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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

New 1954 F100 Build

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  #31  
Old 06-18-2017, 05:43 PM
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House of Kolor used to be one of the more pricey paints but PPG has far and away out-priced them in recent years. I use HOK exclusively, I like the Shimrin 2 bases and the KD-3000 sealers. If you are looking for a really nice clear don't look past HOK USC-01 show clear...flows like crazy and dries to a beautiful gloss. Here is a sample of the USC-01, this is right out of the gun with no buffing:
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  #32  
Old 06-18-2017, 06:07 PM
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Very nice gloss Charlie.
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  #33  
Old 06-19-2017, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by CharlieLed View Post
House of Kolor used to be one of the more pricey paints but PPG has far and away out-priced them in recent years. I use HOK exclusively, I like the Shimrin 2 bases and the KD-3000 sealers. If you are looking for a really nice clear don't look past HOK USC-01 show clear...flows like crazy and dries to a beautiful gloss. Here is a sample of the USC-01, this is right out of the gun with no buffing:
Wow, that is a nice gloss. Do you have any issues with paint. Arching being that you are painting in pieces? I would like to start painting my panels but I'm afraid they won't match up properly if I don't do them all at once.
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Old 06-19-2017, 02:24 PM
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I spray all my jobs in sections, that said, if you are spraying solid bases then the match is easy...the only way you can screw it up is if you don't get good coverage. With kandy bases or pearl bases (KBC or PBC) you have to make sure that you are spraying the color base over the same color sealer/base on each panel. I make note of what gun I am using, the pressure at the gun, the mix ratio, and the number of coats of color base sprayed on each panel to be sure that they match.
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Old 08-30-2017, 07:54 PM
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The seat is not mounted in place, this was just to test fit it.



So I know it's been a while since I've updated this thread but I've been hard at work! I finished up the rebuild on a 302 and T5 transmission as well as changed it over to a hydraulic clutch, I still need to adjust it.... I also fabricated some motor mounts that allow the engine to bolt to the crown vic cross member which should allow for a little more room for my headers. I also painted the engine bay and installed the engine and trans. I haven't been able to run the break in cycle yet since I still don't have a radiator.


This week I made another junk yard run and picked up a bench seat from a 1993 GMC that fits like a glove, I will be recovering it once I'm ready to start on interior.


Also tomorrow I'm going back to the junk yard to get the 2003 explorer 8.8 rear end with 4.10 gears and a posi-track. I'll be cleaning that up this weekend and if it doesn't need a rebuild I will also install that over the weekend.


My wife and kids are out of town for a few days so over the next weekend I'm hoping to finish up the body work and I may paint the interior, hood, cab, and front fenders, I was going to wait until I purchased the bed and running boards but I'm starting to get antsy and I want to see some color on this thing.
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Old 08-30-2017, 07:56 PM
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The pictures show a lot more orange peel than there actually is, it was a PITA to reach across and spray the fenders. I will cut and buff it all when I start on the outside...
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Old 09-05-2017, 11:42 PM
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Pinion angle is set at -3 degrees


I still need to replace the shock corssmember


rear sway bar mounts need to be removed


currently as she sits, Now I'm trying to finish up the body work so I can get the new bed on it.

So this past weekend I made a good bit of progress. I decided to get after the frame with a wire wheel and finished dealing with the last of the rust... Then I etch primed the frame, brushed it in duplicolor rubberized undercoat and sprayed on top of that with 3M undercoat to make sure everything is thoroughly covered.


I then proceeded to c-notch the rear and box it in. I then made another voyage to the scrap yard were I found a 1997 explorer with a 4L.10 rear. I cleaned it up, checked the bearing and gears, flushed it with brake cleaner a few times then replaced the oil with royal purple and slid it in place. I currently have it tacked in place because I'm not sure of the pinion angle yet..


I'll try to work on that more this weekend, any recommendations on how to verify I have the correct angle and that it is inline with the trans?
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  #38  
Old 09-10-2017, 01:47 AM
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I'm really enjoying your build thread. Good job. I have a 98 explorer 8.8 limited slip 3.73 rear in mine but I have no idea if I got the pinion angle correct. I think it's so hard to be sure untill it's loaded down to final drive height. I have done some trailer pulling but don't have a ton of miles on it but the U joints haven't fallen out yet. What would really love to do is send mine over to you to get it painted. I'm such a hack at painting so I'll be needing to redo it too soon. Keep up the good work.
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  #39  
Old 09-10-2017, 10:35 AM
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Thanks! Painting is easy, prepping for paint is a pain in the neck. I'm just about finished with body work on the cab, then I just need to prime it again with 2k and let it sit for a few weeks.

