I was asked in a pm about how the dash and door panels fit and if the original wiring connectors worked. Thought it post it to help anybody else.

I used the mcnasty dash kit. The dash bolt together on the two door pillars on one on the floor in the same spots. I installed the dash frame fist then put the plastic with the ductwork on top. Then the main plastic was placed on. There are a few screw locations from the back that are missing, but the one from the front still make the dash solid.

The door panels fit the same. Remove the original panel and unbolt the door handle. Before I cut the plastic around the door handle down, but this time I used a few washers to build up the space. If anyone has a better solution I would like to know. Two tek screws in the bottom of the door panel secure it.

Most of the wiring plugs fit into the newer dash. A 05-07 heater control is needed, but it plugs into the older wiring. The 4x4 selector can be unbolted an changed with the original selector. The headlight switch is different.

 

Got the instrument cluster cover installed. Cut it according to the templates in the kit, but it wasn't even close to fitting. Had to cut out the center around the steering column. Cut out almost all the area around the instrument cluster. Will make some filler pieces to go all around the instrument cluster.

Wanted to put the 08 steering column covers on, but it looked like it was going to need some cutting to fit. Put the old covers back on for now. Has anyone got the 08+ covers to fit?

Got the headlight switch done. Took apart the old headlight switch and the 08. Cut the 08 down to where it just goes in the dash. Kept the internal circle with the detents on the shaft. Cut the shaft down and filed a slot in it. Took the faceplate and **** off the old switch. Pushed the two together with some super glue. Then welded some plastic strips to hold everything together. It seems pretty solid. Wanted to use the switch from the 12 dash, but the internals are different and would have pushed the original switch too far back. The dimmer got recessed more than I was hoping. Thinking about just putting a cover over it since it doesn't get used anyway.

Tested out the vents. They all work and flow even.

Still need the new parking brake release. Does anyone have a part number for it? I can only find 99-04. Is it called something else after that?

 

Got the 08 steering column cover installed. There was a lot of trimming needed. The shifter needed a big cutout. The front circle needed about 1/4" cut out to fit the clock spring. The bottom piece needed to be notched for the turn signal lever. The bottom of the slot for the tilt lever needs about 1/4" cut out. The hole for the hazard switch needed to be widened.

The hole for the key was centered around the bottom of the key hole in the column. Tried to cut out as little as possible. The key is recessed into the cover, so I had to cut it bigger to get fingers in to turn the key. Will try to weld some plastic back in to make it look better. Think I can blend it in with part of the original cover. Also going to fill in around the hazard light switch.

The screw holes at in different locations. The cover is only clipped together. One clip by the key hole was cut out, but all the rest are ok. The clips hold it together pretty solid.

Using the original tilt lever for now. I'll try to come up with a way to use the newer lever.

According to the cover and the opening in the dash the column is too far to the right. Even if the bolt holes were slotted I don't think there would be enough to move it over to center. Could try cutting the covers down the middle, cut maybe 1/2" out, and rejoin them. Think I'll wait until the f-150 wheel is on before I do anymore adjustments.

Right now the left side of the cover looks good. The right side looks off because of all the cutouts. It still looks way better than using the original cover with mcnasty's filler plate.

 

I wonder if you found a Colum cover for a manual trans (2008) then you may be able to cut it exact for your gear selector? With the new dash do the side kick plates look like they will work?

 

A column cover from a manual wouldn't be much better. You can get a better cutout for the shifter, but the key hole is still lower on the 08 cover.

The kick plates fit perfect. The top just clears the side panel of the dash.

 

Nice thanks for the info, I will be doing my dash later this year after paint and already have most of what I need.

 

My door panels are from a 2014 and came with the switches and pigtails. The connectors on the switches are different from the 08 style. Tried to wire up the passenger side door, but it didn't go so well.

Couldn't find a pinout for them. Took a multimeter and started touching pins and pressing the switch. The pin the way it is pictured from left to right are ground, up, down, and power.

The old switch has 7 pins. Two are for the led. The center pin is power. The outside pins are connected top to bottom. When the switch is pressed the connection between the top and bottom pin is broken. Then one of the pins connects to the center power pin. I'm guessing one pin is the input from the drivers door and the other goes to the window motor.

Hooked up one pair of outside wires to the up on the 14 switch and one pair to the down. Then the center wire to the power pin on the 14 switch. The ground from the old connector goes to the ground for the led.

The led is the only thing that wanted to work. The drivers side switch still worked, but the 14 switch did nothing. Thought maybe the switch was bad so tried touching the wires together. Still nothing. Ended up hooking the wires from the 14 switch wrong and it started smoking. Checked the switch with the multimeter and its fried.

