New to the Forum - '73 F100 Ranger XLT
#31
Hello and welcome! I'm in the same boat as you; new here, picked up '73 F100 on Saturday and have her running and trying to take care of all the basics.
I'd probably dump the carb/ it's parts into a can of carb cleaner or maybe rust remover.
I know you said you're on a budget an if I remember right, I don't think Evaporust is cheap. I'm a fan of electrolysis; super cheap way to remove rust from parts. Hit stuff with wire brush, electrolysis it, wire brush and repeat.
If you can handle being intricate and getting your hands dirty a carb rebuild should set you back $20. I found the rebuild kit for my 2100 carb at AutoZone. Mine wasn't that bad so I was able to get away with a can of carb cleaner but depending how the jets look like you might need to soak.
If you or a friend with has an ultrasonic cleaner I'd recommend that. I tried it for the first time on motorcycle carburetor parts with simple green and it was too easy.
Question for those recommending power washing; would you spray a degreaser on dirty parts first? I've always been afraid of power washing an engine once a buddy back in school did that and got water into his ignition wire boots and engine compartments and was unable to start his car.
I'm not expert but it it were me, I think once you have the carburetor operational I'd top up the engine with some fresh oil, pour some gas in the carb and try to start it. Once running let it warm/wake up a bit and then do an oil change. Oh yeah, check your fuel lines and get a few fuel filters handy.
I'd probably dump the carb/ it's parts into a can of carb cleaner or maybe rust remover.
I know you said you're on a budget an if I remember right, I don't think Evaporust is cheap. I'm a fan of electrolysis; super cheap way to remove rust from parts. Hit stuff with wire brush, electrolysis it, wire brush and repeat.
If you can handle being intricate and getting your hands dirty a carb rebuild should set you back $20. I found the rebuild kit for my 2100 carb at AutoZone. Mine wasn't that bad so I was able to get away with a can of carb cleaner but depending how the jets look like you might need to soak.
If you or a friend with has an ultrasonic cleaner I'd recommend that. I tried it for the first time on motorcycle carburetor parts with simple green and it was too easy.
Question for those recommending power washing; would you spray a degreaser on dirty parts first? I've always been afraid of power washing an engine once a buddy back in school did that and got water into his ignition wire boots and engine compartments and was unable to start his car.
I'm not expert but it it were me, I think once you have the carburetor operational I'd top up the engine with some fresh oil, pour some gas in the carb and try to start it. Once running let it warm/wake up a bit and then do an oil change. Oh yeah, check your fuel lines and get a few fuel filters handy.
#32
If I read correctly you so have all 8 spark plugs out?
If so, have you tried turning the engine over by hand, most likely with a socket and breaker bar using the crank shaft. If the engine turns fairly easy a few complete revolutions, then you'd know that the engine isn't locked up. It wouldn't be a bad idea of putting a little light lube like automatic transmission fluid into each cylinder to put a tin coat of something on the cylinder walls.
You mentioned maybe swapping out that long bed for a short bed. That is doable, but the frame for the standard 8' bed is longer, and you will need to move the rear leaf springs and axle forward.
Unk Bob
If so, have you tried turning the engine over by hand, most likely with a socket and breaker bar using the crank shaft. If the engine turns fairly easy a few complete revolutions, then you'd know that the engine isn't locked up. It wouldn't be a bad idea of putting a little light lube like automatic transmission fluid into each cylinder to put a tin coat of something on the cylinder walls.
You mentioned maybe swapping out that long bed for a short bed. That is doable, but the frame for the standard 8' bed is longer, and you will need to move the rear leaf springs and axle forward.
Unk Bob
#33
If I read correctly you so have all 8 spark plugs out?
If so, have you tried turning the engine over by hand, most likely with a socket and breaker bar using the crank shaft. If the engine turns fairly easy a few complete revolutions, then you'd know that the engine isn't locked up. It wouldn't be a bad idea of putting a little light lube like automatic transmission fluid into each cylinder to put a tin coat of something on the cylinder walls.
You mentioned maybe swapping out that long bed for a short bed. That is doable, but the frame for the standard 8' bed is longer, and you will need to move the rear leaf springs and axle forward.
Unk Bob
If so, have you tried turning the engine over by hand, most likely with a socket and breaker bar using the crank shaft. If the engine turns fairly easy a few complete revolutions, then you'd know that the engine isn't locked up. It wouldn't be a bad idea of putting a little light lube like automatic transmission fluid into each cylinder to put a tin coat of something on the cylinder walls.
You mentioned maybe swapping out that long bed for a short bed. That is doable, but the frame for the standard 8' bed is longer, and you will need to move the rear leaf springs and axle forward.
Unk Bob
As for making it a short bed, that will be a long time from now. But, it is something I'd like to do. I hear there is a kit of some sort that will clamp onto the frame and it guides you where to cut the frame, then it aligns everything up so it can be welded back together. I haven't researched it yet, that's only heresay from my boss, who's a Ford fanatic.