I final welded the spring perches yesterday, I put an angle finder on the trans and it was pointing 4 degrees down so I set my pinion at 4 degrees up. I'm just hoping they are inline once I put the drive shaft in...
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Old 09-10-2017, 07:56 PM
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Great Progress & Selections

Your project is really looking great!

I also used the CV front suspension in my 50 COE restomod pickup and (I'm not done yet) but it's worked out perfectly. I'd recommend boxing in your frame around the area in front... looks like you've already done the rear.

If you ever decide you want to go with bags, I purchased mine from RideTech... super easy to install and gives you total flexibility of ride height etc.

I also used a D2 code 4.10 limited slip rear from an explorer -- for me it was perfect because it was about 9" more narrow than the CV front suspension -- allowed for much wider / deep wheel tires on the rear... My COE is wider than the standard pickups so it worked in my favor to be able to stuff wider tires up under it without hardly noticing.

Really like how yours is coming together... looking forward to watching your progress.
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  #41  
Old 09-12-2017, 06:42 PM
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Thanks!


I actually boxed my frame from the firewall to the radiator support, the front end should be rigid enough to handle the new drivetrain, I also boxed the rear around the c-notch. I would like to go with bags in the future, I'm concerned with the wheel clearance over the CV ifs, it looks ok now but I want to make that decision after I have the final wheel and tires on it...


I received the exhaust tubing today, the headers are expected tomorrow. I'm going to run 2.5" exhaust with thrush rattlers and an H-pipe. I'm hoping to get most of this fabricated this weekend but who knows...
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  #42  
Old 11-03-2017, 07:51 PM
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The bed finally arrived, LMC packaging is awesome!



all fitted up and teardrops installed



mini-tubs made from tractor supply trailer fender


this is my replacement for the chains, the stainless cable tucks into the stake pocket when the tailgate is picked up


this is what the tailgate cable looks like when the tailgate it up


roll pan tacked on with stake pocket extensions


side view of the roll pan
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  #43  
Old 11-03-2017, 07:57 PM
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Peterbilt metallic green

So as you can see if the pictures above, I have been hard at work. the exhaust is about 90% complete, I still may change them and have the exhaust exit thru the running boards. The rear fenders are stripped and ready for primer, the tubs are complete, the tailgate is complete, I just need to finish up the roll pan and stake pocket extensions then the bed is ready for primer. I also need to fit the running boards and weld on the mounting brackets for them... Next I plan to French in the tail lights, and start working on wiring this thing up temporarily so I can finally crank it up. I also have a CPP firewall brake booster and bracket that will go in shortly and last but not least I decided to change the color. The GM black cherry looks way to purple in the sun. I work for PACCAR, who own Peterbilt so I have access to some rather interesting colors that you don't see everyday. I decided to chance to a Peterbilt Metallic Olive Green, it looks extremely bright on the door inspection panel but will look much more olive when its on a full panel.
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Old 11-04-2017, 08:44 AM
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Great job, you have made so much progress since the last time I looked. I love it, you must have a great wife, it looks like you are working out of your attached garage? I see the bicycle and the guitar. I'll bet it gets messy when sanding and painting! It looks like you are getting professional results. Congratulations, I'm following along.
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  #45  
Old 11-04-2017, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg Rogers View Post
Great job, you have made so much progress since the last time I looked. I love it, you must have a great wife, it looks like you are working out of your attached garage? I see the bicycle and the guitar. I'll bet it gets messy when sanding and painting! It looks like you are getting professional results. Congratulations, I'm following along.
thanks Greg! I am working out of a 2 car attached garage and boy does it ever get messy. I promised my wife that I would epoxy the garage floor once the truck is painted to coverup all of the spills and damage Iíve caused to it.

Im taking my time and trying to get everything hung perfect before I move onto the next step, this isnít my first restoration but it is the first time I do a complete frame off that needed this much rust repair and body work. This has been a very fun project and itís atarting to get to the rewarding phase!
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