2003 E450 7.3L Box Truck No-start
#1
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
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2003 E450 7.3L Box Truck No-start
I bought this 16' box truck today for a Christian Food Pantry and need some help. 213k, 2003. It doesn't start and the owner gave a really good bottom dollar deal for all these reasons.
Showing up armed with Torque Pro and my bluetooth adapter, I proceeded to plug it in and check for rpms, HPOP, Battery voltage, etc. No power to port
Find fuse diagram the owner located and fuse 23 is the OBD port. No fuse in place. He found us a fuse, I plugged it in, viola! Power to the port, TP is in action, ready to troubleshoot.
"Charged" battery, start cranking...no start. No Torque Pro (!)
Apparently, the OBD port is cut-off while cranking
Is there some other fuse or connection that will keep it connected during cranking so I can check for RPMs (no dash gauge for it)?
As soon as I left off the starter, the HPOP on TP showed 1212 then 850, then continued to drop with in about 2 secs. I figure it is getting good HPOP and this is the momentary bleed off.
PO replaced some time ago CPS with Autozone or something in an attempt to start it. No go. I am going to take my "emergency" CPS next time to see if that does it.
Because of the cranking-cutout, I cannot see FIPW. No way to know if the injectors are firing.
It had reportedly been running a short time ago (weeks maybe?) and shut off while parked in the parking lot and never started again.
Batteries are low, but new-ish starter and cranks well. With jumpers, able to maintain 10.8v or so while cranking, though it was a bit up and down. I'll take a strong charger with 200amp boost mode next time.
Fuel pump runs. I can feel/hear it when the key is cycled.
It has standard Rotella 15w-40w on this 50F day. Reportedly *wants* to be plugged in to start. I plan to switch to 5w-40w synthetic as soon as I can get it home.
It's automatic, pretty sure all van/stock. Here's a pic. Dog box gives good access to turbo and such, but everything else...ugh!
One battery under hood, other under cab/body. Has green antifreeze and leak at thermostat.
My goal is to get it running to get it home, about 30 miles, then replace ICP, CPS, IPR, Glowplugs (relay already done), thermostat and top housing and hose, convert to lifetime antifreeze, oil change to 5w-40w synthetic, 2 batteries (test alternator), uppipes or gaskets, Air filter (what upgrades available for this?), UVCH, idler pulleys and belt, replace trans fluid and filter, couple tires, paint inside box, weld and reinforce rear bumper, add radio, check cigarette plugs (think cell phones and gps), general cleanup.
I will have it and run it around 30 days. If it is solid and reliable, off to West Virginia it goes. If not, I'll part it out to get back what I can from it. I am paying for it up front, they are raising donations. But I won't let them pay anything (costs only) for it until I'm satisfied. All my time and efforts are donated...and some parts
They need to run it about 5hrs round trip once a month immediately. That's about 3k miles per year. But I'm sure they will find lots of other uses, such as building supplies, etc. I'm hoping the injectors hold up for a while.
Right now they have multiple vehicles, trailers, drivers donating their time and vehicles (reimbursed for fuel only). It would be much better to take one hauling truck and one or two passenger vehicles for helpers...hence the box truck idea.
They distributed approximately 100k lbs of food last year. I'm hoping this truck will help.
NOT refrigerated, not needed. No CDL needed, about 14k GAVW.
The PO has offered his carport where it is parked now, or even to push it into his garage with limited tools (I can bring some) to get it to run. Otherwise...
HOW TO GET THIS HOME??? Too heavy for my buddy's tow truck from the front. Wheels too far from back of box to reach them from the rear. No tow loops in front for tow bar, UHaul dolly rated at 4k (maybe?)
Dual rear wheels.
Anything else I'm missing?
Showing up armed with Torque Pro and my bluetooth adapter, I proceeded to plug it in and check for rpms, HPOP, Battery voltage, etc. No power to port
Find fuse diagram the owner located and fuse 23 is the OBD port. No fuse in place. He found us a fuse, I plugged it in, viola! Power to the port, TP is in action, ready to troubleshoot.
"Charged" battery, start cranking...no start. No Torque Pro (!)
Apparently, the OBD port is cut-off while cranking
Is there some other fuse or connection that will keep it connected during cranking so I can check for RPMs (no dash gauge for it)?
As soon as I left off the starter, the HPOP on TP showed 1212 then 850, then continued to drop with in about 2 secs. I figure it is getting good HPOP and this is the momentary bleed off.
PO replaced some time ago CPS with Autozone or something in an attempt to start it. No go. I am going to take my "emergency" CPS next time to see if that does it.
Because of the cranking-cutout, I cannot see FIPW. No way to know if the injectors are firing.
It had reportedly been running a short time ago (weeks maybe?) and shut off while parked in the parking lot and never started again.
Batteries are low, but new-ish starter and cranks well. With jumpers, able to maintain 10.8v or so while cranking, though it was a bit up and down. I'll take a strong charger with 200amp boost mode next time.
Fuel pump runs. I can feel/hear it when the key is cycled.
It has standard Rotella 15w-40w on this 50F day. Reportedly *wants* to be plugged in to start. I plan to switch to 5w-40w synthetic as soon as I can get it home.
