Hey guys. You have helped me this far and I trust you all. Here is another update on project "pretty pig" thanks to 52 Merc who mentioned some really amazing points much like you all did. So here is the new information I have learned from talking with the currant owner.
1- it runs and drives but the brakes are done and need replacement.
2- its actually really clean rust wise on the body. It was stored on concrete/sheds for its whole life.
3- it has a paper trail and the first owners owned a small garage and took care of their stuff well apparently.
4- even more interesting the second owner the son of the original became a governor of Wisconsin. So maybe the truck has magical powers? (only joking about the powers thing)
5- it has had 2-4 owners.
6- it was purchased last year for a future project truck and he would rather get into a 53-56 year truck so he would like to sell it and use the money towards the next project
7- How you see it now is how it was 25-40 years ago when it was repaired. The prior owner to the currant wanted to rebuild it but, never got around to it so he sold it off.
8- Rad leaks
9- odometer cable is broke (I called him late so he will check the miles another time)
10- in the currant owners time of owning it he has done nothing to it at all. No oil no nothing.
11- the fenders are the only part that may have fiber glass but, the repair was more than likely welded.
12- other than when he took it off the trailer, drove it in his shed, its been sitting for an estimate of at least 25 years.
13- the seat clearly had something living in it at some point.
14- someone did a wire job to convert it to 12v but, the currant owner told me it should be redone at some point

Those are the things I learned about it on this phone call and he is completely down to earth about why I'm asking these things. Now what I would really appreciate from you guys is helping me with listing out and cost estimating anything you see in need of repair. This will help me with my future budget. I like to plan for these things the best I can and have more than enough incase something goes crazy. Pictures bellow! Go crazy and ask anything you need! Thank you all so much for helping me this far.

God bless you all

-Boneless J Ham




front bumper top

"the dent" Great news is based of the way they made those silver bars I can cut one out at work and put a small bend on it.






is that tan thing a heater or something? What is that hose for under the dash near the blue box?


is that access panel suppose to be wood?







this one freaks me out. What has caused that crack? Im not so bothered with the idea to cutting it out and welding something in. I actually really enjoy using my welding ability out side of work or school.



List of repairs I will edit as it comes in
A- 12v wiring job needs to be redone
B- seat is toast
C- Something doesn't seem right with the truck bed, Looks like a hole in it and perhaps some shoddy weld patches
D- gate needs to be installed
E- running boards need to be installed

 

Projects like these will take more money and more time than even the best could plan for. Do not expect this hobby to be financially viable. You are investing in your enjoyment, skill development, and not spending it on other vices like excessive beer, women or other forms of trouble.

For hobbies of this nature, I find budgeting so much per pay period is the way to go instead of trying to estimate a total project costs and working backwards.

 

Well the good news is I don't drink, and I don't know a gal. So trouble wise I got lots of room to play and get in some with this thing. Regardless you are completely correct. The idea of taking the fenders off and correcting them or disassembly of the the doors to repaint them makes me really excited and better yet. I may even get my own little area for working on stuff if I get the ok to convert the old and unused garden into a "canopy shop" as I call it. Otherwise I will just take it apart at the storage place down the road from my house and bring stuff over to work on and then put it back together where ever. Did you find anything that needs extra attention?

 

I’d stay away from that truck. I think there is a lot of issues hiding under the paint with a lot of bondo. Look fo a truck that hasn’t been painted so you can actually see what is rusted out. Just finding new running boards will probably cost $500-$600. just my opinion. Doesn’t sound like you have a lot of experience with these trucks. Once you start blasting away the paint and bondo you will get discouraged and just give up on it. Sometimes it takes two or three trucks to make one nice one. Sorry for being a Debby Downer but it’s not a cheap hobby. Doug.

 

You never mentioned how much he is asking for the truck. Secondly you mentioned the second owner was a politician. You can never believe anything they tell you. Doug.

 

On just the items you have listed/mentioned....I would start at $5k in parts/materials. That does not include the surprises you are likely going to find

 

Hey you are not being a downer. Its ok to be realistic. I honestly am in a place in life where I really need something to look forward to doing. I normally am able to wait for "the one" but, all of a sudden I'm itching to get something. I would like to know. What part of the paint gives the issues away? I have seen some bubbles in the bed. He was asking $7500 but, I was thinking of offering less. I am looking to learn as much as possible so these posts dont mean im buying that, just learning what to look for.