The 14 switches look the same as the 08 switches only different connectors. Found a video showing how to wire the 08 to a 01. The 01 has the same type of switches as my 2000. So they should work. Didn't want to buy new switches and pigtails if I didn't have to, but will still be the backup plan. The wires on the 14 pigtail are a little bit thinner than the old wires. Not sure if the switch still has the power for the window motor running through it or if it goes to a relay to power the motor.

The power lock switch is the same kind of connector. There is only 5 pins, two of the outside pins are missing. Pushed the wires from the pigtail into the connector and it works. All 4 of my lock actuators need to be fixed yet, so I wasn't sure if it was trying to lock or unlock. At least I know it works, but won't wire it until the actuators get fixed.

Could wire it so only the wires from the driver door works the windows. If someone asks why their window doesn't open can say there is something wrong with the child safety lock on the window.

 

If I put the 11 dash in my other 2000 I wouldn't go with the mcnasty kit again. I only got the kit because I was worried about trying to make an adapter for the ducting. The adapter does work great. Others have used dryer venting or other types of hose, but only had a couple pictures without much detail. Thought it would be too much downtime for my main vehicle.

The brackets for the column can be easily made out of some angle iron. The studs can be kept. Drill the angle for both studs. Then measure off the column for the bottom stud. The top hole needs to be slotted. It is only plastic so that is pretty easy.

I used the 08 column cover so the bend and the holes in the angle bracket weren't needed for the filler plate. The brackets for the instrument cluster are only plate with a few holes that can easily be made.

The pattern for cutting out the instrument cluster cover plate should have been better. The pattern is a scan of something that was hand drawn with 1/4" lines. Depending where you cut and trace the pattern I could be 1/4" to 1/2" off. The pattern didn't even line up with the piece. I had to move it around a few times as I was tracing to line up the front edge. The cover can be $50 to $100 on ebay so you don't really want to mess it up. When I cut mine it was off so I decided to cut it bigger and make my own filler piece.

The filler pieces for the steering column and instrument cluster should have had some bend in them. I don't think anyone who spend the money for the dash, all the parts, and the kit are going to be happy with something they have to hand bend to try to blend the pieces together.

The fuse box brackets are a good idea. Others extended the wires and put it under the hood or in the glove box. The brackets make it out of the way but still easy to get at. The way I ran my wires they bunched up behind the fuse box and couldn't go back far enough for the bracket to work. Ended up bending the bracket down some. Also a part that is easy to make.

The obd 2 bracket also is good. Out of the way but can still be reached. The bracket can be made or it could just be tek screwed to the bottom of the dash frame.

I paid $300 for the complete 08 dash and $514 for the partial 12 dash. $370 for the kit shipped over doubled the price, but for the 12 dash after adding up the cost of other pieces to finish it the price of the kit isn't that big.

In the video mcnasty said several times that the kit is something that has to be played with to get the look you want. For me I saved time on the ductwork but lost it pulling and adjusting the steering column and trying to fit the cover for the instrument cluster.

All the parts can be made for under $100 with a little time. If you can plan 1 extra day for the swap it should be no problem to make the parts. For me that extra $270 or more is already a couple days of work.

 

looked at the window switch wiring again. Touched the power wire to a wire that should go to the motor. The window moved! Touched it to one wire it went up. Touched it to the opposite wire it went down. Tried another switch it smoked.

The wire from the driver door needs to touch the wire to the motor to control it from the driver door. If the power wire touches the wire from the driver door it arcs out and heats up.

The wire from the driver side door might work with a diode to prevent back feeding. Had one of the switches apart before. Didn't look like there was much to it for wiring. Might be able to rewire it with some wire that won't burn up instead of a little copper trace.

Looking at it some more I'm pretty sure this switch doesn't take the full load through it to the motor. It just sends a signal to a relay.

Right now I have two junk switches that I'll try to make into something that can work.

Saw a post from a few years ago about taking the top half of the switch and adapting it to the bottom half of an 02-07 switch. The pictures showing the steps are all gone now. Took apart the switches and got it to kinda work, but half the time it would pop out of alignment.

 

you should pm zack for the wire colors from stock to new switches. he's on his 2nd dash/interior swap. careful though, after you see his instrument cluster you might want to start over.


SGT MAC The 01 F250 build thread - Page 47 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum


here's a vid on his door panels

 

What year are those kick plates and did you paint them? if you painted them can let me know what the paint code is, I have a thread out there trying to find the brand and color of Steel Grey paint but no one knows. Thanks

 

The switches I have are for a 13-16. The switches in the video are for 08-12. The 2016 instrument cluster does look nice. Have other things I want to get done before the cluster.

The kick plates are the original from the 2000. They are repainted with duplicolor hvp111 charcoal gray. Its the same color I painted the dash with.

 

Thanks I'll check the paint to see if it's what I'm looking for being a blue grey.

 

One of the work trucks in the shop was getting cleaned out. Took some reference pictures and thought they might be useful to others. Hoping to borrow the truck when I do the front end conversion.

 

This is the body panels.