1966 F250 Camper Specials and F250's with 7,500 lbs. GVWR have self adjusting brakes. These trucks were also the first to have 12" x 2 1/2" front/rear brakes.

Your 1965 F250 has 12 1/8" x 2" front/rear brakes.

 

I took some better pictures of the interior. My truck does not have the emergency flasher in the panel. Is that correct or has it been removed? Pics include the original rubber floor mat with red flecks made in it. The rubber is now hard and cracked in a few places. No rust in the truck bed. Headliner still in tact. I put the arm rests on it. The seat has had the center upholstery replaced but final on the top and bottom is original. Lastly no cracks in the dash.

 

Thanks. Appreciate the correction.

 

The valve covers are stamped steel and can get distorted from over tightening. Flatten all the sealing surfaces before you apply new gaskets. I like the cork gaskets with a little permatex #2 between the covers and gaskets.

 

Yeah, just keep rubbin' it in.

 

Thanks for the valve cover gasket recommendation. I will be sure to get this type.

 

Very nice interior. When I took my truck out for the first time, I noticed the vents at the kick panels. I opened both of them and took off. Immediately the cab filled with leaves, to the point that it was difficult to see and breathe. It took me a good hour to clean up the cab and the vents, which still had a substantial amount of leaves after flooding the cab.

 

Nice Find! Hard to beat one owner trucks that have been cherished since new. Power steering and power brakes were optional equipment in '66, its just a matter of adding them, and would not take away from the originality of the vehicle. About the wheels and hubcaps, I would definitely look for original period pieces. The character of a vehicle is drastically altered when 80's wheels and caps are installed. I understand if you don't want to deal with the original 2 piece 16" wheels on F 250 Camper Specials, but you can go with the 16" solid wheel that was standard equipment on F 250's. However, the 1966 16" 8 lug wheel will have inner tabs for hubcap retention, not bumps which are very common post 1967. This will take some money and leg work to find, but they are out there. Look at the Mercury 250 build by dank120, he does an outstanding job replicated the look of the 16" lock ring wheel with a 16" solid wheel, by simple adding a gray or silver ring to the outer edge. 1966 F 250 hubcaps were either argent silver with red letters or white with red letters with an 8 3/4" diameter back ring and fit only pre 1967 8 lug "innie wheels". I believe your truck is worth having the right "look". To add to the right look, mirror brackets and heads were gray in 1966, not white.

 

Hi Tripleframe, Thanks for the info and the picture of the original hub caps. I put new tires on my truck today and yes mine is the one piece wheel. The spare tire still has the original split rim. I am going to find a new rim and make them all the same. I found a set of hub caps off a 1972 model which are closer but still not 100% correct.

 

While it was on the rack today I ask the mechanic if I needed the king pins rebuilt. There was about an 1/8 inch of play on the drivers side and none on the passengers side. The rubber bushings are shot so those need to be replaced. He said the rivots had to be ground off and bolts put back to replace the rubber bushings. He is going to give me quote Monday an I will decide if I do it myself or let him. Here are more pics; Hub caps, bushings, spare tire, side tool box that I need a lock for if anybody has one.

 

The stock breather I thought I had found has been sold so I am still looking for one. I have a 2 barrel carburator. If anyone has one.

 

To quote Tripleframe the Mercury build thread is 1965 Mercury M250 by Dank4120

 

I will check it out.

 

I've replaced the radius arm bushings in your photo on my '65 F250 and a '94 F150. You do NOT need to grind off those rivets. Set the truck frame on sturdy blocks and lower the I-beams enough to pull them forward out of the brackets. Might as well do both king pins, repack front wheel bearings, and replace both I-beam bushings at the same time.

 

I'm told by experts that any perceptible play in the kingpins indicates bushing replacement is necessary. Another indicator is the refusal to accept grease. Their opinions, not mine, but I believe they are correct.
Eric