110-124 tells us the head gaskets are not leaking. I'd run it around a bit to flush out the inside of the block then change the oil again. Especially the filter. This poor rig has been neglected that bad sounds like you better do a real good inspection. The full brake system. In the drums, rubber hoses, metal lines, M/C, etc. Repack wheel bearings. All rubber under hood. COMPLETE tune up. Etc. The whole schmeer. This way it's safer and you've got a starting point for it's new life.

 

Yup, always do the obvious and simple stuff first, and the routine maintenance. Was the freeze plug gone or just rusted through? Gone might mean it froze up and possible cracked the block. If it is rusted through, I would replace them all.
I also never take an old vehicle out on the road until I have at least replaced everything that's rubber in the brake system and flushed the lines.

 

Leaking intake gaskets will give you moisture in the oil as well. X2 on changing oil and filter and running it a bit before you determine anything.

 

I did do an oil change and I plan on running a bit when I get the freeze plug in. It looked like it probably rusted out, because the other ones werent popped or anything. Once the engine status has been determined I will then replace the feeder hoses and all that. Thanks so far.

 

Sometimes a block will freeze and crack and none of them push out, rarely do they all, and most often just one or two. If it was completely missing, it didn't just rust away. FE engines are also know to crack in the valley.

 

Well then should I use the block as a boat anchor then? If its cracked then its just a big pos then right?

 

Im gonna put a freeze plug in, run it and see what it does.

 

Good plan. It'll have to be a big boat for an anchor that size.

 

Well its not like I want to, but theres not much I can do to it if its cracked right? I was reading a thread earlier about repairing cracked blocks.

 

I have some good news, put in two new freeze plugs and it was holding water good. I pulled the dip stick and the water-y brown stuff left over was evaporating off, leaving the oil looking much better. It didnt seem like there was a lot of flow looking in the radiator while it was running, or that it was building a lot of pressure. I drove it around town and felt the hose, it was soft still, and not hardened up. So maybe I didnt drive it enough or the water pump is going out eh?

Side note, it misfires like hell but runs good and I love the old t18 in it.

 

Cool, watch the hoses. They can just give out. Being soft doesn't mean they are good.

 

Like Brian1971f100 said watch the hoses! They start going bad on the inside. The radiator takes a 11PSI cap, and the water doesn't flow real fast at idle. With all that iron, it takes a while to heat up that big engine block. But once it's warm it's like a cast iron frying pan, lots of heat everywhere.

 

Well, that is somewhat encouraging. Now to find that miss. It's pretty simple to determine which cylinders aren't pulling their share by removing plug wires (at the cap unless you want jolted) and seeing which ones the engine sound doesn't change on. Also a simple matter to do a compression test or use a vacuum gauge when diagnosing.

 

Am 11psi cap eh? Did not know that. Thanks guys. Im feeling a lot better so far lol. Ill drive it around a bit more and report back. The temp gauge was reading a bit past cold but not in the middle yet. How hot do you think the outside front of the heads should get? 185f or more right?

 

Be a good idea to drain and flush the cooling system before too long. Change the thermostat and hoses. Don't forget about the heater hoses.