1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: Moser

New Steering and Brakes project !

  #1  
Old 05-12-2017, 05:42 PM
kegger66's Avatar
kegger66
kegger66 is offline
More Turbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: North Texas
Posts: 534
Likes: 0
Received 27 Likes on 21 Posts
New Steering and Brakes project !

Well I've been kicking this around long enough, reading up on the FTE forum threads for months so now I pulled the trigger to start down the path. I'll post pics along the way, think it'll be a fun and learning adventure and the goal is great steering and stops on a dime (maybe 2 dimes since the backs will remain drums for now).

Project goals:

- Replace steering box with RedHead (Ordered from RedHead).
- Convert Power Steering to Saginaw dual-return type (Ordered from WildHorses*)
- Convert to Hydroboost brakes (still researching)

Couple questions for you guys out of the gate:

1. Brake lines - Stainless worth the extra couple $'s ??
2. Proportioning valve - existing one seems to work ok but I like the idea of relocating that to under the Master Cylinder as I've see a couple FTE'ers do. Other than brake line changes any pro/cons to having it moved there?
3. Brake line tools - I haven't made brake lines before, what tools (URLs/brands would be appreciated) are good at doing the job by a novice? (Stainless any harder/easier to work with?)
4. Hydroboost system - I've been looking at Broncograveyards and hydratech's options (which I think are the same), anybody else make new systems for our dents worth looking at?

Thanks in advance for the help along the way guys!

*Wildhorses has a kit (792030Kit) for my 400 but it's single return, I called them and they swapped out the pump for a dual return for the pump price difference! Great experience with those guys already!
 
  #2  
Old 05-12-2017, 08:04 PM
Blue and White's Avatar
Blue and White
Blue and White is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
I'll offer a perspective on SS brake lines. They are pretty. They are harder to seal vs mild steel. Also cannot be modified with common flare tools. High end/pro tool required (?$350).

I prefer mild steel... which lasted 35 years on my dent. Now I have a mix of original steel lines and hand formed replacements in mild steel.

If extreme corrosive environment was expected I would probably go with copper/nickle (ie NiCop)... but I try to avoid that with my classics.
 
  #3  
Old 05-12-2017, 08:10 PM
monkey-1's Avatar
monkey-1
monkey-1 is offline
Laughing Gas
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Clinton, MS
Posts: 951
Received 97 Likes on 71 Posts
Here is a post of when I upgraded the brakes on my truck:

Originally Posted by monkey-1
I recently ran all new lines (hard and soft) on my truck wile doing a manual to power brake conversion and used these lines. Very easy to work with and very forgiving. I ordered 50' of this stuff and even having to run from the factory valve on the frame to the new one on the master cylinder, it is enough. If you are in the need of a great flaring tool, check out the Mastercool Flare (71475) makes flaring easy and turns out perfect flares every time. It will also do transmission and fuel lines. So easy to do, my daughter flared almost all of the lines.
Attachment 170831Attachment 170832


I also made a tool to straighten the line. Just a scrap piece of metal and some v-groove bearings off of eBay. Run it through a few time and it is straight and ready to go:
Attachment 170836
I would highly suggest the Niccop lines as thy are very easy to work with and will last a long time. Do some research, you will see how much people like this stuff.
 
  #4  
Old 05-12-2017, 08:21 PM
Filthy Beast's Avatar
Filthy Beast
Filthy Beast is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Taxachusetts
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Agree with Blue and White on stainless lines...put 'em in meself a few years ago, bought a roll....pain to bend, get the right flare...40* (?) as opposed to the 45*.... and to seat 'em. Not worth the dollars or the aggravation.

And I agree with Blue and White as well as Monkey-1 about using NiCopp lines. Easier to cut/bend/flare, resistant to weather/rust can withstand the necessary pressure, etc. Cheaper, more betterer than SS, too. When I do another vehicle I will use the NiCopp.

Tools? Yer local parts stores should have flaring tools as well as line benders. Amazon has 'em too...
 
  #5  
Old 05-13-2017, 09:49 AM
kegger66's Avatar
kegger66
kegger66 is offline
More Turbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: North Texas
Posts: 534
Likes: 0
Received 27 Likes on 21 Posts
Thanks Gents! I'll go with the NiCopp lines ! Monkey-1, appreciate the links on tools and lines!
 
  #6  
Old 05-20-2017, 11:28 AM
kegger66's Avatar
kegger66
kegger66 is offline
More Turbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: North Texas
Posts: 534
Likes: 0
Received 27 Likes on 21 Posts
Starting to get parts in !


Redhead - Check
New M/C for Hydroboost - Check
New Rag joint - Check
Saginaw dual return pump and bracket - Check
Misc outside braided brake lines - Check
PS Cooler - Check[/I]

Here's the starting point:



PS Pump, MC and Booster are all about a year old. Got a buddy that needs them so I've got a donor recipient.


Just waiting on the Hydroboost to show up !
 
