I have seen the recommendation to not let a 6.0 sit for long periods between usage.

I am wondering why?

My 97 7.3 has sat for a couple months and started and ran just fine. They both use the HEUI system...

So, What makes the 6.0 more sensitive?

It can't be the diesel fuel, that can sit for more than a year so long as it is relatively contained.

Anyway, just curious...

Richard

 

Mine sits between uses longer that it should, according to what I've read, and I really don't experience adverse consequences, yet. But from what I understand, most of the concern is the variable geometry turbo, where moisture and condensation can form rust and tends to freeze the veins to where you'd need a new turbo. Maybe because I live in a fairly dry climate it's more forgiving, I dunno. There may be more to the picture, but this is the understanding I have of adverse consequences of 6.0 sitting long periods of time.

 

VGT. The Variable Geometry Turbo has a component called a unison ring. It is a flat plate with grooves inside that controls the veins to direct exhaust gases for mainly boost control. It is sandwiched between the exhaust housing of the turbo. The housing and/or unison ring can rust or carbon up causing it to get stuck. This is turn can give you no boost, low boost, or overboost.
That's also another reason to get on the throttle hard time to time to keep things free and moving.
So even starting it and letting it just idle is not good for it either.
Of course it's not good for any vehicle to sit with out going through drive cycles to burn off condensation.

 

I am aware of the VGT system... didn't realize that it was that sensitive. I have seen reports that it can get carboned up but I didn't know that it was the reason behind the don't let it sit recommendation.

Living in a very low humidity environment and condensation/rust issues are rare here (southern AZ).

is the unison ring regular steel? I would figure that if you made a new one from one of the stainless alloys that would resolve the rusting issues (I am thinking 330 or 347 stainless maybe). You'd still have to deal with carbon issues though.

I read somewhere that ford updated the PCM to fully cycle the unison ring at KO to help with the carbon buildup. Has that shown to be effective to keep it carbon free if it was clean before the update?

Richard

 

There are stainless unison rings available anywhere from 77 to 177 dollars.
Like I touched on before, because the housing is cast iron on both sides of the unison ring it will still cause issues.
I run Gearheads tow tune and every 4 minutes or so it cycles the vanes.

 

Also, sometimes people let them sit and do not charge the batteries or have a trickle charger on them. Which can lead to charging system issues with the FICM.

Back n tha day, you could have a bad battery, dead battery, or bad alternator and it was no issue. Just change it out and your good to go. But........Not with these 6oh's .

 

And pitting, mine has some of that going on when I took it out to clean it.

 

I pulled my turbo last weekend to clean it as it was starting to stick, the unison ring and vanes were fine, the cast iron parts were junk. New one will be here tomorrow. It lasted 200k miles and just over 14 years

 

Hence the reason for the saying among the 6.0 crowd, "drive it like you stole it weekly"

 

I have always believed that letting it sit with SHORT trips in between the periods where it sat was worse than just letting it sit. Some folks around here just drive it a few blocks every few weeks and that seems like it would simulate the "lot rot" at the dealership that we used to talk about in the old days.

As 87crewdually and navistarnut mentioned - it probably should be brought to full temperatures (10-15 miles) at least every month or so for the best longevity.

 

Last summer I let ours sit from May 1st to October 1st. I didn't have any one I could trust to fire it up and drive it. I didn't notice any adverse effects from it sitting for that time. The old girl fired right up after hooking up the batteries. It was very dry during that time. Not much humidity. I have to do the same this year.

 

Mine runs every week at least an hour at highway speed. Externally the turbo looked normal, but inside the cast iron parts looked like they had been buried in the pasture for 10 years. I wondering if it was just bad steel. Found the new one on ebay for $750 shipped, big difference in the way it runs now.

 

How many miles to you have on it Jack?

 

True dat, I tend to believe. Where I live, there is no place "close" that I have an interest in, except the deepest fishing holes, and even they're at least 15 minutes away. Others I can walk to. The majority of time I fire up the old truck is when I go to town, and that is at least a half an hour away, so I'm always reaching operating temperature once fired up. Once in a while, I'll drive short distance, but that is very rare. That, along with the very dry Eastern Sierra climate, are the factors that (I believe) keep my turbo in good shape. The batteries are a different story. I do tend to keep an eye on the battery health with Dashboss, usually whenever I drive after she's sat for a while. When the batteries or alternator start showing signs wear, I'll take swift and decisive action to correct them, being that I know the consequences can be expensive and an inconvenience while on the road with my trailer. Not something I want to deal with when enjoying valuable vaca time.

 

202k and appears to be the original turbo, nothing in the oasis about a replacement either. Truck was built 11/02.