Hey fellas,

So today my dumb self rounded off the brake bleeder valve on the front driver's side caliper. I had to crack the hose at the connection point to get enough pressure to release so I could compress the piston in the cylinder...it was *just not* moving. Well, once I cracked it I was able to get the piston in and remounted. This, of course, meant I needed to bleed the brake. Total no go since the valve made out of butter decided to round off.

I tried PB Blaster, I tried heat, I tried vise grips. Now I have half a bleeder valve. I plan to try again tomorrow, but is my only option to replace the caliper?

I've also got quite a ridge on the rotor...is there a way to tell if I still have some life in them or should I just replace them as well?

Thanks gents,

-Matt

 

Best option is to replace the caliper, rotor and the brake pads.

The caliper is bad if its sticking that much, and if you ridged the rotor chances are it cannot be turned out, and would ruin pads over time.

 

Well dang.

I didn't ridge it btw, it was the previous owner. Everything was neglected on this poor gal before I got her.

Need to do the rear diff soon now that I think about it.

 

At the very least, I'd replace the rotors. Mine had a nice ridge on them too, and I didn't bother trying to turn them. They're cheap enough that it was not even a second thought.


If you can drill out and extract the damaged bleeder, you might be able to simply buy a new one and be good.

 

but if the piston is sticking he should just replace it while hes in there.

 

i would definitely replace the caliper. as for the rotors, i have turned them when they are to that point before, but many shops will charge a good $25-30 apeice to turn them, so i would definitely consider replacement. if you do decide to look into turning, the shop that turns rotors will be able to mic them and see if they are within machinable tolerances.

if you are replacing one caliper, i would suggest you inspect the other caliper as well. my philosophy is that if one is near failure for whatever reason, the other may not be far behind. this is also a great time to inspect the brake hoses on the front and replace them if any cracking is found.

 

[QUOTE=OldGoldie;17065035]Hey fellas,


I tried PB Blaster, I tried heat, I tried vise grips. Now I have half a bleeder valve. I plan to try again tomorrow, but is my only option to replace the caliper?



Hey Matt. The worse that can happen at this point is you get new important parts. If you have a six point or more socket that will fit close to whatever you have left on the valve you can try this. You need to hammer it on and turn the valve with it, so that is the socket size you need with at least six points. I also think I remember you saying you had a hand impact. Might work, I don't know. Sandy

 

I would just go to Autozone and replace it all.

 

Hi,
Yep if the bleeder is that bad the caliper and rotor are crap too!

Did you repack or replace front bearings???????

Also buy a can of "never-seiz and use it!!!

 

Hey folks,

Thanks to everyone for the great advice.

I definitely understand replacing the rotors; they need it certainly.

I didn't think the calipers were bad as the seals looks to be in great shape - I just figured there was too much pressure in the lines for me to be able to compress them. Other than that darn bleeder valve.

Regardless, new rotors will be going on and I'll be repacking the bearings while I'm at it. Likely a new caliper(s) as well - if I can't get that darn thing out that is.

 

This is incorrect. You should be able to push the piston back in with a pair of large channel locks or a C clamp without much effort. Either the piston is sticking in the bore and/or the hose is restricting the flow back to the master cylinder.

 

I was hoping someone had mentioned this as I was reading. If cracking the hose fitting at the caliper enabled you to compress the piston without too much effort, the hose is bad.

As for new calipers; they can be found fairly cheap at rock auto most of the time as reman units (if you can wait). I bought two loaded calipers with Wagner thermo quiet pads for less than $40 a few years ago. Check out your drum brakes out back too. Wheel cylinders, shoes, and spring kits aren't expensive but will make the brake system feel pretty solid.

 

hey fellas,

Sorry for going MIA there. Busy week and then my family flew in...

That said, I was able to get the bleeder valve out and replaced. I'm going to get a new one on order along with the rotors though!

Thanks everyone for their assistance with it!