#36
#37
Thanks. I'll update my settings. I am in Oklahoma... just outside of Tulsa. I actually have an uncle that lives in Edmond, although we don't get over that way very often.
#38
Carb. Replacement
Is your Carburator a 2 barrel or 4 barrel. I have a brand new 2 barrel I'll sell you on the cheap. Is you motor a 302? I went up to a 4 barrel Holler aluminum duel plane
Looking at my carb options... for you experts, is this the correct Holley carb that I would need. I'm trying to figure out if I should go with a Motocraft 2100, keep it stock, or go with an upgraded aftermarket version. To be honest, I'm not sure if I have a manual or electric choke. I'm guessing manual. I'm not sure when electric chokes became the norm.
Manual Choke - https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/0-4412S
Electric Choke - https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/0-80500
Manual Choke - https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/0-4412S
Electric Choke - https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/0-80500
#39
Currently it's the stock 2 barrel, but depending on what happens when I remove the valve covers and the intake, I may go ahead and upgrade to a 4 barrel. It has the 360 in it. There appears to be some pretty good rust in the intake manifold, but I haven't taken it off yet to see what it looks like. Will a carb that is set up for a 302 work on a 360? I'm not sure what is interchangeable, and what isn't.
#40
Got some time to fiddle with the truck last night, which, leads to more questions. I pulled the valve covers off because I'm trying to remove the intake manifold. I'm just not sure what all needs to be taken out to get the intake off. I know the push rods have to be taken out, and be kept in their respective positions... and the bolts. Is there anything else that I need to take out? Here are a couple of pictures that I got. How bad does this stuff look? I'm going to get a wire brush and some brake cleaner to clean up the crud that is in there.
#42
FE motor
From what I've seen so far. If you are planning on keeping the motor. From this point forward I would just tear it all the way down and send it out to the machine shop. It needs to be completely rebuilt if you want a good motor in your truck. I would get an estimate on a rebuild. For under 4000 dollars you can purchase a new rebuilt 306 motor with 390 hp and almost 400 ft pounds of torque. That's what I would do with the motor you have. Put in a new one. Stop wasting time with this motor.
#44
Rebuild or just clean up?
Got some time to fiddle with the truck last night, which, leads to more questions. I pulled the valve covers off because I'm trying to remove the intake manifold. I'm just not sure what all needs to be taken out to get the intake off. I know the push rods have to be taken out, and be kept in their respective positions... and the bolts. Is there anything else that I need to take out? Here are a couple of pictures that I got. How bad does this stuff look? I'm going to get a wire brush and some brake cleaner to clean up the crud that is in there.
. What are you planning for this motor.if you are just going to attempt to clean it up & run it the way it is. Just pull the rockersame. Clean them really well. Put everything back toget her. New manifold, Carburator. Anything else you want to change. Put a good cleaning oil in it. Run for 45 to 60 minutes at 1000 to 1500 rpm. Drain the oil. Put in a good oil. (Your choice) then just drive it. Check the oil ever thousand miles or so. Make sure it has no metal in the oil or filter.
. I would just take it out & put in a 306 rebuilt crate motor . But, If you're running on a tight budget. Then I get why you are doing it the way you are...
....... Good Luck....
#45
. EagleChief.
. What are you planning for this motor.if you are just going to attempt to clean it up & run it the way it is. Just pull the rockersame. Clean them really well. Put everything back toget her. New manifold, Carburator. Anything else you want to change. Put a good cleaning oil in it. Run for 45 to 60 minutes at 1000 to 1500 rpm. Drain the oil. Put in a good oil. (Your choice) then just drive it. Check the oil ever thousand miles or so. Make sure it has no metal in the oil or filter.
. I would just take it out & put in a 306 rebuilt crate motor . But, If you're running on a tight budget. Then I get why you are doing it the way you are...
....... Good Luck....
. What are you planning for this motor.if you are just going to attempt to clean it up & run it the way it is. Just pull the rockersame. Clean them really well. Put everything back toget her. New manifold, Carburator. Anything else you want to change. Put a good cleaning oil in it. Run for 45 to 60 minutes at 1000 to 1500 rpm. Drain the oil. Put in a good oil. (Your choice) then just drive it. Check the oil ever thousand miles or so. Make sure it has no metal in the oil or filter.
. I would just take it out & put in a 306 rebuilt crate motor . But, If you're running on a tight budget. Then I get why you are doing it the way you are...
....... Good Luck....
We know we're going to have to put money into it, but I'm trying to do it as cheap as I can. We don't have the funds to just drop a new motor into it. So, I will spend a little here, and a little there. Right now, I'm probably looking at an intake and carburetor... if I'm lucky. The whole truck needs a crap-ton of work, engine and body. But, I'm only worrying about one thing at a time. This is my first time doing any of this, so I'm trying to learn as I go. That's why I joined this forum. I just ordered a repair manual and a "how to" book on rebuilding Ford big Block engines.
Thanks for all of the responses and the feedback. I'll keep the updates coming, and the pictures also.