It's automatic, pretty sure all van/stock. Here's a pic. Dog box gives good access to turbo and such, but everything else...ugh!
One battery under hood, other under cab/body. Has green antifreeze and leak at thermostat.
My goal is to get it running to get it home, about 30 miles, then replace ICP, CPS, IPR, Glowplugs (relay already done), thermostat and top housing and hose, convert to lifetime antifreeze, oil change to 5w-40w synthetic, 2 batteries (test alternator), uppipes or gaskets, Air filter (what upgrades available for this?), UVCH, idler pulleys and belt, replace trans fluid and filter, couple tires, paint inside box, weld and reinforce rear bumper, add radio, check cigarette plugs (think cell phones and gps), general cleanup.
I will have it and run it around 30 days. If it is solid and reliable, off to West Virginia it goes. If not, I'll part it out to get back what I can from it. I am paying for it up front, they are raising donations. But I won't let them pay anything (costs only) for it until I'm satisfied. All my time and efforts are donated...and some parts
They need to run it about 5hrs round trip once a month immediately. That's about 3k miles per year. But I'm sure they will find lots of other uses, such as building supplies, etc. I'm hoping the injectors hold up for a while.
Right now they have multiple vehicles, trailers, drivers donating their time and vehicles (reimbursed for fuel only). It would be much better to take one hauling truck and one or two passenger vehicles for helpers...hence the box truck idea.
They distributed approximately 100k lbs of food last year. I'm hoping this truck will help.
NOT refrigerated, not needed. No CDL needed, about 14k GAVW.
The PO has offered his carport where it is parked now, or even to push it into his garage with limited tools (I can bring some) to get it to run. Otherwise...
HOW TO GET THIS HOME??? Too heavy for my buddy's tow truck from the front. Wheels too far from back of box to reach them from the rear. No tow loops in front for tow bar, UHaul dolly rated at 4k (maybe?)
Dual rear wheels.
Anything else I'm missing?
#3
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
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I didn't know there were delamination issues with the diesels? Pickup feet maybe? It is between 1/4 and 1/2 tank.
It doesn't have any fuel gauges. PO said the filter bowl was full. I will bring more tools next time and be ready to check for fuel spraying out the drain valve.
#4
If the tank isn't poly, then the delamination issue is a real possibility. It's my understanding most of the non-pickup trucks have metal fuel tanks. Aftermarket CPS... I think your spare has a chance of helping out. You could very well be out of fuel with no fuel gauge - or a dropped foot on less than 1/2 tank.
#5
An E model, eh? You will soon acquire an appreciation for working on the F models. I have read plenty on here about delamination in the fuel tanks and my short bus had a steel tank mounted center rear, I'll bet that one does too. I got the lumber for my trailer and replacing the floor is now a WIP, if only you were closer...I do still have a stash of parts from that adventure so check with me before you buy anything.
#6
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
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An E model, eh? You will soon acquire an appreciation for working on the F models. I have read plenty on here about delamination in the fuel tanks and my short bus had a steel tank mounted center rear, I'll bet that one does too. I got the lumber for my trailer and replacing the floor is now a WIP, if only you were closer...I do still have a stash of parts from that adventure so check with me before you buy anything.
There is NO ROOM to work on the top of these things
Rich- The fuel gauge works, but no fuel pressure gauge. It's going to be impossible to reach the bowl to install one without removing it. I'll probably put that on my list, along with rebuilding the fuel bowl.
Anyone know how to check for delam? I hadn't even considered that as a possibility. Is there a recall on the tanks?
Thanks!
#7
There is NO ROOM to work on the top of these things
Rich- The fuel gauge works, but no fuel pressure gauge. It's going to be impossible to reach the bowl to install one without removing it. I'll probably put that on my list, along with rebuilding the fuel bowl.
Thanks!
Rich- The fuel gauge works, but no fuel pressure gauge. It's going to be impossible to reach the bowl to install one without removing it. I'll probably put that on my list, along with rebuilding the fuel bowl.
Thanks!
Trending Topics
#8
I believe the only way to check for delam is to drop the tank
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...fuel-tank.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...fuel-tank.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...fuel-tank.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...fuel-tank.html
#9
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
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I believe the only way to check for delam is to drop the tank
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...fuel-tank.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...fuel-tank.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...fuel-tank.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...fuel-tank.html
I sure hope that isn't it!
Those tanks are long and narrow. This one is square, more like the one on my Excursion.
Next trip I'll check to see if it is steel or poly. I'm hoping for the latter!
#12
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Found this:
Found in this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...dor-brand.html
Does this help or hurt my cause?
Does this help or hurt my cause?
#13
Found this:
Found in this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...dor-brand.html
Does this help or hurt my cause?
Found in this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...dor-brand.html
Does this help or hurt my cause?
#15
Well it is 14 years old Although many years ago when my Dad retired he bought a brand new F-350 with a 460 gasser to tow his 5th wheel around the continent. The truck had sat in a lot in Northern Illinois for about a year with nearly empty tanks waiting to be sold to someone. He had trouble immediately and it was discovered the tanks had "rusted out". Of course they took care of it under warranty.