What are these items? First is a plug that reaches to about the AC compressor, with a black wire and a brown/white wire(it's dirty so br/wh is best guess)



And bare with me cause I'm having trouble with pics and first gen iPad. But 2nd item seems vacuum related. Never had a hose on the open end since I've owned truck though. Pic is also crappy. Looks like a black apple, you can also see the open end better in one of the pigtail pics.

 

 

AC compressor is plugged in and the plug is different. AC doesn't function though.

 

First one looks like the a/c clutch coil connector. It plugs in right behind the pulley at the front of the compressor.

Second one looks like the muffler for the air injection. No hose one the other end. But I'd need to see the wider angle to tell you for sure.

 

I'll have a better look after work tomorrow for a hole to stick that plug. I need a freakin stepstool to do anything but add oil to this truck. Muffler for air injection is about the most legit thing I've ever heard that black job called. I wouldn't know why that's necessary though. Thought it was a closed system.

 

Its for the air going into the air pump... Quiets that down...

Scott

 

HeavyE85 you were right about the plug. As for the muffler apple thing, Right again. I traced all that AIR junk around best I could and from what I saw I want to pull it all out. I can't see much behind the engine though. Fermunda, it doesn't appear anything enters exhaust stream AT the cat, but I couldn't see much else once the y-pipe went up.

I assume the pipe leaving the AIR muffler that heads to the firewall, does enter the y-pipe somewhere. Maybe I'll shove my phone back there with the flashlight on and video recording. That helped me find the Tague Lumber pencil hiding behind my blend door, and the mouse nest in my bilge last spring.

In all the looking I found I had missed a clamp on the heater core hose at the intake. The slow drip would puddle on the valve cover until enough could roll over and land on the hot manifold. I think it'll be nice to not have burnt coolant stinking things up now.

 

The air injection will go into either your exhaust manifolds or your cylinder heads depending on the year. You can take it all out but if you don't want a check engine light then you simply leave the solenoids connected (just the electrical part, you can rip out the vacuum lines) and the PCM will think all is well with the air system.

 

A, is for Awesome, where's my distributor lock? I'll scrounge the jy for one next time but the corrosion keeps it in place alright.
B, is for But what goes in this hole(hard to see) in the front of the lower plenum? If anything.


ECT Sensor?



A, to PCV?
B, to MAP Sensor?



E, for extremely useful connector not hooked up to a missing AIR Solenoid? You can see there was one, sometime, from the wear mark on bracket. Not sure where the solenoid would get its vacuum from, though the tree has a capped port. Nothing else in the bay seems like it is missing a line or two...



With the red lines hooked to it, is this the vac reserve for AIR/EGR Systems?



W, for what's this doohickey and its purpose? I noticed one of the lines t's into two, in it's run from here to the driver side of the throttle body.
Also, breathed on white vac line while testing EVR thing on top of the EGR, chasing a code 332(EGR opening not detected)



M, is for MAP sensor?
C is for, could this be backwards or busted and the cause of my defrost only hvac issue?



And check out this little golden nugget. Never a cooling problem but always a COOLANT problem. First with the water pump, which turned into a months long, walked away from it, every bolt broke including one that holds the lower plenum on BUCKET OF FUN. Then with a poorly installed lower rad to pump hose by yours truly(7psi cap slowed the leak cause I had ENOUGH of repairs), and at the same time but didn't realize til this month, missed a clamp on a heater hose.(I did water pump over 5 years ago).

After buttoning up those two, oversights, in recent weeks, I guess the system holds enough pressure to exacerbate this little guy. Hey little guy, I see you back behind the driver side motor mount. Pissin all over the street like you're excited someone knows you exist.
(Not sure if I can do this from the ground with mount pulled out, or if the engine has to come out. Any thoughts?)


Now, I could let you guess why the freeze plug and emissions junk is related. But I'm not going to waste any more of your time. After fixing the 2 known coolant leaks, I decided to put some gas in the truck(drive it enough to keep battery up mostly, and to work in snow) and pick up a code reader at the AZ down the road, thinking it may be useful when I try to get to the bottom of the high idle, and falling on its face condition when trying to accelerate with any gusto. You see, I guess until now the engine never warmed to operating temp enough to trigger EGR opening, or some component decided to take a dump on me, ON THE WAY TO BUY THE CODE READER. I've never seen the check engine light on, in 20k miles of driving this truck, aside from bulb checks at key on. Not until now.

