Blown Heater Core
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Blown Heater Core
I have not been able to drive the truck lately due to classes. Today I took it for a spin and the heater core which was replaced a couple weeks ago is leaking (not from the hoses, but the core). The PH is between 8 and 9 and the voltage of the tank is .00 to .02 while off and between 0.02 and 0.08 under full load at high RPM's, but they seem to be decibels of the max voltage wanted of .4. I touched the battery and it has 14.4 volts so I know the multimeter is on the correct setting. I also got some negative voltage around -.02±. I ordered a new 13lb radiator cap to see if that helps. What else could cause this to blow so soon after replacement? I got the part from O' Reilly's.
Sorry in advance if my replies are slow, finals are coming up. Thanks!!
Sorry in advance if my replies are slow, finals are coming up. Thanks!!
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
What are you trying to say??
Volts has nothing to do with a heater core and it leaking.
What is this "PH" you talk about also as I have never heard of it on a heater core?
Now the cap could have something to do with the leaking heater core but being it is new I would not think so.
My guess on the core leaking, when installing the hoses you broke the nipple from the main core.
It could of been from a bad joint and not take much to break it.
You will need to pull that core back out and check it / replace it.
Dave ----
Volts has nothing to do with a heater core and it leaking.
What is this "PH" you talk about also as I have never heard of it on a heater core?
Now the cap could have something to do with the leaking heater core but being it is new I would not think so.
My guess on the core leaking, when installing the hoses you broke the nipple from the main core.
It could of been from a bad joint and not take much to break it.
You will need to pull that core back out and check it / replace it.
Dave ----
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I've read that electrolysis can cause Hester core failure and you can test this by checking for voltage in the radiator. Another thing I read was that a blown head gasket could cause this and it could be tested by checking the PH where it would be under 7 if this was the case. The core was under warranty so I'll trade it in and be a little more careful and see if it happens again. Thanks!
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Had never thought of testing like that. Interesting. But I'm not sure I would put all my faith in it. Instead I'd get a replacement under warranty.
Assuming you have fresh coolant in it, my guess is that it was a bad heater core out of the box. And that's also assuming that you didn't man-handle it by pulling/pushing on the tubes.
Assuming you have fresh coolant in it, my guess is that it was a bad heater core out of the box. And that's also assuming that you didn't man-handle it by pulling/pushing on the tubes.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,876
Likes: 4,115
From: Angier, NC
I've read that electrolysis can cause Hester core failure and you can test this by checking for voltage in the radiator. Another thing I read was that a blown head gasket could cause this and it could be tested by checking the PH where it would be under 7 if this was the case. The core was under warranty so I'll trade it in and be a little more careful and see if it happens again. Thanks!
The testing may work if it was an old core and old coolant but they do wear out and need to be replaced now and then.
Had never thought of testing like that. Interesting. But I'm not sure I would put all my faith in it. Instead I'd get a replacement under warranty.
Assuming you have fresh coolant in it, my guess is that it was a bad heater core out of the box. And that's also assuming that you didn't man-handle it by pulling/pushing on the tubes.
Assuming you have fresh coolant in it, my guess is that it was a bad heater core out of the box. And that's also assuming that you didn't man-handle it by pulling/pushing on the tubes.
It still needs to be replaced even if the testing tests good.
Dave ----
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: NJ
I've had the cheap $20 Chinese thin aluminum cores fail in anywhere from a few days to about a year. After going through at least 3 of them it wasn't worth the hassle even with free replacements under lifetime warranty. I tried flushing the coolant system and checking for electrolysis but all I could figure was the Chinese cores are typical Chinese quality. Buy a FoMoCo brass core and call it a day, it'll probably last a few decades.
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Had never thought of testing like that. Interesting. But I'm not sure I would put all my faith in it. Instead I'd get a replacement under warranty.
Assuming you have fresh coolant in it, my guess is that it was a bad heater core out of the box. And that's also assuming that you didn't man-handle it by pulling/pushing on the tubes.
Assuming you have fresh coolant in it, my guess is that it was a bad heater core out of the box. And that's also assuming that you didn't man-handle it by pulling/pushing on the tubes.
Well the way I look at it a bad leaking core is a bad leaking core so what ever testing you do will not fix it.
The testing may work if it was an old core and old coolant but they do wear out and need to be replaced now and then.
Kind of the point I was trying to make above.
It still needs to be replaced even if the testing tests good.
Dave ----
The testing may work if it was an old core and old coolant but they do wear out and need to be replaced now and then.
Kind of the point I was trying to make above.
It still needs to be replaced even if the testing tests good.
Dave ----
I've had the cheap $20 Chinese thin aluminum cores fail in anywhere from a few days to about a year. After going through at least 3 of them it wasn't worth the hassle even with free replacements under lifetime warranty. I tried flushing the coolant system and checking for electrolysis but all I could figure was the Chinese cores are typical Chinese quality. Buy a FoMoCo brass core and call it a day, it'll probably last a few decades.
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What are the differences in HC1 HC2 and HC3 heater cores? HC 1 is a lot cheaper and Rock Auto does not explain.
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I've read that electrolysis can cause Hester core failure and you can test this by checking for voltage in the radiator. Another thing I read was that a blown head gasket could cause this and it could be tested by checking the PH where it would be under 7 if this was the case.
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From what I read electrolysis will destruct the radiator as well, but it takes longer because it is more heavy duty. That being said, I agree that it would still take much longer than a couple of weeks to eat through the core so I do not think that was my problem.
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