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New Oil Filter Design (Internal)

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Old 03-25-2017, 04:54 PM
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New Oil Filter Design (Internal)

FYI to everyone...Apparently some filter makers are moving to a "louver" style of hole inside the tube of the oil filter. Turns out Ford is making this switch too (rumor is Purolator makes the filters; I haven't verified). A few pictures have popped up on the internet of poorly formed vents/louvers that are still closed, so people are having fun on BITOG looking into new filters to see if they can find any issues.

I was in need of a reason to buy another tool (in this case, an oil filter cutter), so I set out to pull apart an old and new design FL-500S and see the internals.

Here are some pictures. The old (hole) design is on the left and the new louver design is on the right. All the parts shown are from their respective filter (left/right). Other than the tube in the middle, all the other components felt/looked exactly the same.

I also nerded out and measured the total area that each design allows for oil flow. The 71 holes in the old design total 1.35 in-sq, while the 310 louver cuts total 1.77 in-sq (about +30%).














 
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Old 03-25-2017, 04:58 PM
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Also...all the louvers appeared to be well formed and functional on the new design. There's also "internet momentum" to dislike Motorcraft filters right now because some claim there are quality issues and the filter medium is tearing. I've yet to see ample evidence, but I haven't been following this stuff too long. The filter mediums both looked great...
 
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Old 03-26-2017, 02:31 AM
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I've looked at a couple of FL-400S & FL-1A's the last two days at 2 of my local Wally Worlds, the newer stock FL-400S are now using the louvered center support/return tubing design & it seems the FL-1A is still using the hole type center tubing.

I've always opened the box to inspect my filters before leaving the store with them & would suggest doing so, as I've found some wrong filters in the box, some missing the sealing gasket, anti-drain back valves askew/off center, some that rattled when slapped in the palm of my hand, ( there shouldn't be any noise from loose parts in a filter) apparently the dome end/out of sight tensioner spring that loads the filter element to keep it tight against the base plate & anti-drain back valve, got knocked askew when the filter was sealed & yes I've seen some of the new design louvered type center tubes with the louvers barely open & some not open at all,(this would cause the filter to operate in the bypass/unfiltered mode), so inspect Every oil filter you buy before leaving the store & maybe again before using that puppy.

EDIT: I've also found some of the FL400S filter media metal end caps to not be bonded to the filter media adhesive, as the end caps just fell off on disassembly. That of itself, from a operational stand point isn't disturbing, as long as the tensioner spring keeps the assembly clamped together it won't leak oil around the filter media, or won't move around off center with vibration BUT it is indicative of a process control problem, like end cap parts not properly cleaned, or bonding adhesive recipe problems, or application temperature control problems & that's not a good sign.

A pen light helps to see down in there, so take one along when going to purchase a filter, to make sure the louvers are open.
 
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Old 03-26-2017, 09:11 AM
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Interesting...see if you can get some pics next time you find a bad filter. Good to have multiple sources for info and pictures to help highlight the issue.
 
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Old 03-26-2017, 10:18 AM
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I've always cut open my oil filters & have been using the specified Motorcraft FL-1A & FL-400S oil filters on my rides but have yet to find a tear in their media, or other part defect.
Have seen some that I didn't like the Wide folds either side of the media seam seal, but they didn't tear in my use.

A couple of years ago I broke tradition & fell for a Havoline synthetic oil/filter combo deal & used a Purolator Pure One on the Taurus 3.8L for a one year/2K mile oci & when cut open, it had a small tear in the usual reported spot, at the base of the Wide spaced media pleat fold, just before the seam seal, at the base plate adhesive bond line. Not a catastrophic failure, but dang, only 2K miles on the filter, using 5W-30 synthetic that has really good low temp flow numbers & this vehicle is driven gently.

From the internal parts & assembly looks, it's thought that Purolator/now Mann-Hummel owned, still makes the Motorcraft line filters to Fords specifications.
It's thought that Champion Labs/made the Ford factory installed filter line, which so far I've not seen any reported problems on.

Lots of ownership buying & selling & merging has been going on with filter companies in the past few years, so quality problems seem to have arisen with some folks, as their ownership has been bounced around, not good for us consumers. So we need to keep a weary eye open for observable quality problems on the products we buy from these companies, until they get things sorted out.
 
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Old 03-26-2017, 05:28 PM
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Interesting. You'd think Ford's quality standards would transfer between filter mfgs, but maybe not. I'm about 5 weeks out from my next oil change and looking forward to pulling open that filter.
 
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Old 07-27-2017, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by onug View Post
Interesting. You'd think Ford's quality standards would transfer between filter mfgs, but maybe not. I'm about 5 weeks out from my next oil change and looking forward to pulling open that filter.
BUMP:
Well onug did you cut that puppy open yet, if so, what did you find?
 
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Old 07-27-2017, 09:25 PM
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Thanks for the reminder. I completely forgot I'd posted here about the filters.

I posted my results here: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub.....#Post4392238

Basically, my filter looked great. No issues at all. I'm running a Fram Ultra right now, but will be switching back to MC filter in Sept when I change my oil again.
 