So I've been reading up plenty on 332 and testing the related components and checking for leaks and I want to make sure I know what is what, before going forward. And if I need to find one of those AIR solenoids and where to plumb lines to and from, for it. And anything else that jumps out at you from the pics. Don't be shy. Distributor lock is important I know. Could NOT twist distributor today though by hand, on a cold block, at least. And I plan to get after any further brittle vac lines soon, as well as questionable rubber hoses, before attempting to figure out idle/stumbling problems.

Oh, final thought:
KOEO 111
CM 332
KOER 332
All at operating temp.

 

[QUOTE=Willigaf;17084105]I'll have a better look after work tomorrow for a hole to stick that plug. I need a freakin stepstool to do anything but add oil to this truck.

Go to Amazon and type "folding step stool". Man they are great. Very lightweight and sturdy. Just grab the handle on top and it folds flat. I'm thinking about buying another and have it for both sides of the engine compartment so I don't have to move it back and forth. I am 6'1" and I only have a 1 1/2" level on front and it is a PIA to work in the bay without the stool for me and my back. Regards Sandy

 

9F483 = EGR Pressure External Valve Assy.

 

Pic2: Yes ETC.
Pic3: Yes for both.
Pic4: Based on what can be seen in that pic this is an F250 or bigger which means it only had one thermactor solenoid to begin with.
Pic5: Dual vacuum resovoir for all vacuum systems.
Pic6: Canister purge solenoid, vents gas fumes collected from the tanks in the charcoal canister into the engine when the computer commands. Also visible in this pic is a broken white vacuum line.

 

Thanks guys. Long day today. And Sold my boat!

Paul, it is a 250 but I'm curious what else lead you to that conclusion. And if you just reply "years of experience, young man", I accept haha.

If you can get a better look at the AIR solenoid bracket, it looks like where the 2nd solenoid would clip on shows less exposure to elements than the rest of the bracket. Thats not to say this is the original engine or harness. I always find something that makes me think, "you know that just doesn't seem right".

Anyway if the 250 only gets the 1 AIR solenoid, is it TAB or TAD? And should I assume the harness is compatible with a lighter truck that DOES require the other solenoid? Not really important, just curious.

I mentioned breathing on the white vac line in pic 6, that's when it blew off into the sunset. It runs from the reservoir to the EVR(?) solenoid in pic 4. Since I'm throwing a 332, and that line was obviously a problem, AND the EVP sensor(also pic 6)seems to check out according to the tomco tech tips, is it likely the white line is the cause of the EGR not opening? EGR valve moves freely with a screw driver. And the diaphragm holds vacuum with a mityvac, but I didn't try to leave it on there long.

I'm glad I don't have to deal with that 2nd solenoid

And Sandy, Im 6'3. 33 years old. I found a stepstool hiding in a family member's basement, that I used as a child to be able to reach the faucet and brush my teeth. Little red job with the words sit down to be small, and, step up to be tall. It MAY be 6 inches tall, and it's just enough to where my gut rests on the fender and gives me the full range of arm motion in the bay. Keep it in the truck box all the time. Sometimes just too lazy to get it out haha.

 

That big valve and all that plumbing on top of the motor you can see in one of the pics, that is all hidden down beside and behind the motor on a 1/2 ton. Beats me why Ford just Had to do it differently on the HD trucks.

The bracket may not be original to the truck, the version of the AIR system found on these HD trucks uses a single TAB/TAD combo valve which only requires 1 solenoid.

If something in that system isn't correct you will get a code for it.

Yeah that would supply a stead vacuum to the EVR solenoid, without that the valve won't open when commanded.

 

Man there are a handful of you guys that would render this place useless if you went away. And you sir, are part of that crowd.

Naturally, you have brought another question to mind. If I was to toy with deleting the EGR at some point, what I would like to do is sandwich a plate between the valve and intake, plug the vac lines, and leave the electronics in place. From what I've read, I thought that would leave me with no blinding CEL. But from what you just said, it seems like that may not be the case, unless in doing what I mentioned, the signal to open never happens anymore. I think you can glean I have a concern for not seeing the CEL, even though I haven't directly asked a question here.

Assuming I get the EGR operational again, I have no reason to remove it, for the time being. But, there are some non-smog long tubes nearby for $50 in new condition.