Add Tach Gauge to my Truck?
#1
#2
C3TZ-17360-F .. 4000 RPM Tachometer / Marked: C3TF-17360-A2 / Obsolete
1963/69 F700/1000.
Ford offered accessory 6000 & 8000 RPM tachs, that mounted atop the dash.
Another option: You could install a 1965/66 Mustang Rallye Pak on the steering column that includes a clock.
#3
Not a very good choice.
C3TZ-17360-F .. 4000 RPM Tachometer / Marked: C3TF-17360-A2 / Obsolete
1963/69 F700/1000.
Ford offered accessory 6000 & 8000 RPM tachs, that mounted atop the dash.
Another option: You could install a 1965/66 Mustang Rallye Pak on the steering column that includes a clock.
C3TZ-17360-F .. 4000 RPM Tachometer / Marked: C3TF-17360-A2 / Obsolete
1963/69 F700/1000.
Ford offered accessory 6000 & 8000 RPM tachs, that mounted atop the dash.
Another option: You could install a 1965/66 Mustang Rallye Pak on the steering column that includes a clock.
I do not think the Mustang rally pack will work because I have the smaller diameter tube with the separate shifter tube going through the floor, being that is is an automatic and only a 64
#4
It's not feasible to add that one. It requires a drive mechanism. On 292s, tach drive distributors came in T Birds - expect to spend $700 or so for that. Even then, it may not work - I don't know if drive ratios were always the same or not.
Your best bet is an aftermarket electronic tach. There are quite a few vintage looking options out there.
Your best bet is an aftermarket electronic tach. There are quite a few vintage looking options out there.
#5
It's not feasible to add that one. It requires a drive mechanism. On 292s, tach drive distributors came in T Birds - expect to spend $700 or so for that. Even then, it may not work - I don't know if drive ratios were always the same or not.
Your best bet is an aftermarket electronic tach. There are quite a few vintage looking options out there.
Your best bet is an aftermarket electronic tach. There are quite a few vintage looking options out there.
#6
#7
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#8
#9
Thanks, I contacted TBP and he confirmed that it will work with the Pertronix system installed. I may also buy the H4 Halogen headlight conversion kit they have
#10
If you can afford it, go LED with the Headlights. I recently installed a set of the JW Speaker Evolution 2 LEDs on my truck. It is one of the best upgrades I've ever made to the truck. The light output rivals that of modern high end cars. I can see now. Power draw is 28w low and 42 w high (no wiring upgrades necessary). They are DOT and SAE rated, made in USA. They are modern looking so they don't look quite right on the truck but I'm willing to sacrifice that aesthetic for the safety.
It looks like Tom's sell the Evolution, but you can get the Evolution 2 (current version) cheaper on Amazon. Don't fall for the cheaper look alikes. They are made in China and do not compare.
This is a link to video 1 of 12 in a series comparing LED lights. There are other excellent, cheaper options, some that are ok and some that are outright junk. Check it out. www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qStRHOFRcY
These pictures do not do it justice. All that was changed is the light, just like changing the sealed beam, unplug the sealed beam, plug in the LED. No other changes made.
Sylvania sealed beam left, JW Speaker Evo 2 Right
Low beam top, high beam bottom
Notice how much more you can see to the left and right and how much more light you get with the high beam. The camera angle does not capture the full illumination of the high beam. I can make out the shingles on the roof of two story houses in my neighborhood with the high beam. I could barely see the houses, let alone the roof with the sealed beams.
In the road picture, the LED low beam lights up more than the sealed beam high beam.
It looks like Tom's sell the Evolution, but you can get the Evolution 2 (current version) cheaper on Amazon. Don't fall for the cheaper look alikes. They are made in China and do not compare.
This is a link to video 1 of 12 in a series comparing LED lights. There are other excellent, cheaper options, some that are ok and some that are outright junk. Check it out. www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qStRHOFRcY
These pictures do not do it justice. All that was changed is the light, just like changing the sealed beam, unplug the sealed beam, plug in the LED. No other changes made.
