Nevermind! I just realized I can take the 4x4 harness and plug it in to the auto harness, use the auto harness to fool the PCM to think the E4OD is still there and in neutral, and just wire what I need to for the reverse lights and plug in the clutch starter interlock switch.

 

That hose barb is for the breather. Originally, there was a 90 degree elbow with a little pipe and cap on it.

Red

 

Awesome. I'll just hang a new hose off it.

 

I'm at the most fun part of any manual transmission installation! Getting the input shaft to match up with the friction disc splines!

I test fit it to the box before I popped it on the motor and it went on fine, so I know they fit together.

 

When I helped a friend change the clutch on his ZF-6, I got a couple bolts that were the same thread as the bellhousing and cut the heads off. I used them for dowel pins to helk line up the transmission and engine.

Red

 

Probably hanging up on the pilot bushing. Line it up as good as you can, shake wiggle and push. It will go just a pain to get in some time.

 

Yeah, looking back I should have grabbed one of the cherry pickers from the shop before I took the truck apart.

I've actually got a plan to support the box using the auto crossmember to allow me to gently slide it on the frame rails, and pivot the motor forward slightly to level it out again. Once I can get the rear supported on the crossmember, I can rest the front on some jacks in the and better position ny trans jack.

 

Still fightin' with it!

 

Got it in!! Hallelujah!

 

Alright, so I've run into another snag.

First off, what are the torque specs for the bellhousing to the motor? I've read 45ft-lbs on some sites.

Second, I've got the right crossmember off the donor truck, but it doesn't line up with the transmission at all, and there's only a single set of holes that match it. It's as though the box is too far forward.

Since mine was initially a 2wd truck, do I have to drill new holes in the frame? Didn't see anything about that.

 

Okay, so I will have to drill the holes. Looking around for photos of frames on manual trucks shows me where they are. Now, what are my tolerances in terms of how accurate I need to drill these holes? Or do I have some leeway?

I'll have to wait till later this morning before I go drilling, so I'm just removing the auto shifter and tidying up the interior again.

 

Never mind

 

Just hold the crossmember up to the frame and mark where the holes need to be.... If you overbore the holes, you'll have slop and that isn't good.

 

Got it. Perhaps I'm just overly paranoid, haha.

 

Got just about everything in.

Need to finish torquing the transfer case to the trans, and get the driveshaft in place.

Then it's fill up the trans and transfer case, and see what happens!