable!!!!!!! pay someone a lot of money and they do crap work. Can't wait to see the guys face when i walk in his shop with the o rings and watch him stumble over his words trying to make a excuse .

On the other hand glad i found the culprit!! Thanks to all
Congratulations and welcome to the club. This is a classic example of why I say that it's cheaper to take off work, buy the necessary tools and do the work yourself.
 
  #20  
Old 05-17-2017, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Tugly
Dry install. You'd be better off doing you own work on the truck... maybe your mechanic can handle the Fisher Price car in the background.

I suggest you search for the term "hot torque" and do that before putting the VCs back on.
hey rich any other tricks other than plugging in uvch to start engine for hot torque. maybe fill up hpop? or will turning the key work for that?
 
  #21  
Old 05-17-2017, 05:30 PM
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If you want to hot torq you have to run it. Just set the valve covers on, let it run till gauge moves and retorq. I believe Rich used lock tight also.
 
  #22  
Old 05-17-2017, 06:08 PM
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hey guys got everything in and plugged the uvch in, and the 42 pin connector , trying to start but my icp is reading 0.00. any ideas?
 
  #23  
Old 05-17-2017, 06:37 PM
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Well, at least you found the problem. As a matter of fact, you found two problems. Your mechanic is not a very good diesel mechanic, and you have some bad o-rings/glow plugs.

At least you know where to go from here and should be back on the road soon.
 
  #24  
Old 05-17-2017, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by jstihl
hey guys got everything in and plugged the uvch in, and the 42 pin connector , trying to start but my icp is reading 0.00. any ideas?
How many times have you tried cranking? How long are you letting it turn over before you let it rest?
 
  #25  
Old 05-17-2017, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by schlepprock250
How many times have you tried cranking? How long are you letting it turn over before you let it rest?
not very long , my batterys arent doing very well, i charged them earlier today, but now they seem very weak. Charging them now
 
  #26  
Old 05-17-2017, 07:38 PM
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This is an AWESOME thread

Finding a hard-sought problem is always exciting

I agree, it looks like the oring was rolled and then pinched. Lack of lubing can definitely cause this (all orings, not just injectors)

Long start times? Yeah, you drained the entire oil rail or whatever, it's going to take a while.

Keep those battery up! Below 80% you start destroying them

You've got it on the run, now
 
  #27  
Old 05-17-2017, 11:12 PM
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I like to pre fill both rails and the hpop Rail plugs are on each side of the valley under the turbo. I just used a funnel and a PVC tube to fill the rails. Mine started within 15 sec of cranking.
 
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Old 05-17-2017, 11:49 PM
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I like to pre fill both rails and the hpop Rail plugs are on each side of the valley under the turbo. I just used a funnel and a PVC tube to fill the rails. Mine started within 15 sec of cranking.
 
  #29  
Old 05-18-2017, 06:09 AM
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I don't prefill anything except the HPOP reservoir if empty. I can clean around that and be reasonably sure I'm not contaminating the oil that powers my HEUI injectors.

At this age, it's possible you have a weak starter - and it doesn't take much to over-tax your batteries. Here are good batteries and a so-so starter:



...and warming up for a hot-torque:


 
  #30  
Old 05-18-2017, 06:30 AM
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I don't think those were Alliant o-rings... THAT is most likely the cause of the problem. The 'mechanic' got all his parts at the autoparts store or fleabay.

Everytime me I see 'hot torque' I chuckle a little. This is just not required if you torque the injector bolts correctly to start with. I have installed dozens of sets of injectors and have never done a hot torque. I will say people put way too much faith in the torque wrench. At such low torque specs, it's easy to get false confidence (under torqued) or break bolts (over torqued). If your torque wrench isn't a high-end tool and/or hasn't been calibrated lately - you are better off using the German spec (gudentite).
 


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