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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

1985 ford f250 6.9 idi wiring help!!!

 
  #1  
Old 05-02-2017, 03:48 PM
Pigpendirtface08
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1985 ford f250 6.9 idi wiring help!!!

I recently just got a 1985 ford f250 6.9 idi an have done a lot of research trying to figure out my problem and haven't found exactly everything I need to know. A summary of the problems it has is from my understanding is most common problems such as glow plugs fryied. The previous owner says hes not sure if the controller is disconnected because he thinks he heres it come on an off? But theres a momentary switch that has been wired in onto the gp relay, one connected to power purple post, other to positive battery post on relay. Ge said first time he put in motorcraft beru ZD1A gps it started up as it shouldve the first time, an gps were fried sfter. Ive done ohm testing an I dont get readings. I did test on gp harness and the purple wire on relay that connects back to gp harness is dead an 2 orange wires are low in voltage. On relay side of harness the other gp side of harness gets no voltage. The orange wire connected to alternator from voltage regultor has no.voltage but the other ones on the vr do. Parr part of the wiring harness that hooks up to alternator an part of injection pump has no voltage either except 1 wire that junctions with the black with orange tracer wire. Also now im not sure if I ha e something wrong but I cant even hook up my batteries without my ground wires shorting.out especially my wire with fuse link that hooks up from alternator an voltage regulator. I tested for continuity an the link is reading but im gunu replace an replace the wiring that isnt reading voltage I don't have much money to spare but I got some basic stuff of what I think I need an some spare parts that I hope work gp harness, alternator, etc.. Im gunu continue to try an figure it out. Please help!!!!!!#
 
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Old 05-02-2017, 06:07 PM
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dude
proof read your post and change ur format, what i read sounds like jibberish.
i know ur not an idiot but this post makes u sound like one. we can easily help u solve ur problems if u make the problems easier to understand.
 
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Old 10-30-2017, 07:41 AM
1986F350XL6.9LDRW
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HaHa. When I turn my key on the red glow plug light in dash doesn't illuminate nor do you hear the clicking sound of the controller anymore. I think the blinkers gave up at the same time. Any questions or comments are appreciated.
 
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Old 10-30-2017, 02:21 PM
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You should have a red/lightgreen wire that runs all over the top of the engine. To your heater in the filter assembly, to your vacuum switch for the brakes, to the injection pump to activate it. This is a key on hot and it feeds most everything on top of the engine.

Turn the key to run. Is this wire hot? If not, trace it back and it should have a rubber thing in the line called a fusible link. See if that is good.
 
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Old 10-30-2017, 04:57 PM
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Ok first picture is what I believe to be the red/light green wire. Is it ok to have the clear wire spliced in? I didn't have anymore wire at time and used what I believed to be similar gauge for the 165 amp alternator upgrade.

Second picture, index finger plug was unplugged and middle finger ground was unplugged. Plugged them back up and dash glow plug red light is illuminating and the dual click is back.

Third picture am I ok to run deep cycle boat batteries. I will most likely need new batteries soon. What batteries would You suggest I buy to replace?

Now....when turning over, "glow plug safe starter fluid" (because first start of the day won't happen without), the engine is turning over slowly at about half the repetitions like it does when batteries are dead but I've charged the 4 batteries I have continuously. I'm not excited to go buy $250 worth of batteries to "see if it works". Any suggestions?

Note: I've a terrible blow by from oil filler cap, dipstick and exhaust pipe. Exhaust exits from turbo and manifolds have a sealed bridge pipe but left manifold has burned clear though so is dangling.
Sometimes while engine is starting it'll start knocking/ticking something like a 6.0 sound but louder then I rev it out after start up but doesn't always knock during startup.
Lastly water pump gasket leaks but probably not applicable. Just add a gallon a day and You'll be ok
 
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Old 10-30-2017, 08:15 PM
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Deep cycle batteries will not crank it over very fast. They are made for long term medium current draws all the way down to zero. Starting batteries are designed for the very large current needed to turn a starter motor over, but are too delicate to sustain a current draw way down to almost complete discharge like a deep cycle. Just like tires, you need to buy the specific piece that is designed to do the job.

