I'm using freedom racing phaser. By the reviews on there website they have less failures then Ford. But know knows on how real that is. I did switch the coil number 8 to number 1 and still got that code on 8. So I knew I wasn't the coil so I put a test light and is getting power and it flashes like it suppose too. Does timing look right tho?

 

my 04 f150 5.4 suddenly started missing bucking and backfiring I got it apart yesterday and my timing chain guide is in a dozen pieces most of it was laying in the cover by the crank gears So I'm about to replace everything my question is should I use motorcraft parts or is it ok to use aftermarket

 

I wouldn't use Dorman parts by the reviews I've read.

 

I ordered everything from ford this evening thank you

 

Whoa... wait a second... are you saying that the phaser mounted on the left bank must be disassembled then rotated 180 degrees? Even when they're brand new out of the box?

 

I'm not saying anything of the sort. I pointed out that the position of his left phaser cam did not match the factory service manual drawing as something for him to consider. The drawing could be wrong, it wouldn't be the first time.

 

My point is the phaser only goes on one way, unless the pin was sheared off. Anyways... I'm here because I'm having some similar issues.

-2008 F250 SD with 5.4l
-Bought used with the seller complaining of bad phasers and chains. We bought the vehicle because we deal with repairing and selling broken trucks. It was cheap.
-I replaced timing chains, guides, rails, tensioners, phasers, VCT solenoids.
-I've done this repair several times before on other 5.4L's.
- I started the truck up once back together. It appears to idle fine when cold. I ran it several times for maybe an hour total. I noticed that I could not get the engine RPM over 2500.
- Previously it had a code for the throttle body (I forget the number) stating forced RPM reduction.
- I pulled a code out of it for the camshaft position sensor, bank 1, after the truck was reassembled.
- I tried driving around the block. It acted up not 100 meters from my home, sputtered, died. Refused to start.

All the damned parts are new. I did however get these funny tensioners from Cloyes that are made of cast iron. They're totally different from the cruddy FoMoCo ones. They came with no seals, so I fabricated one.

I believe the chain jumped due to low pressure in one tensioner. I was forced to make a seal because where I live finding timing components without waiting weeks is quite hard.

Any thoughts?

 

The metal tensioners don't come with seals, I used black sealer, and torqued it to specs. If you have a 2008 and used the steel metal gasket that comes with the metal tensioner, then you will need to take it back out. The sheet metal gasket is for an earlier version of motor. I learned this the hard way. Luckily I didn't have any damage, but it could have gone bad fast for me.