Sylvania sealed beam left, JW Speaker Evo 2 Right
Low beam top, high beam bottom
Notice how much more you can see to the left and right and how much more light you get with the high beam. The camera angle does not capture the full illumination of the high beam. I can make out the shingles on the roof of two story houses in my neighborhood with the high beam. I could barely see the houses, let alone the roof with the sealed beams.
In the road picture, the LED low beam lights up more than the sealed beam high beam.
#11
It's not feasible to add that one. It requires a drive mechanism. On 292s, tach drive distributors came in T Birds - expect to spend $700 or so for that. Even then, it may not work - I don't know if drive ratios were always the same or not.
Your best bet is an aftermarket electronic tach. There are quite a few vintage looking options out there.
Your best bet is an aftermarket electronic tach. There are quite a few vintage looking options out there.
It is very feasible to use this tach.
For starters, most ALL tach drives output the same number of revolutions per revolution. So yes, if you found a 292 tach drive dizzy, it would work.
Second option would be to use a Dakota Digital ECD-100 coupled with a SGI-8E. This would convert any electronic signal to a mechanical drive for your tach. Heck, you could even tap a "W" terminal into your alternator and run a DSL-1E to get a tach signal from your alternator.
#12
You're right. Feasible is possible, so it is feasible to use it. The better word is practical or even cost effective.
For a '64, truck, a '57 T-Bird distributor would be needed. Those tend to go for about $700.
Dakota Digital ECD-100 $299.95
Dakota Digital DSL-1E $69.95
Of those options, the DSL-1E is practical if it will work with his setup. Otherwise, it is not practical to use the tach drive tachometer when electric tachs are available at a fraction of the cost of the drive unit alone.
For a '64, truck, a '57 T-Bird distributor would be needed. Those tend to go for about $700.
Dakota Digital ECD-100 $299.95
Dakota Digital DSL-1E $69.95
Of those options, the DSL-1E is practical if it will work with his setup. Otherwise, it is not practical to use the tach drive tachometer when electric tachs are available at a fraction of the cost of the drive unit alone.
#13
You're right. Feasible is possible, so it is feasible to use it. The better word is practical or even cost effective.
For a '64, truck, a '57 T-Bird distributor would be needed. Those tend to go for about $700.
Dakota Digital ECD-100 $299.95
Dakota Digital DSL-1E $69.95
Of those options, the DSL-1E is practical if it will work with his setup. Otherwise, it is not practical to use the tach drive tachometer when electric tachs are available at a fraction of the cost of the drive unit alone.
For a '64, truck, a '57 T-Bird distributor would be needed. Those tend to go for about $700.
Dakota Digital ECD-100 $299.95
Dakota Digital DSL-1E $69.95
Of those options, the DSL-1E is practical if it will work with his setup. Otherwise, it is not practical to use the tach drive tachometer when electric tachs are available at a fraction of the cost of the drive unit alone.
#14
Which Tach Looks closer??
I have an opinion question....
Appairently there are 2 tachs that are made to look similar to the speedo; a single digit and a 2 digit.
The single digit one looks the closest, but only has 1 digit whereas the speedometer has 2 - 20, 30, 40 ect
The 2 digit one has the correct numbers but the center of the gauge is a matte silver whereas the speedo has a glossy silver in the center...
Maybe I am putting too much thought into this lol
Which one do you think looks better?
Here is a speedo for comparison...
Appairently there are 2 tachs that are made to look similar to the speedo; a single digit and a 2 digit.
The single digit one looks the closest, but only has 1 digit whereas the speedometer has 2 - 20, 30, 40 ect
The 2 digit one has the correct numbers but the center of the gauge is a matte silver whereas the speedo has a glossy silver in the center...
Maybe I am putting too much thought into this lol
Which one do you think looks better?
Here is a speedo for comparison...
#15