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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

New 1954 F100 Build

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  #16  
Old 03-14-2017, 12:53 AM
jakevidrine jakevidrine is offline
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I ordered the floorboards from lmc and the seem to be a very close match to the factory. The rear pan is 18 gauge and edp coated, the front are 16 gauge and are bare steel. Everything has gone back together well, I also ordered replacement front mounting plates and rubber.

On a side note I didn't get anything done this weekend besides prepping the cv ifs for install. I'm hoping to get it installed on Wednesday, I'll take plenty of pictures..
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Old 03-17-2017, 09:04 PM
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I finished up the floor pans this morning! All of the rust repair is finally completed with the exception of the firewall holes and the dimmer switch plate, I am fabricating a box to hold the dimmer rather than the little bowl that is formed in the firewall.


I was able to spray the floor in epoxy primer before I left for work today, when I get home tonight I will put a few coats of 3M Undercoating on it. I sprayed the epoxy very thick so it has a few sags in it, this wont show with the undercoating so I'm not sweating it.


I also managed to get the CV IFS swap done this week, tomorrow I will finished up that project, mount the trailing arms and sway bar then box in the frame. I will also be installing new rear leaf mounts for the front and rear of the rear leafs. I also purchased drop shackles and adjustable mounts so I should be able to get a solid 4.5" out of the rear drop. I will be replacing the rear leafs soon too so I should get a little more out of it.


I'll post more pics after I'm finished tomorrow but here is a shot of the floor pans in SPI red oxide. I put nearly 11# of wire on this, definitely sealed up and possible holes!


I also need to clean up the firewall and get it ready for primer, I'm really shooting to have the cab completely in epoxy this weekend... may be a long shot but I'm going to try like hell.
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Old 03-21-2017, 06:19 PM
jakevidrine jakevidrine is offline
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So I managed to get a lot done over the past few days... completely stripped the cab, washed it with soap and water, then acetone, then wax and grease remover, then got the cab in epoxy primer... same thing with the hood, de-rusted it, washed, and primed.


I also managed to get the CV IFS remounted... it wasn't quite square enough for my liking, it was off about 1/8", after some major adjustments I have it true within 1/32".


I also filled about 75 holes in the firewall and several holes in the dash as well as finished disassembly of the interior dash components...


Tonight I am going to get the cab and hood in 2k primer so I can start the painstaking body work. Here's a few pics to keep everyone satisfied.


The IFS is not welded out, it is hard tacked in place. I will final weld it once I get my plasma back, I loaned it to a friend working out of state for a few weeks. I need the plasma to trim the boxing plates to size since I had to notch the frame.
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Old 03-23-2017, 07:13 PM
Outlaw56 Outlaw56 is offline
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I see a gallon of SPI Epoxy. Good stuff.
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Old 03-23-2017, 07:36 PM
jakevidrine jakevidrine is offline
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Everything is getting 2 coats of spi epoxy in red oxide followed by either 3 coats of slick sand for the old metal or 2 coats of spi urethane primer for the new metal. Once it is all blocked out in 220 I will put another coat or two of spi urethane then block to 600.

Im leaning toward HOK shimirin2 paints right now with spi clear... still haven't decided completely on the paint.
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Old 03-23-2017, 09:56 PM
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HOK is nice stuff but pricey
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Old 03-25-2017, 12:46 AM
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Yea it is, I figured it would cost me around $1300 for materials to do this in HOK. honest that's more than I want to pay but I may still do it.

Ive also been looking st different paint colors at a few local shops here, in going to try our late 80's gm black cherry tomorrow as I have a quart to test.

Im also starting the blocking process tomorrow, everything has a few coats of slick sand on it...

i also got my Altman latches in today so I will try to hand the doors and get those installed soon. I ordered the majority of things I need to finish up the cab.... not I just need to find a seat for a decent prime.. anyone have any recommendations??
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Old 03-27-2017, 07:03 AM
jakevidrine jakevidrine is offline
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What do you think about nason basecoat folioroeed by spi clear? I shot a test panel in nason gm black cherry this weekend and I love the color and the metallic laid nicely. I don't know if it's worth stepping up the chromabase or if nason would work well, I'm sure everyone has an opinion so let's hear it...
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Old 06-16-2017, 11:16 PM
jakevidrine jakevidrine is offline
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sorry for the extremely delayed response... I ordered the floor pans parts from LMC and I am very happy with them, they are an exact replica of the original except they seem thicker. That may be because mine were extremely rusted...
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Old 06-16-2017, 11:25 PM
jakevidrine jakevidrine is offline
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I apologize for not updating this post but I have been super busy with the truck and work. I've completed all of the cab and front end rust repair, installed the hood tilt, added custom inner fenders, added an ididit tilt column, finished the front suspension, and just got my 302 block back from the machine shop.


Hopefully I get to start on the engine build this weekend...


I've also primed everything in SPI epoxy, then a few coats of slicksand and starting blocking like crazy. The passenger side, hood and driver's fender is done in 220, the driver door, roof and back wall are currently being worked on. My plan is to get everything blocked out to 220 then put 3 coats of SPI 2K and let it sit all summer. This fall I will block it down to 600 then paint. I want to allow time for the 2K to fully shrink and im not in a hurry. This will also allow time for the drivetrain to be assembled and tested as well as the brakes. I plan on building the entire truck, then tearing it all down for paint.
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Old 06-16-2017, 11:28 PM
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Old 06-17-2017, 06:48 AM
turnrjr turnrjr is online now
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Following your build. Nice job! What has been your process to deal with de-rusting on body panels that are surface rusted to varying degrees? Your photo of the door bottom replacement shows a surface rusted area above the patch panel. I have been trying different products / methods including electrolysis (small stuff), white vinegar, Eastwood Fast Etch. I just bought a gallon of Evaporust. Thanks.
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Old 06-17-2017, 07:42 AM
jakevidrine jakevidrine is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turnrjr View Post
Following your build. Nice job! What has been your process to deal with de-rusting on body panels that are surface rusted to varying degrees? Your photo of the door bottom replacement shows a surface rusted area above the patch panel. I have been trying different products / methods including electrolysis (small stuff), white vinegar, Eastwood Fast Etch. I just bought a gallon of Evaporust. Thanks.

i started out using 40 grit pads on my da to strip all the rust and paint, I need up using several crimped wire wheel cups from harbor freight. That stripped the majority of the rust and paint. Then I soaked everything in fastetch from Eastwood for 24 hours, this turns any rust to a black hard scaled primer. After that I went over everything with the wire wheels again until I removed all of the rust, this took forever but I think I removed it all.

I also have have a small sand blaster that I use to shoot areas I cans sand or hit with a wire wheel.

once everything is stripped I was the panels with soap and water, then acetone, the wax and grease remover. I try to epoxy prime asap once dry.
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Old 06-17-2017, 12:19 PM
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Nason is good paint I use it almost exclusively although waterbourne is very nice to spray and covers much faster than solvent based but a PIA to clean out of gun . I would splurge for a better quality clear over more expensive base .
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Old 06-17-2017, 12:56 PM
jakevidrine jakevidrine is offline
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Originally Posted by EBEAR View Post
Nason is good paint I use it almost exclusively although waterbourne is very nice to spray and covers much faster than solvent based but a PIA to clean out of gun . I would splurge for a better quality clear over more expensive base .
I have both nason and omni base, I haven't decided which to use yet, I'll shoot a test panel with each then Decide. I also have finish 1st and spi clear, I'll also shoot the trst panels with each before I make my decision.
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