As part of my ongoing P1393 troubleshooting, I’ve found that I can’t get the main engine wire harness separated. The big connector by the driver’s side valve cover.

I’ve cranked and cranked in the correct direction, but the plug never separates. I tried a cordless impact wrench and it still doesn’t move. (Edit -- the bolt moves very freely, but it doesn't push out one side (e.g. like removing the PCM) I can't figure out how to separate the two sides.)

Any tips on how to get it separated? Can I cut off the bolt head to get it separated?

Thanks,
Mike

 

This one could be a problem but hopefully someone will come along with some tips and advice. I had one that I could not get apart, never did, even on the workbench knowing the thing was trashed and I just wanted to see if I could get it apart, no luck.

 

About all you can do is hold on to the bolt with a needle-nose tool (I have needle nose vice grips) and drill the center of the bolt head off. Once it's apart, you'll have another problem with putting it back together.

Don't cut the wires for any reason. While the connector(s) might not be salvageable, they disassemble quite easily and can be replaced without the need to rewire.

 

What he said ^^^^^

Helped a buddy replace his after a ID10t move on his part. I was able to stop him as he was about to reach for cutters. Saved a lot of time and headache.

 

Sounds normal to me. The bolt is held captive in the connector, as is the nut it threads into. Once the bolt is backed out of the nut it will stay there and spin and conveniently not get lost. Further loosening of the bolt will not "jack" the connector apart. Pry apart the 42 pin connector with a screwdriver or something. I think there's a tab to depress, not sure.

 

I'm having this same issue myself. It has prevented me from doing some diagnostics. I will be doing a drivetrain swap into a new(er) frame and cab soon, and this is going to be a big problem when the time comes. The most likely cause is that the female threaded nut has broken loose from the plastic housing ( probably from over-tightening last time I put it back together, and its just spinning inside with the bolt. I've had mine apart before. I know the screw won't "jack" the connector apart. Mine simply won't come loose.

Sounds like a life-saver there, as I was contemplating doing that ( and dreading it). So, a.) how do I dissemble and re-assemble? b.) any source for new connectors? I'm especially interested in the "body-side" connector of the 42 pin, as I think I may have already damaged it. I have a spare harness, with the connector, but no spare for the body side harness.

 

You don't need the body side harness, just the bolt replacement and the engine side harness.

 

Actually, I might need the body side; at least the connector. In my frustration to diagnose an issue, I took a dremel to the "tower" on the connector connector, around the bolt. I thought that if i could get a screwdriver under the flange on the bolt head, and put some outward pressure on it while turning, maybe the screw would come loose. No such luck. The connector is still attached, and I probably didn't do any real damage, but with all the work I will be doing soon, I would prefer to have everything nice and "perfect"; which would require replacing that connector shell.

So, anybody (Tugly or otherwise) have a source for new connector shells for both sides of the 42 pin connector?

 

I have not figured out this problem yet. I got past my original issue that needed the wire harness removed, but I know I'll eventually need to do this.

If I remove the bolt head is the connector repairable or do I need a new connector?

 

The connector housing on the truck side should be fine unless it was damaged during removal attempts. The connector housing on the engine side is toast - it is the part with the threads in it.

 

Yeah, but isn't the bolt itself "captive" in the body side connector? In other words, if you have to cut the head off the bolt, to get it apart as Mike321 suggested, then wouldn't you have a problem just replacing the bolt?
Maybe I'm just having a hard time visualizing this. How would you propose, exactly, getting the two halves separated while doing as little damage as possible?

Also, again, does anybody know if the connector shells are available as a replacement part?

 

When dirt and sand particles get between the two connectors, it acts like a cement. You could try soaking the connectors with a penetrating fluid. don't use a water based fluid, it could cause corrosion.

You may find corrosion in the actual wire pins and sleeves if you get them apart. If there is corrosion, it may contribute to the difficulty getting them apart.

Cutting the bolt head off will not make it easier to separate the connectors, since as you observed, the bolt is captive in the body side connector.

I don't know if new connectors are available, but there are devices called "separable connectors" that are used in industrial wiring installations to accomplish the same task of making connections while also allowing the circuits to be opened up for testing or isolating.

These separable connectors are not cheap, but they are probably not much more than a Ford part, if it were even available.

Tugly (Rich) or others with more recent experience with these devices could weigh in with their opinions as to a substitute, if there is no actual Ford factory part available.
Larry

 

Once the bolt head is drilled or cut out, the bolt is no longer captive. I think they sell that 42-pin connector new. If not, let us know.

 

I don't know about the OP, but that is not my problem. I have had it apart several times in the last couple years. It was put back together with some di-electric grease around the perimeter. I'm confident mine is not corroded. Its just the stupid bolt.

I'm still confused here. If I cut the head off the bolt, will the body side of the connector slide over (and off) the now headless bolt, or not?

Huh... I guess I just had to Google it:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-3L-Ford-42...ank Connectors


I do wonder about the quality a bit though.

So lets say I buy these replacement connectors. What is the process, and tools, needed to safely remove the wires from the existing shells and insert them into the new ones without damage, and without having to solder any new pins on?

 

Yes, it will slide off the headless bolt.


First - document the holy hell out of your wiring configuration. Take pictures, write down color codes, buy a wiring diagram, hold a seance... whatever it take to make sure you don't cross wires. You firing order is in that connector.

Second - peel the backing off the connector, it's a silicone membrane that seals the wires. Once that's back as far as it will go, you can see inside the connector.

Using a jeweler's screwdriver (or was that a tiny needle-nose - I can't remember now), you can gently release the lock for each pin in there, and they just slide out. Leaving the old membrane on will keep the wiring order, if you can trust it to keep on sealing. Just make sure that you make note of how the old connector is keyed and approach the new one with the same orientation.