 

I think anywhere the paint is cracked there are major issues underneath. I’m no expert but I think whoever did that wasn’t very experienced either. The “D” on the front is missing and I don’t even see any holes where is supposed to be mounted. If they mounted wooden running boards that would tell me that the original ones were so rusted out that they weren’t even repairable. Probably matches the rest of the truck. Maybe if they had pictures of the truck before they started restoring it it would give you a better idea of what is underneath. When I got my first truck home and started getting into it I found the cab was no good, then the frame was no good. Ended buying two other trucks to make one whole truck. This is that truck. If you were closer I’d sell it to you. At least you can see the rust. It has updated brakes. Disc on front. Dana 60 rearend. Heavy duty three speed transmission. V8. Jump in it and drive it. Insured driver. I think that’s way too much for that truck.

 

Everything you see in these pictures I predicted in my original posts. You can always go back and re-read my observations. The big crack in the lower box side is bondo over rust coming apart. The other side is just as bad underneath, just not as visibly broken open. All the nasty and incorrect patchwork inside is more of the same. The mudwork is really nasty around the fender studs inside. Frankly, none of this stuff is a big deal as reproduction boxes are available and for just a few thousand dollars, when the time comes you can pick one up and half your truck is done. Most all beds are used up just like this one, this one just happens to have less than professional work done on it trying to hide its junkness. https://www.horkeyswoodandparts.com/page28.php

The front end bodywork is superficial, as well. If you can't find good used parts, reproduction for pretty much the entire front end is available.
https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/tru...5D%5B0%5D=1950

The good news is aside from the front end crash, the rest is more or less presentable for a driver. Concentrate on the mechanicals to make it stop and go. Figure $500-1000 for brakes and fuel system rebuilding. Another $500 for wiring. Another $1000 or two for contingencies. If you need to pay an upholstery guy to do the seat, there's another grand. The 5K estimate above might get it functioning decent, but not any prettier.

The access panels in the doors are metal, and those appear correct. They just have flakey paint.

How's the steering and suspension? It's likely to need the steering box rebuilt, new tie rod ends, drag link, and spindle bushings and king pins replaced. From the looks of the truck, I'd about guarantee none of that was ever addressed when it was "rebuilt" before.

Like I said before, the work done previously is poor, shoddy and amateur and needs to be redone. There's no telling what you'll find once you open it up, but from what we can see, it's going to be rough. That's why guys who want a project try to find one like in Muppy's pictures. It's an honest representation of the truck. Don't pay for lipstick, you will pay too much. Personally, I'd pass. If it really does run and drive good, aside from what we know needs done to drive safely and reliably, the frame is straight and not rotten, and you can get it cheap enough, and you are up for a learning lesson, it definitely will keep you out of trouble and broke for a good, long while. Just know we told you so.

 

Your questions:
The tan pieces on the dash are the speaker grille (the larger of the two) and the radio delete cover.
The blue box is the heater and the convoluted tube connects the heater to the defrost ducts.
The door inspection panels should be metal.

My comments:
The front fenders are fiberglass - they lack the seam lines of the metal two piece OE.
Have you checked the cab floor? This truck is a candidate for rusted through floorboards.
Assume the tires are not road worthy and add another $1k to your running estimate.
The wiring under hood is a fire waiting to happen.
Assume the clutch needs replacing - add another $500.
Assume the exhaust system has been a mouse condo - add another $250.
Assume that there are needed tools you don't own - add $400 (timing light, drag link tool, ...)

If this is the truck from the Twin Cities listed elsewhere, there is a reason others passed. The asking price is in the ballpark for a road worthy vehicle - which this one isn't. It would seem unlikely that the seller is into the truck for much beyond $4000. I would start there if you are intent on buying.

 

If it runs and drives, and you can get it for under $5,000, I’d say (again) the truck might work out for you and be just what you are looking for. I had to laugh at Wayne’s description of some of the previous work done on the truck you are considering. When he said, “Poor, shoddy and amateur, and needs to be redone”, he was actually describing the work I did on my truck! Just because your truck is rusty and it wasn’t fixed righ, doesn’t mean you can’t drive and enjoy it.

If you do end up buying it, I would strongly recommend not taking everything apart. Keep it running and driving and work on one area at a time. Maybe first do brakes, then wiring and gauges—maybe after that steering and suspension. Save body work for the last.

Lots of new and excited owner we see here, tear their newly purchased project trucks completely apart down to the bare frame with dreams of building it back up into something wonderful that will look and drive like a new vehicle. We have members here here that can do that, but your typical inexperienced first time buyer, like yourself, usually can’t. They end up disappointed and discouraged and the truck of their dreams never gets completely put back together again and they never actually drive their dream truck.

Good luck.

Jim

PS

Tell us the politician’s name, and I’ll let you know if he can be believed or not. LOL

 

The prices that you are being given are probably accurate today. I would also point out that these prices could change drastically on November 5, 2024.