If you are going to use ether, I would disconnect the glowplugs. I have never heard of "glowplug safe" ether and if they did make such a thing, then it must not have much oomph to make the engine fire off.

What does the new wire you spliced in go to?

Here are some good diagrams for a 86 diesel.

Charge & Power Distribution - Diesel Engines - ???Gary's Garagemahal

Start & Glow Plug Control - Diesel - ???Gary's Garagemahal

I would print these off and take some time to study them. There is a lot of good info in them, even connector plug locations.
 
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Old 10-31-2017, 10:58 AM
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The deep cycles have a 600 CCA while Super Starts have an 860 CCA. So I took the boat batteries off. Did not expand my brain blanket enough to cover that Thank You

First picture is the description on starting fluid bottle. It's my third bottle used on truck and fires her up great. If anyone wants it the brand is JOHNSEN'S from Oriellys about $4 a bottle. I'm just being warned about many ether problems: vapor lock, dried seals, dried air filter and glow plug problems.

The wire I spliced goes to the 165a alternator 3 pin plug.

Put on the fresh charged 860 CCA batteries this morning, good dose of ether and engine almost fired. Tried twice more. The link I'll post below has a recommendation by chillman88 about the starter being bad and engine turnover being slower resembling bad batteries.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ng-help-2.html

So crawled under truck and hot wire was smoking on starter. I'm about to remove starter and get an Autozone starter AFTER checking gear and having Autozone test the starter. I have a couple of questions; hopefully this will help others noobs such as myself HaHa..

1. Hot wire in picture seems to be melting from the spade connector. Won't know until I get the 20lb starter off. Could this be the slow turn no start problem but I don't think so. Perhaps just oil burning..
2. I've a slough of leaks on motor. Will these leaks on starter will cause premature starter failure?
3. Should I dielectric grease the spade connectors when reinstalling new starter, IF I have to make that 4 hour $150 decision?
 
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Old 10-31-2017, 07:02 PM
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I see nowhere on that can that it's safe to use with glowplugs. It says "follow manufacturers instructions" on using it and I can guarantee you all manufacturers are going to tell you not to use either, or if you use it disconnect the glowplugs.

Double check exactly where that cable is getting hot. Find out if it's the cable or the connector connection on the starter. That smoking area is going to be part of your problem. It's smoking because it's getting hot of course. It's getting hot because there is resistance in the connection there. That is your "smoking gun" so to speak of a problem right in that area. Any smoke or excessive heat anywhere else in the large wiring will also be a problem area. The resistance is causing a voltage drop to the starter, so it's not getting the full battery voltage to it.
 
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Old 10-31-2017, 08:09 PM
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Well...smoke was from a rusted nut on hot pole lol took the starter to a shop and installed new solenoid $45, starter tested strong. First start and truck fired up for a half second and died...grr...two more tries to fire up and didn't work.

I'm going to install 2 new batteries tomorrow 850 CCA 1000 CA and 150 reserve capacity. Charging them first before installing.

IF THE TRUCK DOESN'T START I'LL BE MADDER THAN A GUT SHOT GRIZZLY.
 
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Old 11-01-2017, 01:54 PM
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If it cranked over and tried to start, and then after that is just cranks and cranks, and there is no stinky smoke coming out of the tailpipe, then you probably have air in the fuel system.

Make sure you have stinky white smoke coming out of the tailpipe. That means fuel is getting into the engine, but is not being burned. Usually because of a glowplug problem. A little ether in that case IF THE GLOWPLUGS ARE DISCONNECTED would probably make it fire off.

Trying to fire and then just cranking after that with no stinky smoke is a classic sign of air intrusion. There is a little bit of fuel in the hard lines right behind the injectors, but the rest of the system feeding the injection pump is dry. You can confirm this by poking something sharp into the "tire valve" on the side of the fuel filter housing. If no fuel comes out, then you have air in it. Cranking and cranking, giving the starter a little time to cool down, it should finally work all the air out and fire up.

