Can we move this to the v-10 forum? More information there.

 

More likely than the oil pan is failed timing chain tensioners. There have been issues in the 3V engines with tensioner seals failing, which cuts pressure to the entire head of the offending bank. Unfortunately it's all academic at this point, if you heard that much noise, it's probably not even worth digging into unless you're curious when you get it on the engine stand.

Agree with DKF, the start of the damage is going to be the camshaft journals, which is likely what you heard rapping. I'd be looking for a used engine at this point.


Yeah, that's probably a good idea. Moved to the V10 forum.

 

Tom
Are these tensioners a maintenance item? Does anyone replace these on a regular basis? Mine might be due.

 

You usually don't have to touch tensioners unless there are known issues with the year of engine with bad tensioners.(like on some of the older 4.6l engines) They usually go for the life of the engine if you do your oil changes regularly. You'll usually hear them if they go bad or start going bad. From what I am seeing the main culprits of the failed seal at the tensioner on the 3V V10s were from 11'up models. To monitor oil pressure I don't put any faith in the OEM oil pressure gauge. I have a full sweep electrical gauge on mine.

 

DKF, can you give details on your gauge install? Did you use the factory sender, or add one?

 

I added another sender in the same location as the factory sender. I made a fitting for two senders that screws into the stock location out of stainless schedule 40 pipe nipples, a T and a 90. I tig welded the joints so nothing rotated or leaked. This way both the stock and aftermarket gauges worked. THe gauge is in a pod that slips over the steering column right in front of the wheel.

In this thread there is a pic of the sender T on a 2V. His sender T is more simple than mine but works the same.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...in-my-v10.html

 

Coming back to this post for more help...


If after the original failure the truck suddenly started sounding more "like a diesel" exhaust note wise....what could this be indicative of? What parts could have failed to change the sound of the motor like this?


I haven't pulled the motor yet, or decided if I will even bother saving this truck due to lack of free time....but trying to still try and figure out "what happened".


Thanks

 

Spun bearing(s)

 

why does this change the sound just curious?

 

The looser they get, the more they rattle.
But that is just a guess on the bearings, could also be valve clatter.
It has been my experience that when a typical gasoline engine runs out of oil or bottoms out oil pressure, usually the rod bearings go before the mains.
On most engines the oil is usually pumped into the mains first, then the rods, then top of the heads for valves cams etc. The valvetrain usually doesn't require as much volume so it will survive (momentarily) longer than the rod bearings.
A quick lubrication 101:
The spinning parts of an engine are not supposed to touch, ever. They ride on a hydraulically pressurized oil film that maintains clearance while the spinning parts do their spinning thing.
When the oil goes away and the parts lose that thin film of oil cushion, the parts rub creating friction & heat. The bearings will then distort from the close tolerances they had and get pushed out of its mount and become wadded up and break. If the engine is still spinning at this point, the rod bearing (for instance, all speculation here) will bounce against the crankshaft journal which makes a knocking sound; where before there was no knocking sound because before it ran out of oil it had a precision engineered cushion of oil on which to ride.
Well that ship has sailed.
1. no cushion
2. spun bearing
3. knocking sound
4. broken parts/ seized engine

But like I said, this is speculation based on the description given.
The best way to know for sure what went wrong is tear it down and autopsy it.
Definitely don't drive it until it locks up, that will cause more damage.
With that said, I am also interested in hearing a video of it running.
Or if that is not possible, watch some Youtube videos of engine failures such as "spun rod bearings" or "blown out spark plug" etc. to compare the sound of the known engine failure to the sound that yours is making.

 

Thanks for the reply - yeh I pretty much would either put a reman in this thing or get rid of it. The motor has got to be toast at this point.


As far as remans go - I've done some reading on different brands


I've seen in the other thread suggestions to go Ford reman vs jasper etc.


Where would you price out a Ford reman - are we talking dealership here? Or is there some other source?


I was looking at one through Autozone. Any reason to stay away from something like that?


Thanks

 

A change in exhaust sound would probably indicate cylinders misfiring, but I don't know which diesel exhaust you're thinking it sounds like. If the engine sounds rattly up front then probably bearings & such as has been covered.

As for the oil pressure gauge conversation. The factory 'gauge' is basically an idiot light with a needle, one of Ford's stupidest ideas for the consumer but apparently it stopped lots of warrantee claims. It has only two positions, normal and nothing. The gauge itself is still a gauge in most vehicles and just replacing the oil pressure switch with an actual sending unit will make it work as expected from a needle. In some there's a resistor in the gauge cluster that has to be bypassed. This is all from reading, haven't actually done the swap myself, but have seen them working.

 

I have no idea who autozone gets engines from. Generally speaking you're gonna get what you pay for quality wise, but some just charge more for a longer warrantee and hope it doesn't come back. Many machine shops do installation if you don't want to tackle it yourself, another upside is that the whole thing gets warrantee vs. just a warrantee on the motor and you have to pull it if it fails under warrantee. Some junkyards do installation if you decide to go with a used motor. As for motors that interchange, those in class A motorhomes and I think the medium duty trucks have more power, but I don't know if that's just different programming or if the engines are actually different. Junk yards have lists showing interchange of parts that should be reliable.

Seems odd that this thing had such a failure, but you never know what the previous owner did to it. I've known people who went 40k miles without an oil change.