What did I miss ? Might make the switch
#16
#17
I agree though, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Perhaps metal shavings could be a problem? Believe the oil in the diffs and t-case is synthetic.
#18
#19
Couple of items to maybe note or negotiate in:
Block heater
Supplement heater? Doubt they'd add but be good to know
Some type of bed liner
Prep package in bed
Also, if there is a vibration dampener on hitch drivers side, it probably went in for hop/vibrations at 40mph or some specific speed. Not a bad thing but gives you history
Block heater
Supplement heater? Doubt they'd add but be good to know
Some type of bed liner
Prep package in bed
Also, if there is a vibration dampener on hitch drivers side, it probably went in for hop/vibrations at 40mph or some specific speed. Not a bad thing but gives you history
#20
I've had to replace Brakes on my two trucks in the 60,000 to 80,000 mile range. But I tow a lot.
Batteries are almost always shot by 36 months
Front Bearings on my 2011 needed replacing at 105,000
Coolant is good for 105,000 and Tranny fluid for 150,000 but if the truck was under Severe Service ( ie trailer towing or extreme cold) they usually cut those intervals in half. Meaning both could be due for flush at 60-70k
Batteries are almost always shot by 36 months
Front Bearings on my 2011 needed replacing at 105,000
Coolant is good for 105,000 and Tranny fluid for 150,000 but if the truck was under Severe Service ( ie trailer towing or extreme cold) they usually cut those intervals in half. Meaning both could be due for flush at 60-70k
#21
I went and looked at the truck after hours last night (I don't like sales people)..
-Minor hail damage on the roof
-shocks looked to be the originals
-a few minor chips in the paint nothing major
-fenders, hood, tailgate, and bed all looked straight no visible signs of a wreck
-tires looked new
-bed was in real good shape
-overall in decent shape
I may go back for a test drive haven't decided....I'm a little concerned with 64k miles on a 2015 just a gut feeling I guess.
Thanks again for all the great info I am learning a lot here..
-Minor hail damage on the roof
-shocks looked to be the originals
-a few minor chips in the paint nothing major
-fenders, hood, tailgate, and bed all looked straight no visible signs of a wreck
-tires looked new
-bed was in real good shape
-overall in decent shape
I may go back for a test drive haven't decided....I'm a little concerned with 64k miles on a 2015 just a gut feeling I guess.
Thanks again for all the great info I am learning a lot here..
#22
Come on, a new OEM primary radiator is $438 and an aftermarket is only $168. The secondary radiator is $362 OEM Motorcraft. It isn't that hard to change a radiator, I'd be doing that job myself.
While I realize some have done pretty well on purchasing some kind of warranty, I'll be gambling. Have not had an issue on my previous diesel trucks, and I can do most work myself.
While I realize some have done pretty well on purchasing some kind of warranty, I'll be gambling. Have not had an issue on my previous diesel trucks, and I can do most work myself.
#23
Not to split hairs but you won't find an aftermarket primary radiator for a 6.7 powerstroke for $168. I just installed one for a 2011 from Carquest and it cost approximately $50 less then the Ford one. I could have gotten the Ford one from AutoNation but they are VERY hesitant to ship a radiator as they very often get damaged. The aftermarket one has a limited lifetime warranty
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