My cousin has figured out with grounding and testers and lots of hours and tries that I need a new fuse box to replace 3C3T-14A067-AP on 2002 F250 SD SuperCab 4D XLT auto 7.3L diesel 1FTNX21F32ED54794

Its an under dash. I cannot find an exact match anywhere. I can find xCTC-14A067-yy where x is 7 or Y or something other than 3 for first digit, and

yy is ED or BG or something other than AP.

The Fits your vehicle lookups and attempts to find what part of the fuse box part number means year, or 7.3, or under hood/dash and other sources of compatibility have failed me.

2002 F250 sitting dead no power. Can anyone please either reliably suggest if 7YCT-14A067-AP or 3CTC-14A067-ED or other variation will be OK to use to replace my dormant 3CTC-14A067-AP, or at least fix me up to a chart explaining what digit means what? FUSE BOX THANK YOU!

 

I looked up your truck on car-part.com and it claims a fuse box from a 1999 thru 2006 will work.

 

What is exactly wrong with your fuse box? I know some of these later fuse boxes have embedded relays inside them, and some of the later ones have circuit boards and are part of the communication system of the truck.

 

THANKS! Cousin technician says fuel pump relay - non-serviceable in the fuse box - not coming on, no power. Seems might be a common problem this model from a water leak (shorted out) - don't have any signs of a leak, but a very vigorous power washer and degreaser effort might have fried it somehow. IDK.

Seems like there are under hood version of fuse box and under dash as well (which this is) I suspect not interchangeable so worried a bit about maybe $200 to try something used that "might fit". I also heard "most of the stuff in that series and year" is interchangeable, but also cousin said something new in 2002 might make it not so likely. Hence trying to get as close a part as I can (to 3CTC-14067-AP, very few even near-matches) or some assurances from you kind folks! - Thanks!

 

Might be of general interest. Computer and all seem fine, he can get wait for starter, turn-over with ether or some other trick, just fuel pump (which checked out) won't get power. Found complete (green w/ yellow) circuits and wiring and inertia box and all suggesting its def the fuse box not behaving properly. Its obvio I'm a duffer he's the tech. Thanks! Peace!

...oh, and the under hood fuse box GEMS cannot be swapped with an under dash one, so getting this right (as possible) seemed important

 

We have had some posts on here where the embedded trailer tow running lights relay has also burnt out. With a little re-wiring and another relay wired outside the box, it can be a work around. Some people have even printed out this procedure and taken it to the dealer and they have said it will work, don't know if they convinced them to do it or not.

First thing I would do is make double sure he is on the right track. He may have done this and I missed it, but I would run a hot wire to the darkgreen/yellow that feeds the inertia switch temporarily and see if the truck will run. Look at page six in this link.

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=29302

If that works, then I would take a meter and measure the voltage on the lightblue/orange leaving the fuse box, going to the computer. When the engine is cranked, this wire should ground out and make the relay inside the fuse box click on. If it does not ground out, then the computer may be the problem. You can ground this wire manually and if the fuel pumps run and the truck runs, the computer is the problem.

If the computer is not the problem, what I would do is go to the store and get a Bosch type relay you use for foglamps(around 30 amp relay would do). Also buy 2 fuse taps.

First look at page 6. You will see power for the relay comes from "D". D is located on page 3. Go up to page 3, you need to plug in a fuse tap into fuse 22. This only has power when the ECM relay comes on. Run a wire from the fuse tap at 22 down to the new Bosch relay coil.

Go back to page 6. Plug in another fuse tap into fuse 40. Run a decent sized wire, at least 14 gauge from this fuse tap to one of the contacts of the Bosch relay.

On page 6, find the lightblue/orange that leaves the fuse box and goes to the computer, and cut this wire or just splice into it if you don't want to cut it, and run this to the other side of the coil on the Bosch relay.

On page 6, find the darkgreen/yellow leaving the fuse box feeding the inertia switch, and run this to the other side of the contacts on the Bosch relay. You could also just run a 14 gauge wire from the bosch relay and tie it to the inertia switch.

So you have a new relay piggy backed onto the original circuits to do the job on the internal relay. Like I said, we have done this before with the trailer tow running light relay and it works fine.

 

Once again, thanks so much Dave! I have passed all the excellent material and suggestions on to cousin...

...I think he did all (or most) of that already, but good to make sure. I was there (helping trace the darkgreen-yellow wire and all,) but not all the times he worked on it.

He has a nestegg of relays and fuses he toyed with. I know he did the hot wire splice and all, ruling out the computer in the process. He had the fuse box diagram on phone screen as a guide all the time, etc. His exact words were he " ran a straight to the fuel pump to make it come on but it still wouldn't come on".

The piggyback idea may be new, and perhaps a Godsend. So we really are appreciative of your interest and effort. We also have a friend at the Ford dealership that might do (an Oasis? Ford?) parts lookup tomorrow for compatibility issues (for 3CTC-14067-AP) in case we end up with that route left. THANKS!

 

Sorry, he just saw and corrected my reply, HE:

"ran hot to fuel pump and fuel pump DID come on, just couldn't get the truck to start... like maybe wasn't activating the injectors".

Thanks!

 

The embedded fuel pump relay started for the 2002 model year. A box out of an older truck will NOT work.

 

Hi SHO89. THANK YOU! Lotsa sellers claim otherwise of course on Bay and such (selling an 01 as "FITTING 99-03" and such).

(For 3CT3-14067-AP) But I'm focusing on 2002+ parts now. Seeing some 2005 yanked 5C3T-14067-AE under dash ones for example listed...

Wondering how I should evaluate what it came from (if not exact match of course). Is 2005 an OK match for 2002? Does the unit have to come from a 7.3 since I have 7.3, or can 6.4L work,etc? As I try to get "closer" the more I can learn from experts what supposedly will or won't match is very helpful! (And what part of the PART.NO. means what). Thanks!

 

Seeing a 3CTC-14A067-EC on a 2003 SD; says FITS 2003-4. Doesn't say 7.3 or under-dash or anything. - and I see pic, it does have the A in 14067. And I think I have been making a typo here, its 14a067 I think. Losing my mind, sorry. Gotta go double-check... F250 is up the road an hour away.

 

closest so far is: Ford F250 F350 7.3 Diesel Fuse Panel Box 1C3T-14A067-AC
with a May 2001 date on the part.

Might be OK for my 2002 4wd-4 xlt F250 SD 7.3 under-dash, or not. seems my CORRECT part nbr is 3C3T-14A067-AP

Most who list a part from 99-01 are good enough to say "fits 99-01". some says fits 99-03 and are probably misinformed. All of course tend to say check your part nbr carefully to confirm fit. LOL.

 

sorta sorry never mind thanks you... cousin is at vehicle just sent me a picture. its 2c7t 14a067 ap. I see some here have searched that and some here have explained the digits in same thread. gonna get easier now I hope. will report. thanks.

 

yep finding several whew. gonna get one and report findings. ty. 2c7t 14a067 ap

 

in case anyone else gets here on a similar search, here is our forums posted answer to legend of digits, fyi: