My friend has a 2006 6.0. Blew up the egr cooler and oil cooler and now the oil is full of coolant. Brown muddy messy muck. Oil cooler is out but I'm sure the coolant oil mixture has circulated so it's probably in the HPOP and the rails to the injectors and probably in the injectors too. Everything after the oil cooler is probably contaminated.

So, aside from draining the oil from the pan and sucking up the oil mix from the top of the block, (under the cooler. ..it's out but not the hpop) how do we get this flushed out without destroying anything else?

 

Did your friend flush the coolant system with a blown oil cooler still installed?

Trying to understand how the oil system got so contaminated. Usually the leak is from the oil into the coolant (for the most part).

 

Us too! Lol. Are you saying water in the oil cooler is not a normal failure? To my knowledge there was no oil in the coolant. To answer your question no he did not flush the coolant system. How else would coolant get into the oil like this?

 

The oil cooler does fail - all too often. However, you usually see muddy/coagulated coolant (think chocolate pudding) because the oil is at a higher pressure than the coolant (except when the engine is turned off and the coolant system has residual pressure).

Excessive water (to the point you described) in the oil is not a typical failure, at least from what I have seen.

Hopefully those more experienced and knowledgeable will jump in!

 

Well, this is what I would do if it was my truck. I'd buy a Ford cooler and a cheap garbage cooler. Put the garbage cooler in first and run it and flush it with cheap oil. Also flush the coolant system.I'd use one new Motor craft filter and wash it in diesel fuel and then blow it out. When it's clean I'd Chang e the cooler again and fresh oil and filter. Then put a good coolant filter on it if it does already have one.

 

I had to replace my oil and egr cooler. Had to do the oil cooler twice.
The first time on the oil cooler the outlet cover for the egr cooler had some corrosion on it. I cleaned it up but it was still pitted a little. I put it back on that way, huge mistake. The oil cooler cover had more pitting on one of the coolant sealing surfaces, I put it back on after cleaning it up. Also, where the block and oil cooler cover mate, there was some corrosion under the o ring.
Anyway, it only lasted 5 months then I had a mucky mess in the degas bottle, so had to do it over.
First time, I used a cheap oil cooler. Second time, I got a Ford cooler ($300).
So, second time I got a new egr cooler outlet cover and a new oil cooler cover. I also buffed and cleaned up the corrosion on the block. So now, 6 months later, it runs fine.

As far as flushing goes, plan to spend a lot of time at it. You can flush with the busted cooler, but you won't get it all out. I'd do it anyway, then replace the coolers.

Once you replace the coolers, you will need to flush again. I know there are a lot of flushing agents out there, but the one I used did a great job, but it takes a long time to get it all out.

It is a messy, time consuming job. That's why shops charge so much to do it.

Good Luck!

 

Keep in mind that as you change the Oil, there is probably three+ quarts remaining in the motor in the Oil passages and in the reservoir for the HPOP(0.97qt).

 

The entire oil system holds 18 qts. 3+/- qts held up in the system.

 

You don't have to fill it to flush the oil, 10 qts max, then use cheap oil for the multiple flushes. It's a waste to use anymore oil.

 

That's what he did. Put it back together and then he'll run it and flush it out. SURPRISE!! He put it back together and now has a crank no start... and with the mess we cleaned out, who knows where the problem is... It was running fine when he found the problem. The symptoms to begin with was lot of white smoke out the pipe. Checked oil, saw mud. Now that the new (used) parts are in, no start... I haven't had time to check it anymore, so no other ideas right now. I'll put the scan gauge on it and check all the normal electrical things.