Doing the EBPS on the F350. Got the pipework off the front real easy (did this on the F250 a few times already). However, I think whoever put the pipework on last at the header may have cross threaded the collar. I PB blasted the hell out of it and it was super stiff turning then suddenly gave and was loose but it won't unscrew any further - pipe is a little loose in the collar.

Only was I can see to get this off now is to unscrew the spur going into the header. Thought is was a 9/16 but it was slipping on the nut and nothing else seems to fit.

Just looking for confirmation on size or method before I screw something up

I was going to clean the pipe in place rather than undoing stuff but now that its loose I can't tighten or unscrew it further so somehow I need to get it off!

 

If I had that problem I would disconnect that tube from the exhaust manifold (it should be very hard to do) and unbolt the mounting bracket/HPOP pump gear access cover (I believe it's just two small bolts) and pull the whole thing out so I could get it on the workbench where I could have my way with it. That covers gets sealed with either Ford's gray sealant or some have reported using RTV blue on it.

 

If it's the manifold, I'd run a tap in it. Have to see what the fitting is. If it's to loose, tap it one size bigger and make it work.

 

Ooops, 'header' does sound more like exhaust manifold than the top piece.

 

So this is underneath by the header. The collar on the left is just spinning - won't tighten won't loosen and come off. The male-male on the right is a 9/16 and has probably been in there since the engine went in and won't budge 9/16 slips off and I can't get a line wrench in as there isn't quite enough space behind it. My plan at the moment is to cut the long edge of the collar with a Dremel and peel it open to get it off the male/male and then deal with any rethreading that needs doing. It's about all I can think of as a plan at the moment. Just hoping the male/male isn't too screwed up.

 

I ran a plug in there for years. I then went the "get the parts" way and didn't see any improvement

 

That's interesting because I just put a new EBPS on the F250 it hauls *** again like a new truck. Weird how different trucks behave.

 

Yeah really... Ran that c way for years with plug in manifold and brass cap on sensor. Not wanting v to throw anyone under the bus, but think Pocket did same thing, so its where I got the idea. Reverted back to stock look with new piping and sensor and saw no change in performance

 

Thats good to know!

 

Technically that bolt is 14mm, not 9/16. I have plenty of experience using SAE for metric and visa versa. 9/19" to 14mm is a very close match, close but no cigar. As long as things cooperate it works but 9/16" is actually more like 14.288mm per the charts. That does look plenty rusty there and it might take heat to get it out. If you get the tube off of it and can get at it try a heavy walled 6 pt 14mm socket for best results. If you don't have acetylene MAP gas is better than nothing and if you heat it and hit it with penetrating oil a few times a lot of stuff lets go.

 

I tried the 14, couldnt get it to fit, maybe didn't try hard enough - i'll get a line wrench for it tomorrow just to be sure. I'm glad you mentioned it as the 9/16 was a slack fit and was lipping off - I wondered if maybe it was the PB Blaster or the nut being so corroded. I have a friend I can get heat from - is best practice to heat the header around the fitting? Thanks for the advice - pretty sure that's gold!!!

 

Yep, the area right around the fitting. You shouldn't have to get 100% of the way around the fitting if some of it's unreachable or too close to flammable parts or anything that might get damaged. I use old license plates and make heat shields out of them when necessary.

 

So they're off and out. The fitting for the headers look royal screwed. Called ford and they can't ID a part number for it which is just bloody marvellous lol. But at least it came out - now I can put it all back together once I have the bits. I didnt have a deep enough 14mm socket but my deep 9/16 serviced it pretty good!!

 

Go to any local hydraulic shop they should carry that fitting.

 

If you have a tubing bender, you can use stainless brake tubing of the same diameter and save a few bucks. I moved the sensor out away from the engine about 1/2" or less and was able to install a new tube with only 2 - 90 degree bends and added one compression coupling to make it work. I took the brake fittings off and used the original ford fittings on the flared tubing. I thought the 7 ford bends was a bit ridiculous and hard to clean.
Larry