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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

New 1954 F100 Build

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  #61  
Old 11-15-2017, 08:32 AM
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Dunno how I missed this build but really enjoyed reading that. Very impressive work there and quick too. I wouldn't like to give an opinion on the grille but there is a lot of clever software you can use to photoshop it. I like your choice of colour.
 
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  #62  
Old 11-15-2017, 08:08 PM
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Thanks! I'm going to photoshop it tonight and see if I like the look of it. I'm making pretty good progress on the interior this week, trying to finish cleaning up the dash, mount the gauges and pedals, and I need to modify my transmission cover to fit the T5. If things keep progressing at this rate I should be cranking the engine over the thanksgiving weekend for the initial break in!
 
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Old 11-21-2017, 05:48 PM
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I'm a few days into wiring the truck and Oh what fun is this... I've finished up routing all of the wires ( I Think) and I'm starting to terminate connections, this nightmare should be finished by the weekend. I will have to go back later and add the light and wiper switches and terminate those but I'm not worried about that for now.


I also ordered my radiator and fans on Saturday, they should arrive next Monday. The next issue I will run into will be getting the belts and pulleys back onto the engine. The engine I'm using is a 1973 302 out of a boat, obviously it's been bored over and rebuilt as a car engine, but it only had an alternator on it. I don't want to spend money on upgrading to a serpentine belt system right now so what are my options for driving an alternator and power steering with v-belts? Is there a certain configuration I need to run the belts, and a specific length?
 
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  #64  
Old 11-21-2017, 06:03 PM
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There were plenty of 302s in Ford 1/2 Ton trucks. Head to the pick-N-pull and look for a 70 or 80ish Ford pickup. BTW might as well take the brackets, alternator & power steering pump too. Then youíll know your pulleys will all match.
 
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  #65  
Old 11-26-2017, 09:14 PM
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I bought a 2007 cop car yesterday and will be referring to this thread often. What steering column did you use?

I plan to run the cop car engine and tranny at least initially. I am also going with an explorer rear diff. Your ride height looks great.
 
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Old 11-26-2017, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Olboy View Post
I bought a 2007 cop car yesterday and will be referring to this thread often. What steering column did you use?

I plan to run the cop car engine and tranny at least initially. I am also going with an explorer rear diff. Your ride height looks great.

i used the ididit f100 column from speedway:

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ididi...Only,5993.html

Iím going to change the front springs eventually to the 2Ē drop springs from Eaton. I also plan to put a mono leaf in the rear to level it out.

The frint suspension swap is easy, use a mag drill if you have access to one, and move the ifs 1.5Ē forward of where the current suspension is, I didnít at first and had to make new holes.
 
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Old 11-27-2017, 07:42 AM
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About your paint vs. brake fluid issue... I used DOT 5 fluid in my 71 Cutlass and 65 Dodge. Both cars were new systems which were completely empty. DOT 5 won't mix with DOT 4 or 3 so you have to make sure there is no old fluid left. I like it but there is a big debate about it as far as it's properties, etc, etc. The advantage to me is it won't draw moisture from the air as regular brake fluid does. (hydrocsopic) The disadvantage is it's expensive and you cant get it everywhere. I guess I'm not positive wheather it attacks paint or not but I think it is easier on paint. You can check it out on the web.
 
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Old 11-27-2017, 08:34 AM
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Olboy, this may help you installing the CV IFS.

 

Last edited by bjmayberry2; 11-27-2017 at 09:50 AM. Reason: Changed oh ok to olboy.
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  #69  
Old 11-27-2017, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by bjmayberry2 View Post
Ok oh, this may help you installing the CV IFS.


that definitely would have made th swap easier then measure it the way I did. I believe I have the front end true to the frame writhing 1/32Ē, hopefully there is no issue when itís time to do the first alignment.
 
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Old 11-28-2017, 05:11 PM
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The gap from the gauge plate being too small



The future rat nest....



New radiator looks nice!


Decided on stainless radiator hoses, PITA to work with but they should last.

I've just about finished the wiring, at least to the point where I can start the engine and break in the cam. I used the EZ Wiring 21 circuit harness and it seems to have worked well, I also ordered their Shark 6 Gauge set with the 1953-55 F100 dash insert. The gauges look great and feel to be of good quality, I wont know for sure until everything is hooked up. I am having a problem with the dash insert though, it seems to be about an 1/8" short per side, leaving a gap... I contacted EZ Wiring about it and they were supposed to machine a new one today with a little larger face to cover this gap for me. I'll post an update once I have confirmation of that.


I also finished up the radiator plumbing, wired the distributor and alternator, made cut to length plug wires, and routed all of the wiring for the front and rear end through the frame to keep the engine bay clean. The engine harness comes through the firewall just over the transmission, two wires poke thru between the booster and clutch master cylinder for the brake light switch and everything else is hidden.


I am hoping to crank the engine this weekend and break in the cam, if all goes well I will order the driveshaft on Saturday and being plumbing the brakes. I also need to get the gas tank mounted under the bed but I will do that after break in.
 
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Old 12-14-2017, 04:54 PM
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EZ-Wiring.com came thru for me and made a one-off gauge panel to fit my "larger that usual" dash opening.. I'll post pics of it all together once I get the dash painted and everything set in place. I also cranked the engine for the first time and ran the appropriate cam break in procedure, changed the oil and everything looks great. I am running high oil pressure, 60 psi at idle, but it seems to be falling as I run the engine. The first crank it was around 65 psi, last week I cranked it a few times to work on timing and just to let it run and after running it a few times the idle pressure dropped to around 55. Today it was idling around 45, it seems that as the engine breaks in the pressure it getting closer to normal.


This weekend I will be working on running by break lines as well as finally finishing the exhaust, welding in hangers and painting everything.


Getting much closer to being able to take it for the first test drive!
 
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  #72  
Old 12-14-2017, 05:31 PM
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That's good news.

I've only used their wiring harnesses, but they have been top notch. It's nice to know they'll go the extra mile to help a customer.
 
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  #73  
Old 12-14-2017, 06:35 PM
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You are doing a great job here your work is great. I do have one question tho, you are putting a lot of you pocket book and heart into the build, for this reason is why I will suggest you take a second look at the way you mounted those electric fans thru the radiator, in my past experience with this type of install is that within a 1000 miles of running, those pull tie style will do damage to the radiator on one of mine it actually created a leak. My suggestion would be to make a shroud and install fans to it. I will never use the pull tie method again. Once again I do not mean to criticize your work, my intent is to help.
 
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  #74  
Old 12-18-2017, 08:33 PM
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I appreciate the feedback. I'll look into putting a shroud on it, I still have a while before I have to worry about driving it for 1000 miles!
 
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Old 12-18-2017, 08:37 PM
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painted, straightened and mounted exhaust...

I finished up the exhaust this weekend, I think it looks much better now. I'm still thinking about welding some turndowns to make it a little cleaner.


I also started on the brake lines, what's everyone opinion on rear axel brakes. Do I need to run flex lines to the calipers or will I be ok with just one flex line from the frame to the rear axel?
 
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