Well, back to the drawing board I guess. Unplugging the sensor made no change, as you suggested.

I suppose now I ought to look at wiring the valve open. I see quite a few people talking about doing this, but I've not been able to find instructions online. Is there a set of instructions anywhere that you know of?

 

its not electrical wiring


Using steel wire, metal coat hanger to keep it open


IIRC the tang should be against the stop


or take off the down pipe and drill/grind the rivets of the valve off

 

I understand it's not electrical wiring.

This can be done without removing the turbo, right?

 

Yes. Just wire it around the post on the valve shaft and wrap it to something solid. I'm doing it on mine just to be on the safe side. I don't use it often in winter and can wait for heat still.

 

Thanks. I'll look in to getting it done this weekend and report back.

 

Here's a quick video to me they sound alike

 

Not quite the same. Different idle sound (to my ear) my oil and coolant are clear, oil cap doesn't blow off, no CEL, etc. Different issues, I'm confident. Mine idles smooth, and it's dropping RPM because the engine is automatically defueling due to high EBP values. I'm pretty sure that's where my issues are stemming from.

 

The valve comes off with three 12point 5/16 bolts. The down pipe should lean over enough when you remove the clamp. The actuactor is attached with a spring socket to a ball on the arm that is attached to the valve.

Remove the valve drill the two wee rivits holding the plate to the shafts remove the plate and stick back together.

Another thing in your photo the engine bay is very dirty. Have you pressure tested the charge side of the system for boost leaks? Primarily thinking your plenums are leaking. And the orange boot going to the turbo is known to crack and let unfiltered air into the engine.

I found a small boost leak in my intake and thought, that isn't too bad it can't make that much difference. Boy was I wrong. Cleaned up the area real sealed the plug and WOW! I have to re train my self on the skinny pedal.

 

No, I have not checked anywhere for boost leaks, but it is something I've been meaning to do. Highest boost I've seen is about 13 psi, which seems low to me, even for a stock truck.

 

My stock truck sees 20 at around 3000 rpm in third

 

Exactly why I need to check mine for boost leaks

 

Well I'm happy to report that I think I've come to a solution on this cold run deal. I could watch the butterfly valve closing under throttle when it's cold, and after wiring it open today, it drove perfectly normal from a cold start. We'll see if it continues, but I suspect that it will.

As for the boost leaks, I got the tool built this week and just need to test it. Hopefully tomorrow; serviced four wheelers all day today.

Thanks for your help, all.

 

I wired mine shut and big difference.
They should not do this but it's been reported in quite a few threads and now we have more confirmations.

Next thing to try might be armature clearance. I have a set of shims waiting for some free time to install on mine.

 

Yeah, I really don't understand how it can be moving at all with the actuator plug disconnected, but weirder things have happened.

Now to chase a pesky fuel leak and boost leaks...

 

Fuel pump, bowl seal kit and new fuel hoses fix most of them if the hard lines are not leaking.

Hopefully the boost leaks is an easy fix. I replaced all three of my boots and the turbo o ring.

Might test my plenums under pressure once my compressor is wired up.