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Holley Carb Help

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Old Mar 4, 2017 | 02:33 PM
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Holley Carb Help


Gentlemen,


I have a 1967 F500 farm truck with a dump bed. It's equipped with a 330 and that's carbureted by a Holley 6819. I'm trying to figure out why it won't idle when cold. The manual doesn't address this particular carb. One thought is missing vacuum line(s). I have attached a photo of the carb showing a spot where I think one is missing (yellow arrow). So, what (if anything) is missing in this photo? Thanks in advance for your help- Bill
 
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Old Mar 4, 2017 | 07:58 PM
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JEFFFAFA!!!!!!
 
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Old Mar 4, 2017 | 10:48 PM
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that's for a metal line that supplies hot air for the choke to open up, should run down to the manifold somewhere.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2017 | 10:55 PM
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It's a Vacuum heat pickup tube that should fit into the exh. manifold hole about 3/16" this tube usually has a insulation jacket around it that keeps the tubes heat in that's being sucked in to the port you have marked with the yellow arrow.
Orich
 
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 06:27 AM
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So the quick answer is to convert to manual choke. The auto choke stove pipes typically rot away or are removed and not replaced during maintenance. Additionally, there is a material like a coarse steel wool that is in the manifold that keeps junk out of the air draw. Problem is, this too rusts away and then the junk gets pulled into the auto choke usually seizing it. If you elect to replace the stove pipe setup (two pipes, one from the air horn for clean air that goes to the bottom of the manifold, one from the top of the manifold for hot air to choke) be sure to use some shop air, a mask and eye protection to blow out the manifold passage to clear it of these particles. It will be a mess when you pull the trigger on the blower. Manual choke kits are cheap and plentiful and there's usually one hanging on the wall of every parts shop.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 06:40 AM
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That missing heat tube is not going to make it idle right when cold all of a sudden if you replace it. It is just there to suck warm air into the choke housing to assist in opening the choke butterfly. Check fuel filters, float level.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 08:11 AM
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The choke is there to enrich the mixture when 'closed.' If it is wide open all the time then it cannot accomplish its intended purpose, and idle will suffer depending on how cold it is outside. The choke spring will also have to be adjusted such that the choke closes to the proper level when cold. Once sufficiently warm, the choke opens (auto choke). The OP stated he only had issues when cold.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Rasputin53
The choke is there to enrich the mixture when 'closed.' If it is wide open all the time then it cannot accomplish its intended purpose, and idle will suffer depending on how cold it is outside. The choke spring will also have to be adjusted such that the choke closes to the proper level when cold. Once sufficiently warm, the choke opens (auto choke). The OP stated he only had issues when cold.
2x with Rasputin53........Orich
 
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 11:06 AM
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Adding a manual choke then. I've got one on my 1954 F750 so I have a decent idea how to proceed. It's a new fuel line pump and filter so I think I'm getting plenty of fuel. It runs GREAT on warm days. I drove it about 90 mins on the highway to get it home from the other farm back on a 75 degree day and it's started right up and never sputtered...cold it won't start without ether and won't run without about 30-40% of the pedal depressed until it's warm, then it runs OK. I'm looking to fix "farmerized" parts and problems so I can run this thing back and forth to the gravel pit in a couple weeks to get some culverts set for planting. Thanks again for the help!
 
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 11:16 AM
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Please reply back with the fitted fix follow up.
Thanks

Orich
 
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Old Mar 6, 2017 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 351Cleveland C4
JEFFFAFA!!!!!!
That may have been a heat supply tube. I don't think so though. That housing that fitting is in is not the choke housing. It is for a 330 H/D carb governor. 330 L/D got Autolite 2V carbs with no governor. I dunno how the governor system worked. Originally the Dizzy would be taller than normal and part of the governor system in it also. This might have been swapped out since 1967. That fitting may have originally supplied vacuum to the vacuum advance on the Dizzy. If it were me, I'd trash that governor carb and buy a Holley list #7448 350 CFM 2V carb or a list #4412 500 CFM carb. Both are set up for a manual choke. Ford does list a factory choke cable for a 1967 F500 330/361. Remove that governor carb and measure what it's bore size is.
#7448 350 CFM is 1 1/2".
#4412 500 CFM (super deuce) is 1 11/16".
I don't know what the CFM rating was on the governor Holley.
***
****
Hey Bill, can you please post 64/72 Truck illustration section 95, page 7 please?
****
 
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