Here's a topic for all of us to debate over. Out of the last 4 new vehicles I've purchased not including this truck. I've ended up clay barring them by the 6 month window due to rail dust. Now realizing this is a fact of life with a new vehicle I want to get ahead of the game on this truck. Just get after it. Obviously from my other posts I have a black lariat ultimate and its been awhile since I've had a black truck. Now I have two black vehicles (2017 explorer sport) that id like to take care of. wax and clay bar recommendations?

 

I've used the 'high-dollar' stuff from Zaino's on my Corvette, but then just started using Meguiars Ultimate wax, and their clay-bar as well, that I purchased at auto parts stores and Wally World. The results were just as good.

The main thing, is that I used the 'two-bucket-method' when I did the wash in prep to wax and polish. I would do the clay bar about twice a year. Great way to spend the afternoon and while doing so, consume some grain based beverages.

 

Remember that "rail dust" is particulate from many thing. Mostly which is brake dust from brake pads.
I clay bar all my new trucks with Meguirs or Mothers. Both seem to do a fine job.
Black is a hard color to take care of though.

 

our last vehicles were white so the rail dust was extremely noticeable. I will prob use a store available wax and bar. can you elaborate on the two bucket method

 

Griot's Garage has a complete system that you can purchase for about $40

https://www.griotsgarage.com/product...e=&from=Search

 

There speed shine & clay bar is some good stuff.
Adams Detail Spray is good also.
Wax

 

The two bucket method is rinsing your dirty wash mitt in another bucket before putting it back into the suds bucket to prevent the dirt from scratching/swirling your paint.

 

You might consider using something to dissolve the iron particles in the rail dust BEFORE clay…so you don't drag them around the surface. Most colors wouldn't matter either way; non-metallic black, no such luck…it'll show everything.

I use Iron-X before every clay session. YouTube for amplifying info, and most detailer retailers have it. Keep in mind, with black, you won't see the iron dissolving…but it'll do the same job regardless.

 

You don't need any fancy brand named clay bars, for the most part, a clay bar is a clay bar. However, they do vary in strength of abrasiveness and for the most part moderate strength will be enough. You can get a at amazon for around $22, which will last you awhile since you can split each bar.

By using a clay bar, you'll also need some kind of lubricant that'll allow the clay to gently glide over the surface and pick up all the different contaminants. One that i would recommend is by Nanoskin called . It's a concentrate and you mix 10 parts water to 1 part Glide, so a 16oz bottle will go a long way (depends on how often you'll be claying).

I tried , which is basically a sponge with clay attached to it and is washable/reusable to a certain extent, and it ended up marring a few areas on my car which i later had to "buff out". Yes, it's a lot faster than a clay bar but ill be staying away from it as i never experienced any similar issues using a clay bar.

 

I've always heard to wait a couple of months before using a clay bar on a new vehicle, is this just another falsehood? Anyway I have a lot of Zaino stuff to use up before switching brands. Zaino looks great, but is probably like anything else, you can find something just as good for less.

 

I own a chain of hand car washes and have been detailing cars for 25 years. Was a pilot before. The stuff the companies sell you is to make money. Get a clay bar that is moderate strength, wash your car with the three bucket system, then use the wash soap to lubricate the surface of your car. Using anything else is pointless. It does nothing else special except cost money which doubles the revenue for the suppliers. You don't need to go full OCD unless you want to. I dress my monkey in what ever I want to dress my monkey in. Getting the major panels and visible lines is fine and will remove 90%. After, put a good synthetic wax on it. If appearance is not your main deal go with Collonite for a very durable industrial coating. Otherwise a synthetic wax like Menzerna Power Lock is great and last a good while. When done. Feel the paint with the back of two fingers. That's how it should always feel. Like silk. If not time for a clay bar.

If you need a firmer clay bar strength you'll know after you are finished. You will need to polish your paint if you end up needing a lot of force or use a firmer strength clay. Menzerna Super Finish is the best polish made. You'll see marring and light scratches and personally I have never used clay bar to this point. I take better care of point than to have it end up at this stage.

Add a topper of carnuaba for the wet look after the next wash. Carbuaba, yes even the high end stuff like Chemicals guys, or Pinnacle or Poor Boys etc has zero durability and will come off very fast. However, it is the look most like and has a deep wet look. Synthetic is more of a mirror finish. Most agree carnuaba looks better but put your synthetic down first and then add a topper after washing. Autogeek.net has good choices.

 

very good insight. thanks for the help guys. I definitely think this is a topic people will reference back to in the future.

 

machine wax or hand wax?

 

I'll second TX gold, im impressed with collonites durability.

 

I used Wolfgang Clay followed by their Paint Sealant this time. I'm happy with the results.