My power locks haven't worked for years and now the drivers window also stopped working. The motor turns when you push the switch, but the window does not go up. If you push up with your hand at the same time it slowly slides into place.

I took apart the door and pulled out the motor. Inside the housing the triangle shaped gear just spins inside the larger triangle gear. In all the grease it looks like cracked and flaking pieces of plastic that might have broken down over time. Is there a replacement part for this or the whole housing needs replacing?

Now for the locks. The switches are working, and power is getting to the actuators, but not moving them. Not that it matters because it was disconnected from the clip and hanging from the rod connected to the latch. Do these just burn out?

 

More Information for DORMAN 74410

found these gear plugs on Rock Auto, and could be what I need. If these gear plugs break down it could be what the plastic bits in the grease were..

 

That's them.

You can also find those plugs locally. I found some at Advance Auto for about $8. There are three plugs in a package. They fit into the corners of the triangle. Clean out all that grease, put some fresh lithium lube in there with new plugs (they are a tight fit), and your motor should last many more years.

 

I was able to source them locally 12.50 for a 3 pack, so hopefully be able to get the door put back together next week..

 

The power lock actuators are also "easy" to replace. Pain in the butt to reach & mount, but overall fairly straightforward.

They seize up and just don't work with age. I got replacements online for my front doors and replaced them myself (first time for such things) and the locks now work great.

 

Thanks. Since it is all open I decided to address it now. The one in the drivers door has come out of the clip and was hanging loose. I managed to pull it up but wasn't able to disconnect it from the linkage. It looked like I might need to remove the latch mechanism screws from the outside to get a better angle of attack..

 

If the motor clip mounted to the door is still in good shape, you can snap the new motors into place, if not, you will have to drill out the 1/4 inch rivet holding it in place.
If you dont have a rivet gun for 1/4 inch rivets (standard doesnt go that big), you can use a 1/4 inch stainless flathead cap screw and an nylock nut to remount it. Make sure the lock mechanism works freely before you put a new lock motor in or it will struggle to actuate the lock. I have used these motors, and they do fine if the linkage and mechanism move smooth. Paste this in the search window on Amazon.com
Evan-Fischer EVA24872063863 Door Lock Actuator Set of 2 Rear Passenger or Driver Side RH LH



4.3 out of 5 stars




Price: $27.76 & FREE Shipping

 

Thanks. I believe I had already changed to a bolt a few years ago when I swapped in a different door. The donor truck was a custom and therefore had manual locks and windows so I had to move all the door and window hardware from my original xlt door.

Do I need to pull out the door latch to unhook the lock actuator? Right now Im fiddling around in there with my hand and it feels like the end of the rod has 2 tight 90 degree bends keeping it hooked into the lock mechanism. I am able to tilt it up about 90 degrees, but can't get it to slide out...

 

You might have a little more luck pulling the retaining clip for the lock cylinder and pulling the door cylinder out to give you another angle of manipulation. This will also give you a chance to lube the mechanism. Be patient!