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Old 07-28-2017, 01:08 AM
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Nice post, filter media looked good & it seems their vendor may have done some work to close up the fold spacing at the bond line, as the gap is better/not as wide & the fold spacing around the media looks uniform & that's good.

I'm running the slotted center tube Motorcraft FL-400S on the Wifes Neon 2.0L. No problems noted with the new slotted center tube design. Starts are quiet, like the center tube with holes FL-400S, but it'll get cut open in Dec on the next oil change & she usually puts around 4K short trip miles on one, so we'll see how it holds up.

The FL-400S is a oversize filter for the Neon engine & Ended the start up knock it always had when using the specified "shorty" Chrysler filter, that looked like it belonged on my 21hp Briggs V twin lawn tractor engine.

I've not yet found a Motorcraft media tear in any of the FL-400S on the Neon sohc 2.0L, or Taurus push rod 3.8L, or FL-1A filter on my push rod 4.0L Ranger.
As all of my oil filters are mounted inverted, I prefer Fords specified open/base/threaded end bypass valve design oil filters, so continue to use Motorcraft But I have Always cut filters open for inspection after use.
 
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Old 07-28-2017, 06:42 AM
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There continue to be occasional filter posts with torn media. As you mentioned, it seems to happen when there's a large spread in the first pleat after the seam. Especially when the seam is reinforced with a metal strip. This is where stress will naturally form and I'm not surprised the tears always happen in this area.

In all fairness, the most seam to happen with Purolaters but it's not universal. And there have been plenty of MC branded filters looking just fine after long oil intervals. At the beginning of this thread I talked about poorly formed louvers and even that issue has gone away lately across all brands and price points.
 
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Old 07-28-2017, 10:16 AM
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The One time I chose to use a Purolator Pure One PL20195 on the 3.8L Taurus, on a Advance Auto synthetic oil/filter combo deal in 2012 I believe it was, it suffered a small media tear in the usual place, at the base/glue line, of the first Wide spaced fold on the filter base end.
That filter had holes in the metal center tube & the Bonded seam/NO Metal Strip at the seam bond & that filter only had 2K miles in a year, using the specified viscosity Synthetic Havoline 5W-30.

I've used the Pure One PL10241 on my lawn tractor Briggs 21hp V Twin for the past 11 years & Never had a tear in that model Pure One. BITOG members have reported that model to be one with regular media tears, but not for my 21hp Briggs.
That filter is mounted horizontal & is the largest/longest filter I can use that doesn't contact the engine cover.
When I cut them open at years end, they've Always looked brand spanking new inside, like they've never been used for a seasons mowing of about an acre each session, in some really warm weather here in SW Va.

Since the louvered center tubes are showing up in increasing numbers & some louvers have shown to be barely open, or not open at all, If I have to choose a louvered center tube filter, before purchase I shine a light in there to inspect, to make sure they're really open & nothing is off center, the gaskets are in place & that the filter doesn't rattle when smacked into the palm of my hand. Of course make sure the Right filter is in the box too, I found a swapped filter once at Walmart.

I'm curious about the slotted center tube FL-400S on the Neon at it's change out time in Dec. I'll cut that puppy open & see if any difference inside from the 400S with the hole type center tubes I've been using. Been using the over sized FL-400S on the Neon sohc 2.0L, 8 years now & as I've reported, it's Eliminated the start up knock that engine always had when using the specified "shorty" Chrysler filter.
 
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Old 07-28-2017, 08:08 PM
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Don't get me started about Walmart. I bought a bunch of oil from them and it had been returned previously with either water or used oil inside the 5-quart jugs. When I told the clerk about the issue when I returned it, she just shrugged. I'm almost positive she put it all back on the shelf. Others have had the same problem at Walmart and lately guys are finding oil filters have been swapped too. Opening the box and shaking the filter is an absolute must. I've been ordering all my filters and oil (I've got a stupid amount of oil right now) off Amazon and been very happy thus far.

Looking forward to your filter results at the end of the year. I'm still amazed how many people use MC filters on non-Ford vehicles.
 
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Old 08-23-2017, 10:55 AM
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Forgot to ask, seeing those Motorcraft baseplate inside hole Burrs, did you check the anti-drain back valve surface that contacts/seals that surface, for cuts???.

Purolator oil filters of late, have been showing cuts in their anti-drain back valves that contact that surface. Some have appeared to have been cut all the way through.
Some have defined it as being "shark bit"!!!! lol

Dang, this is the 21th century, Ford Engineering/Purchasing/Q/A need to Wake Up & specify, or instruct Mann/Purolator on how to de-burr a danged part!!!!
 
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Old 08-23-2017, 10:45 PM
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I've never seen any cuts, but I've only cut open three filters and wasn't looking at the valve very closely. I'm trying to not get too caught up in the Purolator problems, but they sure seem to be compounding.

As I mention earlier, I'm running a Fram Ultra right now and will be switching back to a MC filter when I change my oil in a few weeks. I'd be lying if I told you I wasn't a little nervous. We shall see what the MC filter looks like in December!
 
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Old 08-28-2017, 04:54 PM
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Well maybe someone at Ford QA woke up & kicked some Vendor butt at Purolator, look at the #2 photo base plate holes on this unused FL820S made 6-26-17. That's the way a de-burred surface should look!!!
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...EN#Post4499294
 
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