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Oil Bypass Kit Ford 6.0 Super Duty

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Old 04-20-2017, 06:59 PM
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Oil Bypass Kit Ford 6.0 Super Duty

I did a lot of reading on different forums and websites regarding oil bypass kits for the Ford diesel Super Duty. I found maybe 4 or 5 sites that sold a variety of kits but at 3 to 6 times more than I spent, I felt that price was more than I wanted to spend.

Reasons differ on why people install a bypass filter. You will have to justify yourself on whether to install one. Should you install one of these you do so at at your own risk. This is my setup on my 2006 F350 6.0 Dually...

I purchased a new oil filter cap from the dealership for about $23. I then drilled and taped 1/8” NPT to accommodate a 1/8" NPT x 1/4" JIC fitting.
I also purchased a oil fill cap from my local parts store for about $5 and drilled and taped 1/8” NPT to accommodate another 1/8" NPT x 1/4" JIC fitting.

I used this stuff to seal up the threads of the fittings.








I picked up two 1/8" NPT x 1/4" JIC straight fittings and drilled out a steel washer just large enough to fit over the threads of the fitting (13/32”). I added sealant and snugged the fittings to the caps. The washer helped in snugging the fittings down securely to the caps. These sat for a day or two to set up.

The caps with the fittings attached.




I got all my fittings and hoses from my local hydraulic shop. You could also try an implement dealer or maybe your local NAPA. These are the hoses I had them make up for me. There is a straight fitting on one end and a 90* fitting on the other. Your lengths may vary.


I had a chunk of angle iron left over from a garage door install that I attached to the alternator mount. In order for the filter to fit, I had to carve up the fan shroud. Be carefull, the shroud is very brittle.


I picked up the filter base from Amazon. It is a Wix 24775 Heavy Duty Filter Mount and comes with 1/8” NTP ports in which I have a 1/8" NPT x 1/4" JIC straight fitting and a 1/8" NPT x 1/4" JIC 90* elbow installed. It seems good and sturdy. The filter is a Baldwin B164 By-Pass Lube Spin-On Filter. It has a tiny outlet hole to only let a small amount of oil out in order to keep the correct amount of pressure in the oil pump.

The elbows on the end of the hoses snug up on the oil cap fittings after the oil caps have been tightly installed. When I want to remove the oil caps I loosen the fitting slightly so it will swivel. Don’t bother trying to manually fill the bypass filter with oil prior to the install, the oil just does not fill it like a normal full flow oil filter.
That is about it. Hook everything up and enjoy your bypass filter kit. In addition to the added filtering, my oil temp runs about 6 degrees cooler since the install.







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Old 04-20-2017, 09:29 PM
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Nice write up, my only bit of advice is to be sure non of that gasket sealer finds its way into the oil, IPR screen will find it.
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Old 04-20-2017, 09:58 PM
TooManyToys. TooManyToys. is online now
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I've done a Racor filter similar, but have the filter under the drivers foot and bring it back to the other valve cover. I get a little nervous bout the plastic cap though. I got aluminum caps for both my engine top filters and no worries about future stress failures. Just a thought. But nice work Ben.
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Old 04-21-2017, 05:35 AM
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Nice write up/install...although the weak link (the threads in the covers) is a little more than I'd be willing to accept, I'd want to replace those with billet. I have to ask...why would anyone want to do this? I know you said reasons differ, I am asking (anyone really) to hear some of those reasons. I'm a bit dense and need to have things like this explained a bit so as to clear it up. Thanks in advance for understanding my plight.
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Old 04-21-2017, 06:54 AM
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I pulled mine after I came to the point of accepting 5,000 mi oil changes. It was adapted from from 7.3 truck where long oil use could be done. Keeping one on a 6.0 could be a means of keeping the oil a little cleaner, in theory.
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Old 04-21-2017, 07:34 AM
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Gotta ask. Couldn't you same set up for a mini add on oil cooler?
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Old 04-21-2017, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TooManyToys. View Post
I pulled mine after I came to the point of accepting 5,000 mi oil changes. It was adapted from from 7.3 truck where long oil use could be done. Keeping one on a 6.0 could be a means of keeping the oil a little cleaner, in theory.
I've been holding back from posting because I don't want to knock the idea, because it's a great one for like a Cummins but on these engines all you end up with after 5-7000 miles is really clean broken down lower viscosity oil.
My father and both get our oils tested and his truck has the Amsoil by-pass system. He tried extending changes and the longest they suggested after running it for 10,000 miles was to drop down to 7,000. Then 5,000. The other day when we were doing brakes he said he's taking the system off and sticking with the 5,000mi OCI.
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Old 04-21-2017, 08:53 AM
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I don't get it. By adding this bypass filter, you reduce the oil flow thru the normal engine oil system. I use Royal Purple Duralec 15W-40 diesel oil and a K&N reuseable oil filter that I remove every 2500 miles clean and check the magnets for metal particles. I change my oil every 10K miles. Approximately 200 miles before an oil change I put 3 cans of seafoam in the oil to help clean the engine before the oil change. I also have a Fumoto valve that I open for 15 to 20 seconds while the engine is running so the suspended metal and dirt particles come out with the oil and don't collect in the bottom of the pan. 138k on the X and no turbo or injector problems.
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Old 04-21-2017, 09:28 AM
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It's typical for bypass filters to utilize a small orifice to limit the flow. Ben mentioned it in his post.

Having read mass quantities of lifter threads lately, I understand the concern about oil flow.
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Old 04-21-2017, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSMMH View Post
I don't get it. By adding this bypass filter, you reduce the oil flow thru the normal engine oil system.
The bypass is completely outside of the main oil system. The oil bypassed goes through the filter and back into the pan via the top of the engine so it doesn't affect the oil flow anywhere in the engine.

Quote:
Approximately 200 miles before an oil change I put 3 cans of seafoam in the oil to help clean the engine before the oil change.
That is probably one of the most "dangerous" things you can do to any engine. Diluting the oil with Seafoam or any other "snake oil" is literally the same as diluting your oil with diesel fuel, kerosene, gasoline , naphtha or other light mineral oil.

Anything that breaks loose, if it isn't caught by the IPR screen or HPOP oil screen depending on where it breaks loose, could get lodged in an oil passage leading to a bearing or lifter with catastrophic results.

Good luck on that.
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Old 04-21-2017, 02:07 PM
Blakshukvw Blakshukvw is offline
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Not to bag on the op but wouldn't one get better use of a coolant filter that usually resides where he placed his oil filter?
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Old 04-21-2017, 03:16 PM
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Depends on if you have a cooling system problem.
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Old 04-21-2017, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Blakshukvw View Post
Not to bag on the op but wouldn't one get better use of a coolant filter that usually resides where he placed his oil filter?
He has a coolant filter system too, in the same spot most kits reside.
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Old 04-21-2017, 04:45 PM
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And a coolant pressure sensor!

Haven't figured out the critter attached to the hood.
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Old 04-21-2017, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TooManyToys. View Post
And a coolant pressure sensor!

Haven't figured out the critter attached to the hood.
I have a coolant pressure guage in the cab.
The critter attached to my hood is the air compressor for my airbags.
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