Yes, the engines in these trucks will burn E10 just fine. However, on the earlier trucks the fuel lines weren't designed for it and the rubber hoses deteriorate. I've seen them weeping gas when the engine isn't running and allowing air in when it is. So, I like to replace them with new fuel hose that is rated for E10.

But your '86 should have plastic lines and they don't seem to have that problem. Given that, I wouldn't worry about it. However, E10 doesn't store nearly as well as pure gas so you will want to DRIVE IT!

 

Welcome to the website, thebigtruck!

Great story! I like to hear Bullnose (1980 - 1986 Ford F-Series) trucks stay in the family and on the road. Even me - I am almost finished restoring my Father's 1985 Ford F150.

It looks like you have a great truck to work with. These trucks are 30+ years old now, and good examples are starting to disappear from the road. These trucks are considered too old to be reliable, daily transportation for most people, yet they are considered too "new" for restoration. That means that you shouldn't have too much trouble finding parts vehicles, but some restoration parts are VERY hard to find. The 1980 - 1986 model years are the last of the "classic" Ford trucks, and I think these models will be be of interest to collectors in the future, much like the 1973 - 1979 trucks are.

This is the best way to proceed:
1. - Mechanical restoration
2. - Exterior restoration
3. - Interior restoration

Mechanical parts: If possible, try to use Motorcraft parts. They often cost twice as much, but they are twice as good. Find a local rebuilder if the starter or alternator starts to go bad.

Missing/broken parts: I would suggest looking for an older junkyard in the country. I live in South Carolina, and I was lucky enough to find one not far from my house that had a few of these trucks in the yard. (Don't forget Broncos as well.) I even found one that was red with a red interior - just like my truck. This is the best resource for missing or damaged interior parts. Especially for items like missing brackets, covers, etc. Or for even adding options that your truck didn't originally have. These trucks aren't really popular for restorations yet, so parts can still be had for cheap.

Vendors: If you have to buy a new part, National Parts Depot, Bronco Graveyard, and Dennis Carpenter are good places. LMC parts are usually cheap Chinese junk, but they have the best catalogs for reference. Green Sales Company and Ebay is great resource for NOS (New Old Stock) parts.

Check out Gary Lewis' Garagemahal website as well. He put a lot of time in it, and it is extremely informative and useful. He is a real Nerd as far as these trucks go. I think he has 3 Bullnose trucks, so he a bit of an addict as well.

You said that the engine was replaced, so try to post pictures of your engine so we can see what you are working with. If you have a carbureted engine, it's VERY common for engine swaps to be thrown together with mis-matched parts that aren't compatible with each other or missing parts that are vital to proper engine operation. Some 1984 model F150s had a feedback carburetor that was controlled by an engine computer, and these must be complete and put back together just right, or problems will occur.

 

As Dad would have said, I'll take that as a compliment. But, with the sale of Rusty last Saturday I'm down to 2 of these trucks. (However, I've already told another on here I'm interested in his Bronco.....)

 

And Cher would say, "And the beat goes on.....!"

 

"The Beat Goes On" is a Billboard Hot 100 Top 10 hit song written by Sonny Bono and recorded by Sonny & Cher. Wikipedia, so it must be true.

Remember what I said about Sonny vs Cher.

 

I just had a flash back visual of how poor Sonny meet his demise....thanks for that

 

Did you like that "The song was sung at Sonny Bono's funeral, and the phrase "And the beat goes on" appears on his tombstone."

 

Welcome to FTE.


A lot of good information has been posted already so don't know what more I could add?


I like this order of working on the truck, too bad I did not follow it



The ruff running could be bad gas from sitting, this stuff they call gas now days does not last long at all. If it is not too bad smelling and not a lot I would use it till gone and add fresh gas as needed.
Other wise drain it and add fresh gas with a little Sea Foam in the tank to clean the fuel system, it will also clean the inside the carb too.


Look over the brake system because once you get it running you will need to stop! When under look over the steering & suspension before the road test and replace as needed. After the road test you may find other things need looking at.

Now the outside, Tabco is who I bought my body patch panels, floors, rockers, cab corners, and rear door post. I have a flare side and have not looked into fixing it yet as I am still working on the cab.
I also bought a parts truck at the same time but the bed is wrong and damaged in a roll over.


Inside, that is why I bought the parts truck for most of the inside parts. Still need to buy other parts but will do over time.


As for the "To Do List" I used a white board when building my drag car I kept on the work bench so I would see it ALL THE TIME!
I also did not put everything on it at once. If doing the front end I may put something like 1- bushings, 2- ball joints, 3- springs, etc
or if doing suspension could do 1- front, 2- rear.
The reason for not putting everything down at once is you will get over helmed seeing it all at once.


When I said I did not do the 1, 2, 3 steps above on my truck. When I bought it the motor had a miss, changed plugs and it ran great.
I then took the whole truck apart, cab off frame, suspension off frame, etc. If I did not have a good part between the 2 trucks I bought new.
I am close to getting primer on the cab, hope this weekend if warm enough.


We are all here to get help, to give help and get a kick in the a** to get going on our projects.
Good luck
Dave ----

 

Wow thanks for the help everyone. I ran the truck for a while this evening around the farm when I got home and it seems to be doing a little better than Sunday when I noticed the rough running. I think it needs to be run a bit more and then maybe adjust the carb if I'm still having issues.

Brakes are okay, maybe a little soft, but plenty of stopping power when I put my size 13ee on the pedal with some pressure.

I talked to my uncle and the carb was rebuilt 2 years ago but never adjusted after that at all. Before I picked it up he put a new fuel pump on it and dumped a couple gallons of fresh gas in so I'm guessing my stumbles are getting the last of the crap gas cleaned out.

I will try to get some engine pics this weekend and ask y'all to help me identify it before I go part hunting. He believes the exhaust manifold is the culprit of the leak so unless I find other issues I'm going to be deciding on replacing that or just putting headers on it. Any opinions either way?

I think my goal for this is "restohance" as I told my buddy. Restore mostly and keep it Grandpa's truck, but enhance some things - maybe give the suspension a little lift or basic level and a bigger tire for muddy pastures/hunting time, get the engine bumped up a little, things like that.

Once again, thanks to all who have posted. I'm a bit long winded when I write so I won't call each of you out, but know that I've read each post and appreciate the advice and warm welcomes.

 

Opinions on headers? You opened a can of worms. My opinion is that you should stay away from headers. Big Blue has some of the most expensive ones available, L&L's, and they do not fit. One tube is down hard on the engine perch and any vibration of the engine is conducted to the frame.

 

So is you basis to stay away purely a fitment issue or something else that you think they affect?

 

Fitment. And clearance, which I didn't mention. Many guys on here have had problems with headers hanging low and potentially getting snagged when off-roading. My L&L's seem to be tucked up high enough other things will drag first. But, they hit the frame.

 

Sounds reasonable to me. Thanks for the information.

 

Headers throw off a lot of heat into the engine bay and starter the tube run by.

Also PITA to keep sealed to the head.

Us 6 cly guys have it easy as we can use EFI manifolds that should flow better.
Dave - - -

 

Awesome story. I will be following along with this one as well. I am restoring my Grandfathers 85 F150. I would start with getting everything mechanically sound. Get it running and driving as it should. That is where I started with my truck at least. Then I moved onto the body work and paint which is where things get expensive. But its all worth it when there is sentimental value to a vehicle. Good luck and everyone here is very helpful!