  #7  
Old 05-20-2017, 11:36 AM
kegger66's Avatar
kegger66
kegger66 is offline
More Turbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: North Texas
Posts: 534
Likes: 0
Received 27 Likes on 21 Posts
I'm going to change out all flexible brake lines while I'm in this project. Got the braided set from BG that supports a 4" lift (2018-2019 project)

I'm going to leave the PV where it's at and only replace the lines from MC to PV. Looking at some flexible braided custom lines (another FTE'er did that recently on his dent, sent me the company info).

I got the summit trans/PS cooler (in pic) but after looking the truck over this morning I may not have a good spot for it... we'll see once I get the sleeves rolled up.
 
  #8  
Old 05-20-2017, 12:19 PM
meangreen92's Avatar
meangreen92
meangreen92 is offline
Logistics Pro
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,094
Received 79 Likes on 71 Posts
Nice looking engine bay!



Can't say I've ever seen a green belt on an engine either.

Is the Hydroboost really better than vacuum? Or are you running a lumpy cam which necessitates it?
 
  #9  
Old 05-20-2017, 06:48 PM
kegger66's Avatar
kegger66
kegger66 is offline
More Turbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: North Texas
Posts: 534
Likes: 0
Received 27 Likes on 21 Posts
Thanks!

Yea Lucky green! - when I converted from York to Sanden A/C Compressor last year I needed a non-standard belt length for the new setup so I went with a Gates HD Tractor belt. I'm pretty sure it'll outlast me.

Lots of threads in our forum about hydroboost, it makes a big difference in braking on these old dents. More than one FTE'r has said it was the best thing they've done to their dent. It's a stock engine but I do plan to turn the volume up on it (Tmeyer style) when the time comes. Fortunately(or unfortunately) this engine runs like a top so I don't have a reason to change it anytime soon.

I'm swapping from stock Ford power Steering pump to Saginaw since they hold up better in general, especially when adding brakes and bigger tires to the workload.
 
  #10  
Old 06-02-2017, 07:19 PM
kegger66's Avatar
kegger66
kegger66 is offline
More Turbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: North Texas
Posts: 534
Likes: 0
Received 27 Likes on 21 Posts
Well... Still waiting for the hydroboost to show up (was 4-6 weeks). In the meantime I've been scratching at what to keep busy with, thought some of you might get a kick out of this...




Took a couple 10gal water coolers I had down to my local Line-X guy (same guy that sprayed the bed in my dent last year - see other post)



Holds 1/6 barrel or 1/4 barrel kegs (no condensation, low ice consumption)...



Had a buddy of mine that owns a custom foam business make me a couple inserts to seal the cold in.



Extra piece of plywood (cutout to hold the cup on windy days!)



Fancy top... can you tell I'm a little antsy about getting the rest of my dent parts in so I can start!
 
  #11  
Old 06-03-2017, 08:02 PM
GLR's Avatar
GLR
GLR is offline
FTE Legend
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: NY and VA
Posts: 49,375
Received 844 Likes on 763 Posts
The brake lines should be double flared. Don't forget to put the fittings on before flaring.
 
  #12  
Old 07-08-2017, 11:57 AM
kegger66's Avatar
kegger66
kegger66 is offline
More Turbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: North Texas
Posts: 534
Likes: 0
Received 27 Likes on 21 Posts
Well Santa Hydratech arrived today! That was a long 6 weeks. Here's what the kit looks like for those interested in it.





Was impressed how the stuff was packed and arranged.






New high and low pressure PS Lines (and fittings)





Good set of documentation to read up on...


I was comparing the PS bleeding procedures between Redhead and Hydratech and they align with what is said in this forum ! good stuff




RedHead




Hydratech - Note in step 5 to increased the lock-to-lock if you have long lines and/or PS cooler





FYI: I saw this in the detail instructions on the Hydratech for recommended PS Fluids.


I'll post pics as I go through the swapout !
 
  #13  
Old 07-08-2017, 01:24 PM
9thPony's Avatar
9thPony
9thPony is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 580
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
I have the Hydratech setup in my truck as well. Best upgrade I've ever done to any vehicle. I no longer stress when having to brake hard unexpectedly - it stops like a new vehicle (minus anti-lock). I'm sure you'll love it once you get it installed.
 
  #14  
Old 07-08-2017, 08:04 PM
scrabby's Avatar
scrabby
scrabby is offline
New User
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Vail, CO
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I'm in the same boat -- waiting for Hydratech.

The Wild Horses Saginaw kit was nice, but I had to do a little enlarging of one of the holes in the supplied bracket. No bleeding needed for me, I just put PS fluid in and it worked great. The Ford pump, on the other hand, was impossible.
 
  #15  
Old 07-09-2017, 09:11 AM
Mac J's Avatar
Mac J
Mac J is offline
Mountain Pass
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Front Range & Gunnison
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Parts Cost?

I like how you spent you your time waiting for the parts to arrive. What's been your total cash outlay so far?
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: New Steering and Brakes project !



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:48 PM.