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I need to replace the clutch so I've decided to pull the engine to do it since I also need to do a head job and it will be easier to work on the engine with it out.
I'll have to cut the Y-pipe at the manifolds since the studs are so rusted there aren't even any threads left (I'm replacing the exhaust manifolds also).
If the y-pipe is good, I would save it and just cut the studs off with a sawzall. Not much different from pulling any other engine, except it's a little heavier than most.
Don't cut that Y-pipe if it is in good shape.
Aftermarket is lousy.
It is the same as pulling any other engine.
If you're not going to remove the radiator support you might want to connect the hoist and then remove the front wheels to lower the truck.
I have used a *large* engine crane and it's still hairy to have 700# hanging that high.
Yeah, I'll cut the studs if I can.
I was planning on removing the radiator support since my engine hoist won't be able to lift the engine over it.
I have a heavy duty engine stand, so not really worried about the weight.
Remove the rad support. Far easier and safer that way, and a good opportunity to clean up any rust on the rad support and change the mount bushings. You should be able to have it out in a couple hours, faster if you have help.
I need to weld up a crack in the radiator support so it'll easier to clean up and do that with it out anyway. Plus give it a good paint job. It's all rust color now.
Wow, 6 months later and I finally have been able to get to pulling the engine.
What are the best lifting points? Making brackets to attach to the heads, using the PS pump mounting bracket bolts on the front of the head and diagonally opposite on the rear of the engine?
Amazingly I was able to get the y-pipe to manifold bolts loose. They were so corroded I didn't for a minute think it would be easy. But....
9/16 socket was too small and 5/8 was too big. I tried a 15mm and it went on just enough to not fall off when i let go, so I drove it all the way on with a hammer and my impact wrench spun it off. 6pt impact socket did the trick.
Had to put the socket in my vice to drive out the nut & stud, but that was minor.
I normally use a chain from the front of one head to the back of the other, in the large accessory bolt holes. If I have room and patience to install it I'll use a load leveler attached to front and rear of each head.
Remove the rad support. Far easier and safer that way, and a good opportunity to clean up any rust on the rad support and change the mount bushings. You should be able to have it out in a couple hours, faster if you have help.
A wise suggestion. Another one is that 460s are hell on exhaust, at least mine was in the F350crew in my sig. I would put in all new pipes when you're in there.
They're inexpensive and work great on most carbureted V8s.
I thought about one of those, but I decided to go with an engine leveler which I thought would be easier to get tilt with by attaching to the front and back of the heads. I'm having to do this in my driveway which has a bit of slope so I can't have the engine hanging level when I put it back in.
Originally Posted by RenoHuskerDu
A wise suggestion. Another one is that 460s are hell on exhaust, at least mine was in the F350crew in my sig. I would put in all new pipes when you're in there.
Amazingly the Y-Pipe seems to be in good shape. can't really see the mating surface where it connects to the manifolds yet, but they weren't leaking so I'm hoping they're ok.
I thought about installing headers but would want ceramic coated and didn't want to spend that kind of money.
I normally use a chain from the front of one head to the back of the other, in the large accessory bolt holes. If I have room and patience to install it I'll use a load leveler attached to front and rear of each head.
Are there actually threaded holes in the back of the heads? I can't see, but couldn't feel any.
I tried using one of the 3/8" holed on the top of the intake manifold that the air injection manifold bolts to. Luckily the bolt pulled out while the engine was still over the engine mount frame brackets.
Don't cut that Y-pipe if it is in good shape.
Aftermarket is lousy.
It is the same as pulling any other engine.
If you're not going to remove the radiator support you might want to connect the hoist and then remove the front wheels to lower the truck.
I have used a *large* engine crane and it's still hairy to have 700# hanging that high.
I concur, scary as heck lifting that big hunk of iron that high and trying to roll a generally unwieldy cherry picker. Been there, done that. You might consider just putting rims with no tires on the front so you can roll the truck out from under the engine when you get it raised up. It seems most cherry pickers have swivel casters on all 4 and never go where you want them to.