My 93 E350 460 efi E4OD did something I've never had happen before. I took it out for a drive and the dash gauges started swinging on and off then the transmission started cutting in and out. Then the motor started stalling out. This all happened in a mile or so. The motor finally wouldn't start. I coasted to stop. The battery was dead and the alternator was toast. Charged battery put a new alternator on. Gauges acted the same but motor and trani acted fine. I made it home battery was way down. I have no idea where to start looking. Thanks for any input.

 

Had this happen when the alternator went out, gauges go crazy with spike from a bad alternator.

With this era, if the battery is disconnected, or dead for 20 minutes or more, the ECU looses memory, and goes to default settings, once the power is restored, it takes about 50+ miles for the ECU to "re-set" to running and preform correctly. This will also effect the transmission shifting as the ECU controls the E4OD also.

One note, on this era van, the battery connectors are crimped on lead connectors, and very prone to corrosion of the copper wire, if you were to cut off the old connectors, and see the black copper, that's corrosion.

Best if the battery connectors are replaced with new crimped on connectors which can solve many other problems, as the ground is much needed and can cause many running issues.

This could be the cause of the battery's low voltage after you got it back.

Also, the new alternator you put on, was it a New or Re-man alternator?
Was it bench tested when you bought it?

 

Thanks for the insight. The alternator is a remanufactured and no it wasn't bench tested. I'll pull it off and take it back for a test. The battery cables I have already done. I'll be happy if it's just the alternator. My fear was a mouse attack. The little vermin got into my Ford pu and made a mess out of my wiring.

 

I agree with Wildman.

Very similar symptoms when my alternator died on my 2000 Contour. (RIP). No trans symptoms though.

That alternator replacement was over $300, so I did a hillbilly rebuild (new brushes= and then reinstall). The new brushes lasted about 30,000 and then the next brushes lasted about 15,000 and then the next brushes lasted about 5,000 and then I sold the car.

Anyway my symptoms were very similar to yours. A battery charge and new brushes fixed it every time.

 

With a replacement alternator install and having same charging issues, get a volt meter on the battery and see what the voltage is. Should be 13.8 to 14.2 volts with engine running.

Does the battery light indicator light up on your dash when you 1st turn the key on? Could be a alternator energizer wire problem from dash to alternator. Its the green with red stripe at the alternator connection. With engine running you should get battery voltage on it.