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7.3 Major Powerloss and Shaking

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  #16  
Old 03-05-2017, 07:59 AM
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Checking electrical connectors is relatively easy and free, but if none of that solves the problem then we'll definitely need those codes. Many of the parts stores (Autozone, etc) offer this as a free service, but I don't know if they have have the equipment to read the Ford specific codes on our trucks. If not, if you can get it to a Ford dealer, they can certainly hook it up and read the codes, and it might be worth the $100 to get that done. But for that money be sure to get the complete printout with every code on it, not just some verbiage from the mechanic. From that info, we'll should be able to get you looking in the right direction.

This sounds very similar to when my IDM went out on my '97, I lost half the engine, but it still ran and carried a yard of gravel for my friends porch.
 
  #17  
Old 03-05-2017, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by SaintITC
...if you can get it to a Ford dealer, they can certainly hook it up and read the codes, and it might be worth the $100 to get that done. But for that money be sure to get the complete printout with every code on it, not just some verbiage from the mechanic...
If you have any technical savvy (fluent in smartphone-ese), getting your own OBDII tool is cheaper than hooking up one time at the dealership. OBDII tools link in my signature will get you on your way.
 
  #18  
Old 03-05-2017, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Tugly
If you have any technical savvy (fluent in smartphone-ese), getting your own OBDII tool is cheaper than hooking up one time at the dealership. OBDII tools link in my signature will get you on your way.
So far, that's been one of the best investments I have made for my truck.
 
  #19  
Old 03-05-2017, 06:25 PM
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Another vote for UVCH.

kudos Rich for all the links in your sig!
 
  #20  
Old 03-11-2017, 06:51 PM
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So I had a bunch of water in my fuel. I drained it out and put fresh diesel in it along with some fuel conditioner to get rid of any water residue. I also replaced the fuel filter after I did this. It still knocks bad and has no power. It also blows an excessive amount of white and blue smoke. Egts still won't climb. Could this have possibly grenaded my injectors?
 
  #21  
Old 03-20-2017, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Tugly
That SES light and your symptoms suggests either your ICP sensor is failing or you have a bad UVCH. You can try unplugging the ICP sensor to see if the truck regains power. If that doesn't work, you can click the UVCH link in my signature to find a procedure to test that.
my truck has been exhibiting similar behavior, what is a UVCH? I don't have signatures enabled, get tired of looking at it all while reading. TIA
 
  #22  
Old 03-20-2017, 02:29 PM
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Nevermind I found it- under valve cover harness. I suspect this is the issue with my truck, has been happening back about 6 months very intermittent, usually turn it off and back on again and its fine- no CEL just loss of power and shaking, smoke out the tailpipe.
 
  #23  
Old 03-26-2017, 10:52 AM
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Mileage 220,000
Never had any issues with truck in 8 years, always ran like a champ.

Update to my issue, had it down at my cousins shop and pulled a few codes related to the ICP and exhaust sensor- only with the deep code reader the OBD2 showed nothing. Replaced the ICP and cleaned out the exhaust sensor tube it was fully blocked (did this without removing using a stout wire and gum cutter).

Truck was still exhibiting issues, finally got another code showing issue with Cyl 8. Removed the driver side valve cover, harness looked ok, connector was loose. Upon testing discovered it was showing resistance around .5 so replaced it. Also put new CPS in that I had. Truck now running good but CEL finally came on during roadtest showing P1211. Changed the oil and added stiction additive, will keep driving and see if any more issues come up. Reset the code and CEL has not come back on yet since yesterday. Hope its not injectors right now, although they are probably coming due in the next few years along with the R side UVCH.

 
  #24  
Old 03-27-2017, 06:45 AM
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Big knock and a P1211 - this has all the hallmarks of a loose injector. You can search "Cody test" on the forum, and conduct the test before popping valve covers again.
 
  #25  
Old 03-27-2017, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Tugly
Big knock and a P1211 - this has all the hallmarks of a loose injector. You can search "Cody test" on the forum, and conduct the test before popping valve covers again.
since it was reset the other day it hasn't come back on again and is running fine now. Perhaps the sensors replaced/cleaned finally allowed the computer to properly test what was going on previously? Will check out Cody test thank you.

OBD2 readers are a waste of time unless you want to see the motor rpm, boost etc- they won't read most codes. You need the advanced reader/tester that can perform diagnostic checks.
 
  #26  
Old 03-27-2017, 10:26 AM
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FYI I also did a fresh oil change and added 2 qts of Stiction Eliminator based upon advice of my tech cousin. It was overdue for oil change, seems to run much smoother since I did that. I had also changed the fuel filter during all this.
 
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