 

I re track my first post after looking at the pictures -- after looking at it in person with your magnet -- I would $ 3,500.00 CASH on the hood and say you will take it with a CLEAN title--- Better if it had a FLAT Head in not a 6 CYL---

So you know F-1 trucks are very SMALL cabs-- They had small farmers then--- looks like lots of work can you do the work yourself-

-HOW IS THE FRAME

HOW IS THE CAB FLOORS

BED LOOKS LIKE IT NEEDS LOTS OF LUV
ONLY
f-1 TRUCKS ARE cheap-- LOTS OF NICE DRIVERS OUT THERE FOR $10 TO $ 14 k GET IN AND ENJOY


THIS ONE YOU ARE SHOWING YOU WILL SPEND THAT ABOUT OF MONEY ON IT TO GET IT ROAD READY---

YOU HAVE TO LEARN IN THIS HOBBY IT IS DYING FAST AND WHEN YOU LOOK AT AND START TAKING APART YOU OPEN UP A CAN OF WORMS WITH WHAT YOU FIND -- GOOD LUCK

 

Thanks for taking such helpful pictures. And for explaining why you would like to get into a project like this. With those in mind, I see this truck has more potential to be a good distraction to prevent you from having to think about whatever else is happening in our lives, and to spread a good deal of your savings around to boost the economy.
You can easily spend 500 hours on this truck taking it apart and putting it back together to make it run better and look better. Sounds like you have some tools and have proven you can think through situations, that is why I didn't say 750 hours.
As for cost.........it depends on what your end plan looks like. A truck like this can be put into three different end plans, and which one you choose will determine approximately how much of your money goes into it.
1. A functional truck that starts, stops and can go short distances a a time (50 miles) without worry - but has very visible flaws and keeps at least half of it's rust and 'used old truck' character. Add $5,000 to purchase price.
2. A functional truck that has some modern upgrades for driving comfort, road safety, driver convenience, can go on 500-mile+ trips without much worry, and looks pretty good from 15' away to all but the most discerning Ford truck enthusiasts. Add $17,000 to the purchase price.
3. A fully customized/modified truck that keeps up with modern cars in terms of acceleration, braking and handling, has driver comfort features and looks like it spends most of it's outdoor time in shows. Add $40,000+ to the purchase price and there will very, very few parts of the truck remaining that you started with. A fully restored to original truck will cost about the same.


Oh, your seat isn't toast, just needs to be stripped to the springs and frame and then recovered in readily-available new foams and upholstery. Some springs replaced and paint on the frame and it'll look great again.

If this guy is asking $7,500 for it....that is too much. But there are a number of guys and gals out there who will pay about that much (because it is resale red) and then find out what a mistake it was. Now if the truck can be bought for $3,000 it would be better and stand a chance at being back on the road one day.

My advice is to keep looking for another project if this one can't be had for $3,000. The seller in all likelihood won't want to believe how much work this truck needs.
We'll help you though any decision you make.

Here's an alternative truck in which the seller isn't asking too much for... if the attachment doesn't work, check Facebook Marketplace in Mankato, Mn for '1956 Ford'.


Tom

 

I look at these differently than some guys. They were never beauty queens, built to work on the farm/ranch and keep taking a licking. Show-grade cosmetics don't bother me. it's really about who you are and want from a truck. So at the end of the day, I'm not afraid of the truck to run as a daily driver. It looks basically solid, but he's asking twice as much as it's worth in my opinion.

Reality - the truck is in Wisconsin which is part of the rust belt (I'm originally from Ohio so I know mid-west rust). The constant dampness will cause bondo to separate over the years regardless of how well the job was done. Body repairs are not a forever fix. Fortyniner has some great comments about floor condition.
Good news - you said you can weld thin metal. The metal in these trucks is thick enough that you can go at it with a hammer and dolly and weld with a buzzbox welder in a pinch.

What I see:
The wiring doesn't concern me. 12 volt needs wires 1/2 the size of 6 volt so you're good there. They could be gathered together to look neater. It has a ceramic ignition resistor on the firewall to reduce voltage to the points, same as I run in my 48. That ceramic reducer comes from a 70s Mopar and can be purchased at NAPA. There should be a voltage drop inside to reduce voltage to the gauges.
The truck took a hit to the driver's front corner. That's what stoved in the grill and upper valance. That's when it received the one piece front fenders, almost certainly fiber glass. Again no big problem. The grill bars are stainless and can be purchased. The valance is the part that would drive me crazy until I repaired it correctly. The entire front end unbolts into individual pieces so you can get in there to fix it. Just labor intensive.
The seat - pull the cover off, replace some padding and install a replacement seat cover that can be purchased online. I've done 2 of mine - no biggie.