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01 F250 no codes crank no start

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  #16  
Old 09-14-2018, 04:51 PM
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Have you checked the battery voltage while turning the engine over or just a static check? Also make sure that you did not put a kink in the fuel line when replacing the tank. It is possible that you read good fuel pressure when not running but when trying to run there may be more demand than available pressure.
 
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Old 10-04-2018, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by hydro man 17
Have you checked the battery voltage while turning the engine over or just a static check? Also make sure that you did not put a kink in the fuel line when replacing the tank. It is possible that you read good fuel pressure when not running but when trying to run there may be more demand than available pressure.
Thank for your reply, yes, cranking at 11.9 with glow plugs engaged, brand new duracell, industrial batteries, fuel is fine, I have since discovered part of the no start issue, I have a .940 short to power, on several sensors, IPR, CMP, but the ICP also has this issue, which essentially is telling the PCM that there is oil pressure at key on, which dumps a DTC, the IPR is not actuated, No Start.

I have traced it back to circuit, 361 all the way through the firewall, this backfeeds through the PCM, to the ICP, additionally I cannot generate High Pressure Oil, even with a command to close the IPR valve, but it is a brand new T500 when I first installed it, It leaked, so I sent it back for repair, I am told that Joey said it was fine, but obviously that is just not the case. I plan on dead heading the pump with a block, to remove the IPR signal issue, to test just the pump for pressure.
 
  #18  
Old 10-06-2018, 03:08 PM
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Are you sure that the drive gear for the HPOP is properly engaged? I think that it is possible to reassemble the pump when the drive gear(s) are not fully engaged. I am certain that someone will correct me if necessary.
 
  #19  
Old 10-06-2018, 05:04 PM
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i’d bet money it had a dead HPOP which was the original no start issue, getting them to run after installing a new HPOP is a real PITA. it isnt uncommon for people to burn up a starter trying to get the air out.

using Forscan or the like make sure you are getting 500 psi out of the ICP and your RPMs are at least 100. once you hit those marks and it isnt starting you can look else where
 
  #20  
Old 10-15-2018, 02:51 PM
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Boom, yes, Pirate4x4 you are dead on right, the HPOP new T500 is defective, but cant seem to get Joey in any way shape or form, its ghost city for Joey and the T500 unit, pulled it after completing air test, today, found pump full of metal fragments, very small for the most part, along with some very fine metal that appears to be coming from the internal part of the pump.

Called, the company I ordered the pump from, (sent in my old core) they said that they were unable to reach him, that he had a very high failure rate and that he refused to honor warranties, provide parts for repairs, basically they stated that they no longer were selling the T500...

My problem is that I turned in my old core, got the T500 chased ghosts for months, then broke down and purchased the testing equipment I needed to verify that the HPOP was in fact bad. now, I have a bad T500 that most other vendors will not accept as a core. Kind of frustrated... Hoping I can at least reach the guy at some point. Truck is still no start, but now I know why...
 
  #21  
Old 07-24-2021, 09:41 PM
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Motor swap

Originally Posted by reelstuff
I actually had to stop on this project for a good long while, just ran out of money, but I have started back on it last month.

Starting back from the IDM, ran all the pin tests, all looked, good, (just for the fun of it, I actually purchased another IDM, (still no start)

Ran all pin tests, for PCM, I did get a 1678 but it turned out that the PCM harness was not completely tightened, after I did a pin test, to check the PCM.

(I was getting some indication that it might be the PCM but never a complete test that gave a complete demonstration of a bad PCM)
but hey, I ordered another one, (plugged it in, (was supposed to be plug and play) went backwards.

No WTS, no PCM communication, no fuel pump, so...

Plugged back original then got PO475, PO340 P1210,

installed new ford OEM, CPS, ICP, IPR, (packaging still had ford motorcraft, packaging so I am 100 percent confidant those products are good)

cleared DTCs, KOEO, 475, 340, 1210,

did pin test for 340, shows good, RPM shows up at PCM shows up on tach, Oil pressure 2300, good, fuel pressure good, 50psi, RPM 245 to 278

but no fuel, no white smoke,

Called three shops in my area, all three said, Powerstroke? No, sorry we dont work on no powerstrokes, when asked if anyone in the area did work on powerstrokes, heard some guy, yell
"Hey John, you know anyone that works on powerstrokes?" John, say, Nahw, no one round here does, might have to go to atlanta ga...

Anyway, over a year, now, still no start, (done replaced every single part on this truck, except, for the alternator, (which I took off and had tested, LOL, its good)

Now I am wondering if by some strange situation the timing is actually off, since it does say bank1 or sensor and I know it's not the sensor.
Thinking about doing a motor swap switch to the12 valve Cummins
 
  #22  
Old 11-20-2021, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by reelstuff
I purchased this unit, non running, was told the HPOP was bad, after going through the unit top to bottom, Im stumped, below is a list of items serviced and or replaced with OEM parts.

0. changed oil and oil filter
1. Terminator 500 Hpop
2. New ICP
3. New HPOP lines.
4. New starter and solenoid
5. Serviced Turbo (rebuilt with new parts and WW wheel)
6. Serviced Injectors (shimmed) all test good.
7. new pass and driver harness, UVHC replaced, glow plugs replaced.
8. new heavy duty GPR
9. Tested IDM no issues.
10. Hutch mod on tank (re-circulator was stopped up) deleted it, added inline filter.
11. serviced fuel bowl with new parts, upgraded parts on fuel bowl new blow off valve, new drain valve, tested heater all good no blown fuses.
12 replaced faulty fuel pump

Might be leaving something out of this list, the truck has run but only for very short periods of time, (hence the dropping of the fuel tank)

fuel pressure at 70 psi, some white smoke, connected to on board computer, checked every conceivable possibility No DTC codes, my gut tells me it has to be fuel related but at this point I just have run out of things to check.

I have tested everything with a fluke multimeter, including the IDM and all the circuits to the 42 as well as all the way to the injectors and glow plugs and find nothing wrong all tests yield valid readings,

There may be other information available but my after market scanner does not show any issue, KOEO buzz test results good.

The three times I have had this unit running it was dumping lots of white smoke, however after the last round of dropping the fuel tank and replacing the fuel pump the white smoke has dropped to a minimum, but cannot get the truck to run, cranks, wants to start, almost starts, got it up to 800 RPM last try but just will not go beyond that point.

I cannot find anything wrong, must be something I am either missing or its something my cheap scanner can't pick up on.

Any thoughts suggestions, rambling accepted, thanks in advance.
I have a 99 7.3l and It has always been a pain to start. It would turn over until batteries die. Especially when it sat for a couple days. I have tried everything. Finally someone told me that the starter that comes on them and the ones replacing them are not as strong as they should be. I bought a starter for about $240 that hasn’t been out long and it turns it over really fast. It’s only been a day so time will tell, but so far I’m am so happy after years of issues.
 
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