I'll keep this as short as possible. I have a 1965 F100 with a 1972 F100 front end holding a 1972 Lincoln Continental (slightly built) 460 motor. The radiator is not stock but I have no idea where it came from. I'm told by the original owner that it did not come from the Lincoln or the 72 ford F100 but he doesn't remember. I have not checked yet since I would have to drain some coolant but the original owner believes it is a 3 row rad.

So while driving the temp stays around 140 degrees but as soon as I hit stop and go traffic or sitting at a red light the temp slowly starts to climb. Usually it reaches up to 180-190 degrees over time and if traffic is really bad I have seen it hit a bit over 220 degrees. It would continue to climb but usually I'm able to start moving again and the temp goes right back down to 140-160 depending on speed.

Now this is the winter time here in SoCal so I'm very worried about the upcoming summer. Thankfully this is just my weekend driver.

Now I have a clutch fan and no shroud. The way the motor sits in the bay the fan does not center up on the rad but is off towards the passenger side.

I've been trying to find a shroud that will work but so far I've had no luck. I'll post some pictures so you can see what I'm dealing with.

I was thinking about running Evans waterless coolant for a start, and maybe rigging up some sort of shroud but I have very limited space.

I also tossed around the idea of installing an electric fan on the front of the A/C radiator which is a factory unit from Ford that is mounted in front of the main RAD.

I'm not too sure what I should do. I would like to keep cooling mechanical if possible but something needs to be done.

Do you think adding a shroud will make a big difference? Anyone use Evans waterless coolant in their truck? Should I remove the mechanical fan and go electric? (Though doing this would mean upgrading to HO alt and stuff.)

Any input welcome.

 

Since your problem is inadequate airflow, then yes, I think the shroud will make a noticeable improvement. As for the Evans waterless coolant, I think it will not do much for cooling if the system is otherwise free of obstructions, but it will prevent corrosion so it will stay running cool longer (once you solve the cooling problem of course).


Welcome to the forum, and nice truck!

 

Thanks 66v8baby. Yeah I knew from the start that a shroud would most likely solve my temp issue. The day I bought the truck I mentioned to the guy that I'd have to put a shroud on it.

Looking at the rad size (it's actually a pretty big radiator) and the way it is offset from the engine fan, I think I would have to do a custom shroud. I'd love to find a shroud that would work with slight modification but so far no luck.

 

Are these problems new and were not occurring with the previous owner or when you first got the truck?

I wonder if the clutch fan might not be engaging correctly or completely. I assume that is a thermostatic clutch fan. They can have issues sometimes. I like running a solid fan these days since there is basically nothing that can go wrong with them.

I assume your engine has a good working thermostat installed in the right direction. You might double-check it just to be sure. 140 sounds sort of cool if your thermostat is working correctly. It should be closing at that low of a temp and bringing it back up closer to what the thermostat is rated at.

I've seen thermostats that were installed correctly but failed and the whole thing came apart internally so it never closed completely and never opened fully. Could not tell until it was removed.

Other things to consider would be crud in the radiator, crud in the engine block cooling jackets, and condition of the overall system including radiator hoses.

Chad

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Verify ignition timing is correct and carb tune. Consider changing pulleys to get bigger pulley on crank and smaller pulleys on water pump. As stated, check clutch fan or go to solid fan.

A shroud will likely help your situation.

You could see how many cubes you actually have to see if it's a stroker motor. I'd think your radiator should be big enough for 460 cubes, but 385 motors can be stroked well into the 500 cubes.

220F is okay but wouldn't want to see it go a lot higher.

BTW, that's a sweet looking truck !

 

The original owner claimed that the highest the temp would get is around 225 degrees in traffic (stop and go) and that he never considered it an issue. He must have had concerns though as he told me many people told him to install a shroud but he just never got around to it.

I might have to replace the fan clutch as well. I'm pretty sure when I checked it the fan spun freely and that shouldn't happen as far as I know.

The motor is not stroked out. It has very minor upgrades (manifold, carb, headers) and it was rebuilt back in 99. I have all the paperwork for it so I can see what was done.

 

IMHO.....

I was thinking about running Evans waterless coolant for a start- waste of $$$

maybe rigging up some sort of shroud but I have very limited space.- Very good idea

I also tossed around the idea of installing an electric fan on the front of the A/C- Waste of $$$

The mechanical fan is more than enough but is the fan clutch good? Definitely check the thermostat as it is definitely not functioning correctly....temp should not drop that low! Flush the radiator and if you have any doubt, get it flow tested.

I would definitely trouble shoot rather than replacing parts....and although ignition timing may play a part, it will definitely be most likely an indirect part......the only time that would come into play is if the ignition timing is advancing too far....so you will likely hear pinging and it could show tendency to overheat.

 

In my experience, the fan needs to spin at least as fast but preferably a smidge (10%) faster than the motor at idle on these monster V8's.

Or you could switch to one of those twin electric t-stat controlled fans. I've never used (or needed) one but they're supposed to really pull some air and that would take care of needing a shroud. Sorry I can't recommend a product or how to install...it's just a brainstorm idea.

 

I will test the thermostat this weekend as well as the clutch fan. I think the clutch fan is not working correctly.

Thanks for all the input guys.

@Beechkid

Thanks. I'll save the money and make my own shroud (most likely buy a universal shroud that I can modify) I'll skip evans and electric fan.


Anyone know what would be considered normal operating temps for this truck/motor combo? 180-200?

 

Have a similar situation. My '65 has a 390 with 3 row radiator. Now my truck isn't on the road yet but I have taken it around the neighborhood just for ****s and giggles. Never overheated but did run a bit hot. Yesterday while putzing around with other things I let the truck idle for about an hour. It overheated. Since it's not the original engine sometimes knowing which parts are correct is a chore. Long story short I had a rad cap for the original 352 which was rated at 7lbs. Today I changed that to a 16lb and no overheating after again idling for an hour. Still a bit hot for my comfort here in AZ though. I plan on changing to a 160deg thermostat and searching for a shroud as well.

 

I have no idea what my thermostat is rated for. I may just replace it anyways just so I know the temp rating. I would imagine it is the stock thermostat but unless there is a stamped part number on it I won't know. Looking at the parts shop it looks like I can buy 160 to 195 degree thermostats for this engine.

 

1965/67 F100/350 352: The thermostat's are 2 1/2" in diameter!

Most auto parts store parts clucks will want to sell you the 2 1/8" diameter stats (introduced in 1968), because this is all their computers list.

So tell the parts cluck to look up the '65/67 stats in their paper parts catalogs, usually stashed under the counter.

btw: If you can spin the fan freely (engine off of course!), the fan clutch is worn out. Fan clutch is a viscous drive, if OK...will drag if fan spun by hand.

 

A failed fan clutch would account for an airflow problem at idle, so that's a valid point. A thermostat opening too soon when driving and too late when idling is not realistic.

Replace the fan clutch with a fixed spacer first since that is cheap and easy and will diagnose the clutch as being the culprit or not. If you want to retain a fan clutch you can then get a new one, just make sure it's the thermostatic type. If you still have a problem then tackle the fan shroud.

 

Don't know for sure about the 385 series engines but I run my FE engine with a 195 t-stat to drive any moisture out of the oil and keep the valve covers from snotting up.

 

140 thermostate comes standard in a boat!
Move up to at least a 160
I to think it's the clutch fan
Let us know