Am I reading this timing pointer right?
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,876
Likes: 4,115
From: Angier, NC
Even being a tooth off you should be able to get it timed right if you can turn the dist. enough.
You can have the dist. in 180* off and still get it timed.
The OP needs to check where TDC is then he can find a timing mark that works.
or
Why not set timing with a vacuum gauge?
Dave ----
You can have the dist. in 180* off and still get it timed.
The OP needs to check where TDC is then he can find a timing mark that works.
or
Why not set timing with a vacuum gauge?
Dave ----
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,636
Likes: 5
From: Orlando area
Is the 40 degrees you refer to at the Orange line?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,789
Likes: 26
From: Connecticut
IF you are on TDC, and take the cap off it should be pointing at #1 as indicated ON the cap.
If not, you can pull the dizzy, rotate the pointer, but not onto #1, 302's and 351's rotate counterclockwise, so before pulling, put a mark on the body where the rotor is.
Then when you pull the dizzy, mark where the rotor ends up, now you can see how far off #1 indicator you need to place the rotor to install the Dizzy. If done correctly the rotor will end up on #1
If not, you can pull the dizzy, rotate the pointer, but not onto #1, 302's and 351's rotate counterclockwise, so before pulling, put a mark on the body where the rotor is.
Then when you pull the dizzy, mark where the rotor ends up, now you can see how far off #1 indicator you need to place the rotor to install the Dizzy. If done correctly the rotor will end up on #1
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 640
Likes: 0
From: Dallas
its a brand new summit distributor I installed yesterday, and definitly wasn't frozen at all. the truck runs great when 14-16 is on the orange line, but if I'm reading the pointer incorrectly, than that is closer to 35-40 degrees on the correct part.
It appears that all i need to do is set TDC and check the balancer, and I'd venture to guess that 0 will be somewhere near that orange line.
I've never set timing with a vacuum gauge, so I'll have to look in to that
It appears that all i need to do is set TDC and check the balancer, and I'd venture to guess that 0 will be somewhere near that orange line.
I've never set timing with a vacuum gauge, so I'll have to look in to that
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 640
Likes: 0
From: Dallas
IF you are on TDC, and take the cap off it should be pointing at #1 as indicated ON the cap.
If not, you can pull the dizzy, rotate the pointer, but not onto #1, 302's and 351's rotate counterclockwise, so before pulling, put a mark on the body where the rotor is.
Then when you pull the dizzy, mark where the rotor ends up, now you can see how far off #1 indicator you need to place the rotor to install the Dizzy. If done correctly the rotor will end up on #1
If not, you can pull the dizzy, rotate the pointer, but not onto #1, 302's and 351's rotate counterclockwise, so before pulling, put a mark on the body where the rotor is.
Then when you pull the dizzy, mark where the rotor ends up, now you can see how far off #1 indicator you need to place the rotor to install the Dizzy. If done correctly the rotor will end up on #1
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
TDC IS TDC.
He is only trying to tell that the balancer marks are in phase with crank throw.
It also doesn't matter where he stabs the dizzy.
the inductive light is picking up the spark... and the spark has to be relative to the crank throw.
It just comes half as often.
As long as he has #1 wire, THAT is where the ignition is being triggered.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,636
Likes: 5
From: Orlando area
Is it possible that someone ( a previous owner) installed a different timing pointer assembly? Also, as mentioned the timing marks on the damper could have slipped. If they did that would mean the damper is bad (the rubber material between the inner damper and outer has failed). The best way to figure out what is going on is to order a "piston stop" tool from summit. That tool is used to find exact TDC.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
When I installed it yesterday that's what I did. However, today when I went to set timing the vacuum canister was pointing to where it wouldn't be very adjustable, so I removed the whole assembly, and rotated the whole assembly maybe 1 tooth till it slide in without having to adjust anything
360° ÷ 8 = 45° which is about what you say you are off.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 640
Likes: 0
From: Dallas
thats a very good point. Maybe I'll try that tonight when I get home
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,789
Likes: 26
From: Connecticut
If it is firing #1 on the exhaust stroke, that's a backfire through the carb?
The timing marks on the crank don't matter whether exhaust or compression.
TDC IS TDC.
He is only trying to tell that the balancer marks are in phase with crank throw.
It also doesn't matter where he stabs the dizzy.
the inductive light is picking up the spark... and the spark has to be relative to the crank throw.
As long as he has #1 wire, THAT is where the ignition is being triggered.
TDC IS TDC.
He is only trying to tell that the balancer marks are in phase with crank throw.
It also doesn't matter where he stabs the dizzy.
the inductive light is picking up the spark... and the spark has to be relative to the crank throw.
As long as he has #1 wire, THAT is where the ignition is being triggered.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
He said it runs well at 35-40°, which means the damper has slipped or the pointer is wrong for his damper.
I asked him to check tdc #1 against the damper marks. Which are *attached to the snout of the crank*.
Cam position has nothing to do with it.
If it was firing on the exhaust stroke, it would fire out the open exhaust valve.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,558
Likes: 69
From: New Zealand
Is the stock location for alternator? Did this truck get the alternator mod?
It looks like it is mounted where the air pump would go - and it should be in the upper location on that bracket (heater hose would, of course, not be coming out of bracket hole).
I don't know - I haven't seen everything.
It looks like it is mounted where the air pump would go - and it should be in the upper location on that bracket (heater hose would, of course, not be coming out of bracket hole).
I don't know - I haven't seen everything.