But if you have a leak somewhere, it's going to do it again. If you park it on a steep hill with the nose down, that will help. The way this system works, it has the conventional type fuel pump, which sucks fuel from the tank, pushes it up to the filter, and then to the injection pump. You have return lines hooked to the filter housing, and each injector. All these returns are hooked together into one large return line that runs down the backbone rear area of the engine, and then back to the tank.

What happens when you have a small leak, it lets air into the system when the truck is not running. As the air enters the system, fuel leaves and runs down the return and back to the tank. This whole system on top of the engine works just like when you put a straw down in a drink, hold your thumb over the straw, and draw the straw out of the drink. As long as you keep the straw sealed with your thumb, then the drink stays in the straw. That is exactly how these old diesel fuel systems work. The fuel system is supposed to be tightly sealed, and the fuel stays on top of the engine.

Places they all tend to leak;

1. The o-rings around the injectors. These get hard with age and will let air in. You can get kits to replace the o-rings and the plastic fittings around the injectors, and it comes with the new rubber line also.

2. Check all your rubber fuel lines. Any small diesel leaks mean air can get it when it's shut off.

3. The fuel heater on top of the filter housing. If it's weeping, it will let air into the system.
 
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Old 11-01-2017, 05:47 PM
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Truck smokes heavily from engine bay during startup but not getting any smoke from engine so likely the air in fuel problem.

When I push in the valve to release while engine is attempting to start it doesn't seem (can't hear or see any) that any air is coming out. First push and I got a small sprinkle of fuel but after 5 10 second starts got nothing.

I'm going to take off fuel filter and check fuel level, if low I'll fill and reinstall. Picture show something I've been seeing for months but I'll quick fix that wet injector and be back shortly. If these quick 2 remedies don't get her done then I'll do a system check as advised tomorrow.
 
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Old 11-02-2017, 06:37 PM
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That hard line on top of the injector is your high pressure fuel line from the injection pump. It opens the injector at about 1800 psi.

Inside the injector they have a on purpose fuel leak. It keeps the injector lubed and cool. This "leak" runs out a little hole on the side of the injector, into those black plastic donuts. Each one of those plastic donuts has a o-ring on the top and one on the bottom with the leak hole in the middle. And the donut also has hose barbs on it, that is where the hose with the little blue clamps goes.

Looks like it has all been replaced at one time, but after about 7-8 years or so, they can start leaking again from the heat and the rubber getting old.
 
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Old 11-03-2017, 07:25 AM
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I'll be damned...so air intrusion was caused by turbo pipe sleeve behind air filter housing slipping off allowing too much air. Drove ol Black Bull for about 75 miles yesterday, total of about 10 start ups, no problems, no ether and with added power boost having turbo hooked up correctly.

I've a $150 8 hour side job to go to this morning and the key when turned on activates glow plug rts light but hard to hear first click, second click off is definite and seems to be staying on too long for a 70 degree morning. Trying to start truck and nothing. Engine doesn't even turn.

I'm in park, negatives and connections are tight, checked starter and She's hooked up tight and right still, charged batteries overnight. I'm a bit confused. If it ain't one thing it's another and when it rains it pours

More fiddling discovered glow plugs must be hot because rts light isn't coming up and relay ain't clicking

Got a quick double click sounded like from starter on one start, might've been hot plug relay on off

Horn buzzes when key is in any position but on and honks when key is off

Head and running lights come on but appear to be quite dim though batteries charged all night. When I went to test headlights **** and shaft came out of headlight switch. Surely I didn't leave lights on all night? I was sitting on porch for an hour after hooking up charger and would've noticed and wife came home late would've noticed. Both were after dark. Maybe something's draining my batteries??

3rd and final edit...threw the fresh boat batteries in and fired right up...if I left headlights off I'll find out by tomorrow morning if something is slow draining batteries while off. My apologies for the confusion.
 

Last edited by 1986F350XL6.9LDRW; 11-03-2017 at 07:46 AM. Reason: In a frantic all fired rush looking for help but fixed
 
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