1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

New 1954 F100 Build

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  #46  
Old 11-13-2017, 05:50 PM
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I worked my tail off on the truck this past weekend. Finished up the tubs, cut recessed taillights into the roll pan and fabricated brackets for the lights. Finished up all the welding for the stake pocket extensions and tear drops, epoxy primed the bed, then put 2 coats of SPI 2K.. that was Friday.


Saturday I finished up the rear fenders, they have been sitting with phosphoric acid on them so I wire wheeled them clear, washed with soap and water, then acetone, then wax and grease remover. Followed by epoxy primer on both sides and 2K on the outsides. I also finished up the tailgate and made custom mounts for the running boards, everything got 2 coats of epoxy and 2 coats of 2K. That was Saturday.


Sunday I put 3m undercoating on the inner rear fenders and under the running boards, then re-assembled everything.... lots of work but all the rust is GONE and everything is in primer exactly 1 week short of a year from when I got it.
 
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Old 11-13-2017, 05:53 PM
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  #48  
Old 11-14-2017, 06:12 AM
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That is some good progress and it looks great. Good job !!
 
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Old 11-14-2017, 07:58 AM
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This looks great!

I have 2 questions...

1. What are you going to run for wheels?
2. Did you move the CV suspension forward to Center the wheels?
 
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Old 11-14-2017, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Olboy
This looks great!

I have 2 questions...

1. What are you going to run for wheels?
2. Did you move the CV suspension forward to Center the wheels?
thanks guys, it certianly has been a ton of work to get to this point. I’m planning to run a high offset mustang wheel on the front, I believe it’s a 4.5” offset for the cv, probably 18”. I will run the same wheel on the back with a smaller offset to center it in the wheel well. I’m thinking a 8” wife on the front and 10” on the back.

Whats your opinion on the tail light? Should I add another, shorter one below or do you think a single row looks good? Also what’s your opinion on the grill? Should I go chrome or painted? This truck will be painted a metallic green.
 
  #51  
Old 11-14-2017, 09:03 AM
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This is the color I will be painting the truck, what do you think about an off white grille instead of chrome? I will still use a polished/chrome wheel and a chrome front bumper and I already have new mirrors and door handles .
 
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Old 11-14-2017, 04:20 PM
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I managed to get the brake booster installed today to test fit it, now I need to figure a way to mount my clutch pedal and accelerator... I'm guessing I need to break out the welding machine once again.


What's the best way to paint a brake booster/master cylinder? I'm thinking of using a single stage gloss black but I don't have any experience with single stage. Do I need to prime it before? And will it hold up to the brake fluid spills?
 
  #53  
Old 11-14-2017, 04:32 PM
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I tried POR 15 and caliper paint on mine but may have added brake fluid too early. It pulled the paint almost immediately. I think powder coat would stand up to brake fluid.
 
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Old 11-14-2017, 04:54 PM
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I am in awe with the skill and effort of bringing your truck back to life!!!
 
  #55  
Old 11-14-2017, 04:57 PM
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Thank you! It's been a challenge but I'm enjoying it. I cant wait to do my first burnout in it... then pull it all apart and paint.
 
  #56  
Old 11-14-2017, 08:18 PM
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There is no paint that I know of that will stand up to brake fluid .
 
  #57  
Old 11-14-2017, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jakevidrine
This is the color I will be painting the truck, what do you think about an off white grille instead of chrome? I will still use a polished/chrome wheel and a chrome front bumper and I already have new mirrors and door handles .
Yes, I think an off white grille would set off The green nicely. Ford used Sungate Ivory originally for 1953 and 54 grilles since as their vintage publications said, "Sungate Ivory complements all stock colors."
 
  #58  
Old 11-15-2017, 07:17 AM
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Looking great, Jake. I like the small brake booster. I plan to use a booster from a Ranger with the swing pedal assembly from the 92 F150 I got my transmission from. I plan to use the stock hydraulic clutch and tubing which mounts the clutch master cylinder inboard of the brake master cylinder. Though there is plenty of room for the bigger f150 booster as far as hood clearance it hits on the support rod which goes forward to the left front fender. So I got the Ranger booster and its better but still tight to the rod. I am doing my build lo buck but I may have to cut loose some cash for a booster. Is that the Corvette booster? Thanks Greg
 
  #59  
Old 11-15-2017, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg Rogers
Looking great, Jake. I like the small brake booster. I plan to use a booster from a Ranger with the swing pedal assembly from the 92 F150 I got my transmission from. I plan to use the stock hydraulic clutch and tubing which mounts the clutch master cylinder inboard of the brake master cylinder. Though there is plenty of room for the bigger f150 booster as far as hood clearance it hits on the support rod which goes forward to the left front fender. So I got the Ranger booster and its better but still tight to the rod. I am doing my build lo buck but I may have to cut loose some cash for a booster. Is that the Corvette booster? Thanks Greg

so so the booster I used is the CPP F-100 firewall mounted booster, I do believe this is the corvette style booster. Everything mounts very easily and it “triangulates” the dash to the firewall making everything very rigid. My new challenge is how to mount the clutch pedal without contacting the brake mount but I think I’ll be able to make it work.

Im upset about no paint being able to withstand brake fluid, after researching it seems powder coat won’t hold up well either. I’m thinking I’m going to get a black single stage and just paint it and hope for the best.
 
  #60  
Old 11-15-2017, 08:09 AM
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There are companies offering paints that they claim to be resistant to brake fluid. Eastwood has a rattle can paint and KBS says that their Diamond clear coat will withstand virtually any chemical found in an engine bay.
 


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