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Tips on removing 460?

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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 03:15 AM
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Tips on removing 460?

1985 F-250XL 4WD, 460, T19

I need to replace the clutch so I've decided to pull the engine to do it since I also need to do a head job and it will be easier to work on the engine with it out.
I'll have to cut the Y-pipe at the manifolds since the studs are so rusted there aren't even any threads left (I'm replacing the exhaust manifolds also).

Any gotcha's on pulling a 460?
 
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 05:53 AM
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If the y-pipe is good, I would save it and just cut the studs off with a sawzall. Not much different from pulling any other engine, except it's a little heavier than most.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 07:45 AM
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Don't cut that Y-pipe if it is in good shape.
Aftermarket is lousy.

It is the same as pulling any other engine.
If you're not going to remove the radiator support you might want to connect the hoist and then remove the front wheels to lower the truck.

I have used a *large* engine crane and it's still hairy to have 700# hanging that high.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 03:25 AM
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Yeah, I'll cut the studs if I can.
I was planning on removing the radiator support since my engine hoist won't be able to lift the engine over it.
I have a heavy duty engine stand, so not really worried about the weight.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 03:09 PM
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Remove the rad support. Far easier and safer that way, and a good opportunity to clean up any rust on the rad support and change the mount bushings. You should be able to have it out in a couple hours, faster if you have help.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 06:30 PM
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I need to weld up a crack in the radiator support so it'll easier to clean up and do that with it out anyway. Plus give it a good paint job. It's all rust color now.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2017 | 03:56 AM
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Wow, 6 months later and I finally have been able to get to pulling the engine.

What are the best lifting points? Making brackets to attach to the heads, using the PS pump mounting bracket bolts on the front of the head and diagonally opposite on the rear of the engine?

Amazingly I was able to get the y-pipe to manifold bolts loose. They were so corroded I didn't for a minute think it would be easy. But....
9/16 socket was too small and 5/8 was too big. I tried a 15mm and it went on just enough to not fall off when i let go, so I drove it all the way on with a hammer and my impact wrench spun it off. 6pt impact socket did the trick.
Had to put the socket in my vice to drive out the nut & stud, but that was minor.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2017 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Rovernut
What are the best lifting points?
I normally use a chain from the front of one head to the back of the other, in the large accessory bolt holes. If I have room and patience to install it I'll use a load leveler attached to front and rear of each head.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2017 | 07:04 PM
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I use a lift plate like this:

Amazon Amazon

They're inexpensive and work great on most carbureted V8s.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2017 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by cadunkle
Remove the rad support. Far easier and safer that way, and a good opportunity to clean up any rust on the rad support and change the mount bushings. You should be able to have it out in a couple hours, faster if you have help.
A wise suggestion. Another one is that 460s are hell on exhaust, at least mine was in the F350crew in my sig. I would put in all new pipes when you're in there.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2017 | 04:14 AM
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Originally Posted by rowdyredneck
I use a lift plate like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They're inexpensive and work great on most carbureted V8s.
I thought about one of those, but I decided to go with an engine leveler which I thought would be easier to get tilt with by attaching to the front and back of the heads. I'm having to do this in my driveway which has a bit of slope so I can't have the engine hanging level when I put it back in.

Originally Posted by RenoHuskerDu
A wise suggestion. Another one is that 460s are hell on exhaust, at least mine was in the F350crew in my sig. I would put in all new pipes when you're in there.
Amazingly the Y-Pipe seems to be in good shape. can't really see the mating surface where it connects to the manifolds yet, but they weren't leaking so I'm hoping they're ok.
I thought about installing headers but would want ceramic coated and didn't want to spend that kind of money.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2017 | 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by cadunkle
I normally use a chain from the front of one head to the back of the other, in the large accessory bolt holes. If I have room and patience to install it I'll use a load leveler attached to front and rear of each head.
Are there actually threaded holes in the back of the heads? I can't see, but couldn't feel any.

I tried using one of the 3/8" holed on the top of the intake manifold that the air injection manifold bolts to. Luckily the bolt pulled out while the engine was still over the engine mount frame brackets.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2017 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Rovernut
Are there actually threaded holes in the back of the heads? I can't see, but couldn't feel any.
The same holes you see on the front of one head are on the back of the other. There is no "left" or "right" head, they are the same casting.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2017 | 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
Don't cut that Y-pipe if it is in good shape.
Aftermarket is lousy.

It is the same as pulling any other engine.
If you're not going to remove the radiator support you might want to connect the hoist and then remove the front wheels to lower the truck.

I have used a *large* engine crane and it's still hairy to have 700# hanging that high.
I concur, scary as heck lifting that big hunk of iron that high and trying to roll a generally unwieldy cherry picker. Been there, done that. You might consider just putting rims with no tires on the front so you can roll the truck out from under the engine when you get it raised up. It seems most cherry pickers have swivel casters on all 4 and never go where you want them to.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2017 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by cadunkle
The same holes you see on the front of one head are on the back of the other. There is no "left" or "right" head, they are the same casting.
Thanks, that's what I thought. Guess I'll need to grope my engine some more.
 
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