I'm getting around to dealing with the ghosts in my '48 F1's cab..

After several attempts to salvage my cab floor and fire wall and given my level of expertise, tools etc., I finally gave in to my common sense and purchased a complete cab floor and fire wall. So while waiting on delivery and looking for a welder, I'm screwing around with the rear of my cab which is not in great shape either. I purchased the rear cab corner patch panels and got things to where I believe I should be able to make a good evaluation and plan of attack..

BUT..not without out first checking with my FTE friends..

Where would you begin cutting for the patch panels & how would you handle the middle

of the lower rear cab damage?

 

That's alot of sheet-metal work no answer for you as to were to cut but wouldn't it be better and a lot cheaper to get a different cab?

 

New cab?? What would that cost with shipping?? Where would I get one and, if it's not new who's to say it won't have issues as well with additional costs? Will it come with a dashboard that will fit my gauges..if not then what?

So far I've invested $1019 for a complete new LMC floor pan & fire wall and mounts etc. with free shipping.
Plus another $100 or so for rear cab patch panels

Granted still have to pay someone to weld it in for me but still..I'm at a disadvantage because my skills are limited.What about additional brackets/braces/gussets etc. which are probably inevitable with these sort of things? welder won't want to be bother with that..then what?

Anyone else care to chime in? Does he have a point? Just asking and not trying to be argumentative..looking for my best options. Thanks.

BTW..is there such thing as a pre fab fiberglass cab like they offer for fenders etc?

 

You've got a good start on repairs. If you have good metal on the cab, I would only use the portion of the patch panels that you require, as opposed to cutting the cab to where the patch panels reach. Remember that when trimming metal away, you always cut excess material away, but it is difficult to add material if you are short.

The centre bottom portion of the cab will require fabricating some sort of patch from 18-20 gauge metal sheet. I would try to make a template from poster board type of material. You can get inventive and form the metal clamped over a 2 x 4 or similar. That middle section is a rounded 90 degree edge so you may have to form your bending jig to replicate the rounded edge. As for the curved portion that mates to the cab lowers, you may have to make those separately and weld them to the centre portion later. Experiment with cardboard templates first, then cut metal to fit.

If you are doing the welding yourself, good for you . Maybe tackle some straight floor section tacks at first until you get a feel for welder settings. If your fitup is good , you shouldn't get too much blow through, unless your current setting is too high.

Hope this helps.

Edit: Just noticed you are going to job out the welding. Wish one of us was closer to help out.

 

Here is where I'm at..

 

It's probably too late, but you need to weld in temporary braces across the door openings and side-to-side.

 

Is that the only way to square a cab?

Previous post: I choose to measure rather than brace. I have seen many cabs that were never square from the factory so bracing only preserves them in their out of kilter state. Even if that wasn't the case, it is far easier to do your repairs and while tacking in the new panels just measure and tack. Here is what my last cab looked like while I was replacing panels...no bracing, no problem.

 

I do agree with you on NOT bracing the cab but you have to be real gentle with how it's moved around if at all. Some times it works in your favor not to so you can manipulate it around before you weld the floor back in. As far as a new cab I've never seen one but out west we can find really nice cabs under $500.00 but they are getting more scarce by the day. Since you're playing around with such a structural part of the cab you may want to look into taking a welding class at a local college. I think your into it this far so just take your time and finish it.

 

I agree with Ross on the bracing but since you have not and since you have invested in the patch panels you are going to have to do a lot of measuring and remeasuring and measuring again. Remember that the cabs are built based upon principle locating points on the floor and firewall. In other words they build the floor and firewall first. Since you have cut all that out you need to recreate that structure. I would use your frame mounting points and then find a good cab and take some cross body measurements to key points from the top of the firewall to the rear of the cab floor, perhaps the rear seat bolt holes. You will need an inclinometer too to double check the results.

Once you have that structure stabilized with tack welds then you can fit your old structure to the new, tack it and then mount your doors and adjust the structure to fit. I would suggest that you then add your temporary cross bracing (lots of good pictures here on FTE).

You should be aware that not all the patch panels are dimensionally accurate. It all depends upon where they were made and how well the stamping dies were maintained.

I agree that I would look at taking some welding classes. Also there are lots of videos out there on body repair techniques.

 

Unless I were a very good welder or convinced I could become a very good welder quickly, I would find a better cab, offer the patch panels to someone on here and cut my losses.
That said, I commend you for taking this project on.

 

By the time you pay someone to do the welding, you could have purchased a nice small mig welder capable of handling sheet metal. I would recommend a welder that will go to 1/4 inch metal. A little practice and you will be up and running. Just don't attempt to learn on the project, go to a body shop and ask them for a hood you can take home, cut up, weld, and return. When you are replacing panels with patches, my rule of thumb is to replace as much of the "pitted" sheet metal as the patch panel will allow. If you can not see the back side of the piece you are repairing, there is high risk of rust coming thru in those locations after your project is completed. Before you invest in a welder, find a friend who has one and do some hands on welding with sheet metal. It may not be something you want to take on, but its a worthy option to consider if you want to learn the trade, do the work yourself, and save a ton of money in the long run.

 

Yea..Ross has never steered me wrong..my problem is I'm always behind the 8 ball.
More than once I've gone ahead doing something before asking/researching the pit falls of what I'm about to do.
Oh well somethings never change..I learn things the hard way.
Should have known that the cab needed to be braced before I cut away the floor and firewall.

As I may have mentioned before , I don't have the skill level to approach things in a sensible manner..On the job training..without a trainer is the best way to describe why I get into these predicaments. New firewall and cab floor on its way.

I'll let you guys know how I make out..

What a drag..

 

You're not screwed as it stands, as long as you make a lot of measurements. No question it will be harder without the door openings locked in place, and the cab mounting surfaces locked down. We learn by pushing the boundaries. You are pushing yours.

If the repro floor pans and such were made exactly to the original dimensions, it would be a lot easier, but it seems like most of them are off, and not always in the same way.

 

F-1. Cutting the cab loose like you did is not good, however, it is not catastrophic until you weld in the firewall and floor boards. You need to find an original cab to take measurements from and get your frame set up square to get measurements center to center in all directions for the cab mounts. My personal preference in making cab supports is to use square tubing with a nut welded in the end of both ends. Then take a piece of all thread or bolt with head cut off and make brackets that will bolt to existing holes on the cab. That way you can "dial in" square and get it perfect until you have the cab firewall and floor welded in. Look at it as a set back, not something that can not be corrected.

 

Hey F1,
Hmmmm... If you look at the cab as it currently sits...You don't have much. The floor is gone, the firewall is gone, & all across the back is rotten or gone.You have more in the LMC floor parts than it would cost to get a decent replacement cab. Hmmm...

Our 1950 F1 was in pretty similar shape.. We saved our cab but it was truly a ton of work. We braced the cab but the door openings moved any way & were a major pita to get right again using hydraulic rams... and the passenger side still doesn't shut right.

Honestly I'd send the parts back to LMC & find a nice cab in the Southeast & spend a weekend to go get it from wherever it is. You'll save 6 months & be a lot happier & you can concentrate on other challenges. Welding & grinding on a cab for 6 months & playing with those warped door openings...

We also were not happy with the fit of all LMC panels we ordered... not even close. I hate writing this as it's discouraging for you..but I'd go get a nicer cab.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1