1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

New 1954 F100 Build

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  #121  
Old 08-05-2018, 09:57 AM
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Thanks guys! I hope I never have to remove it!
 
  #122  
Old 08-05-2018, 02:35 PM
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Jakevidrine,
Truck looks fabulous! Where did you get your clutch master and slave cylinders and how did you mount the master to the brake pedal and the slave to the bell? I am going to install a 5.0 with a T-5 into my 54 and have to figure out the clutch cylinder attachments.

Thanks in advance.
Bob
 
  #123  
Old 08-05-2018, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by rpaxton939
Jakevidrine,
Truck looks fabulous! Where did you get your clutch master and slave cylinders and how did you mount the master to the brake pedal and the slave to the bell? I am going to install a 5.0 with a T-5 into my 54 and have to figure out the clutch cylinder attachments.

Thanks in advance.
Bob

thank you! Initially I used a wilwood master and externally mounted slave. I fabricated a mount for the bellhousing, it worked but it needed constant adjustment. I changed to the tilton 6104 hydraulic throwout bearing with a tilton 7/8” master cylinder and -4an lines.

Save me your time and money, get the tilton hydraulic throwout, it takes up less room and works perfectly. You also do t have to worry about knocking it off if you hit something.

I did ave to reinforce the firewall around the master cylinder, I sandwiched a 4”x8” piece of 1/4” steel between my pedal and the cylinder. This is under the dash so it can’t be seen.

If you need pictures or more info please let me know.
 
  #124  
Old 08-05-2018, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jakevidrine



thank you! Initially I used a wilwood master and externally mounted slave. I fabricated a mount for the bellhousing, it worked but it needed constant adjustment. I changed to the tilton 6104 hydraulic throwout bearing with a tilton 7/8” master cylinder and -4an lines.

Save me your time and money, get the tilton hydraulic throwout, it takes up less room and works perfectly. You also do t have to worry about knocking it off if you hit something.

I did ave to reinforce the firewall around the master cylinder, I sandwiched a 4”x8” piece of 1/4” steel between my pedal and the cylinder. This is under the dash so it can’t be seen.

If you need pictures or more info please let me know.
Did you ever take a look at the master cylinder and hydraulic throwout bearing that Modern Driveline offers? I think they might be very much the same as the Tilton. I will look for the Tilton units you are using.
Thanks for the info. I am going to try to connect the master cylinder to my existing through-the-floor clutch pedal so we will see how that works out.
 
  #125  
Old 08-06-2018, 07:27 AM
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Yes it looks like the one sold on modern driveline is the tilton 6000 series, that’s the same one I used. I called tilton about it, they recommend a 7/8” master cylinder with -4an lines. Otherwise you won’t be able to provide enough fluid to the cylinder to release the clutch.
 
  #126  
Old 08-06-2018, 09:44 AM
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If you need more fluid volumn in the system and since the -6an lines have a larger id than the -4an lines, would it be better to use the -6an lines instead of the -4an lines?
 
  #127  
Old 08-06-2018, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by rpaxton939
If you need more fluid volumn in the system and since the -6an lines have a larger id than the -4an lines, would it be better to use the -6an lines instead of the -4an lines?
tilton recommends -4an, I would t go larger than that because the bend radius of the hose and the larger od. It becomes a pain to work with. I used -6an for my fuel lines in the engine compartment, they don’t bend very well.
 
  #128  
Old 10-15-2018, 10:47 AM
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It has been quite a while since I've posted anything on here so I figured it was time for an update....

I've finally started on the interior, the carpet is in as well as the speakers and the seat. I still need to get the windows adjusted properly so they stop hanging on the up/down stroke. Once they are done I will get the door panels on and finish up the headliner/backwall. everything is covered in dynamat, I used 1/2" dynaliner under the seat and 1/2" dynapad up the firewall to the start of the seat, it reduced the sound in the cab from 102 DB to 85 DB... I still want to add 3/8" dynaliner on the back wall and roof to make it a little quieter... my exhaust is wayyy too loud.


obviously I still need to adjust the hood to get it to sit right, I just put it back on this morning..

 
  #129  
Old 10-15-2018, 10:51 AM
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pictures didn't work.. lets try this again...









 
  #130  
Old 10-15-2018, 11:46 AM
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Really nicely done.
 
  #131  
Old 10-15-2018, 02:16 PM
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Nice seat!

Looks like you just dropped the population of ostriches in the U.S. by a few percentage points...

Everything looks well put together... great selections.

Can't wait to be that far along.
 
  #132  
Old 10-15-2018, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 50COE
Nice seat!

Looks like you just dropped the population of ostriches in the U.S. by a few percentage points...

Everything looks well put together... great selections.

Can't wait to be that far along.
thanks! The pictures of the seat don’t do it justice, I’m going to continue the ostrich in the door panels and headliner.

 
  #133  
Old 10-15-2018, 10:10 PM
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Jake,
You have done a awesome job on that truck. I like the look of no vent window!
Really enjoyed all your pictures. Thanks for taking the time to stop take them and then post them for us! Might help motivate me to get something going in the future!
Regards,
Chris
 
  #134  
Old 10-16-2018, 09:01 AM
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What a great thread. Your skills and work over the year have been really incredible. Beautiful truck!

Greg
 
  #135  
Old 10-16-2018, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Greg Rogers
Nice work, I have to do what you did on my floorboards also. Where did you order your floor boards and were you happy with them? I am putting a 300 6 and a M5R2 transmission in my 56. I bought a entire 92 f 150 (transmission donor) and took out the whole brake/clutch/master cylinder assembly. It looks like it will all fit on the firewall but i don't have it set yet. I plan to use the hydraulic clutch master cylinder also. The pedal assembly off the 92 is relatively compact. I also have a pedal assembly out of a 85 F150 (engine donor) and it is huge and wouldn't work well.
Brace back to dash and maybe extra fire wall plate.
Did you look at using original pedal assembly
 


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