I have a 5x5.5 Dana 60 with drums on my rear end. When I put the independent front suspension on it changed the front to a 5x4.5. I matched the rear with wheels spacers. My problem now is that I just changed wheels and they're a tad bit wider and there's a small clearance issue with the bed on bumps. So by getting rid of the wheels spacers it should suck the wheels in enough for clearance. But then my problem would be the wheels don't match the studs. Is there a way to convert the rear to 5x4.5 in any way shape or form. I'd like to keep the axle and not have to swap it.

 

You could have your axles re-drilled with the smaller bolt pattern, or order new axles with the correct bolt pattern. Moser would be my first call.

 

Put a 9" in instead, then you could redrill the holes.

 

Trying my best not to swap to 9" or another axle. Unless it's just the axle shafts. I know you can get rotors re drilled. Does it work the same with drums? Would it be easier to swap to rotors and have those re drilled?

 

I don,t think you can redrill the dana 60. Also that diff you have is very old, probably from the 60,s. I have only ever seen 1 of those. Do you know if its a full floater?

 

I don't know if it's a full floater. I have the diff tag still and the dom number that is stamped on the axle I can check those when I get home. If that doesn't tell me how can I find out. Thanks for the responses yall

 

No such thing as an F100 w/a Dana 60 rear axle. Dana 60 (8 lug wheels on a 6.50" bolt circle) rear axle only installed in F250's and 1979 F350 4WD's.

5 lug wheels on a 5.50" bolt circle: 1963/66 F100 with optional Dana 60.2 .. 1966/69 F100 with optional Dana 60.3

 

Understood. Not arguing. Just saying the diff tag says it's a Dana 60 the dom stamp says it's a Dana 60 so I'm gonna go with it's a Dana 60. Whether it came factory or not that's what's under there.

 

I would just take your axles to a machine shop and have them re-drill the holes for the lugs.

Any reputable machine shop should be able to do this for you for a fairly low cost. The biggest factor to re-drilling is to firstly get everything centered... then secondly, to get the new holes at the correct spots so that the rotation of the axle isn't off-balance due to the existing holes.

The ol' measure twice cut once method should do the trick

EDIT: Make sure you tell the machine shop the correct side of hole you want drilled so you don't have to swap out your studs for something different - I would use the exact same size of stud (factory size) if possible because it keeps things consistent.

 

It looks like getting them re-drilled would be the best option. For those that say they can't be drilled to a smaller bolt pattern, why is that? Curious before I tank them off and call a machine shop.

 

Total guess, but here goes...

I would imagine that it has to do with the structural integrity and overall capacity of the axle to safely handle the load from the lug studs.

You're removing material from a piece of metal that's intended to hold one quarter of the entire load the vehicle exerts (weight + movement). Removing material weakens it substantially... thereby increasing the chances of something breaking or going wrong in the future.

I don't think it's a matter of "you can't", it's a matter of "it's not recommended".

 

To tell if its a full floater, it will have bolts holding the axel in, then the axel can come out. That has nothing to do with holding the wheel on. Next step is to remove the large nuts under the axel(2 of them) the outer wheel bearing is next. Then the drum and hub assembly can come off.Thats where the wheel mounts. It may be possible to redrill those 2 parts.

 

Inteeesting read here:
1967 Ford F-100 - Project Speed Bump: Part 4

 

Looks like I'll be pulling it apart this weekend to find out if it's a floater or not and then go from there.
On the topic of the structure, and the ability to even get the axle drilled out. I would weld up the previous holes. To hopefully add some of that structure back. Does that seem reasonable?

 

Ok, just to clear things up. Do you have a full floater or a semi floater?

If you have an 8 lug full floater as some people have assumed in their replies, redrilling them won't work.

If you have a semi floater then redrill them. There are plenty of high horsepower dragsters running 9 inch, 10 inch, Dana 60, and others with "lightening holes" drilled in the flanges. Just have the holes placed half way between the existing ones. Just remember, what you do to the axles you will have to do to the brakes as well.