I would try a paint stripper, should bubble off that last bit of clearcoat or what ever finish is on it??

 

I was thinking the same thing, an old yellowed clear lacquer coat.

 

Whew, I glad Scotty came along and typed about the Berryman product. Don't you hate auto-correct? I thought ct50f1 used some kind of tobacco spit juice to clean his carb.... a chew-dip!

 

If the carb is left uncoated it will oxidize, inside, outside, internal passages. That's always an issue with cleaning old carbs. How to remove years of carbon soot and grime without removing the coating that was originally applied. Almost better off with mild solvent and time scrubbing to try to preserve the original finish. Eastwood sells a "Carb Renew" paint that mimics the yellow gold color dichromate finish. For paint it looks pretty good. You can paint the outside but obviously not the inside. Since it is paint, cleaners and gas will damage it. But it's still better than leaving it bare.

http://www.eastwood.com/carb-renew-2...osol-5-oz.html

 

I checked the Eastwood site. The product looks pretty good. Their directions say the carb must be disassembled with the Jets out. Is it not safe to spray it with the carb assembled with the mouth taped shut?

 

abe, I don't know why you cannot do what you are thinking. I've used it once on an older Holley main body that had most of the original finish worn off. The trick is several light coats until you get the finish and color you desire.

If you have an EBay account and want to go through the effort you can send this guy a message. He sells new Holley carb parts and rebuilt carbs. I know you are working with a different carb. But, I'm pretty sure he has somebody that recolors/recoats carbs with that goldish color dichromate finish. He gave me the contact info a few years ago but I cannot find it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HOLLEY-4412-...ZXMn23&vxp=mtr

 

Before...


After...


Another after...


I quit painting the cast iron bases in favor of a more authentic process.

another partial...

 

I believe the OP's pictured carburetor would have been done with a clear or "blue" chromate, not yellow. I think the yellow came about in '52 or so. I do st& 2b corrected, however.

As far as cleaning, a 24 hr + soak in acetone will do wonders. Keep it in a sealed container, or your acetone will be giving algore fits and doing no good on the goo. Follow that up with a passage cleaning with a can of cheap carburetor spray. I will not post my next step(s) as it will make people cringe.

 

Nice work 52 Henry. So how do you finish the iron base of the carb?

 

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/pictur...ictureid=21350

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/pictur...ictureid=21349

A ****** Jeep Carter WO pictured.

Clean it, blast it, blow out beads, plate it, gun blue, and a rub down with my proprietary beeswax and oil. I did not say authentic, but more authentic. I did experiment with iron phosphate, as that is what was used originally, AFAIK. But, man what a pain. A lot of prep work getting the witch's brew going for one piece of metal. After the first base, the color wasn't consistent on consecutive pieces.

 

The Berryman's seems to be doing a pretty good job but I may have to apply a little elbow grease to get all of that finish. Once it's cleaned up my real concern will be finding a product to recoat it that will stand up to gasoline.

 

Can carbs be powder-coated? They have clear.

 

I've seen some Holley race carbs by DaVinci carbs powder coated. Keeping the internal passages and air bleeds clean during the powder coating process is I think the main concern. Typically, WD40 is used to clean powder coated carbs.

 

Safe spaces and coloring books will be provided by a special Snowflake Response Team. C'mon man, give up the goods!

 

That picture showing the pealing yellow coating on your carb looks like someone dipped it in shellac.
Definitely not something that was put on there by ford.


Kirk